81 BJ42 - I have to bring it home and pass inspection

[subzali]

Is there any primer between the layers that you spotwelded together? How you gonna keep the rust monsters at bay?

Also, does the curved piece that meets the rear floor get welded in, or is it just seam sealed? Looks like a nice opportunity for dirt and grit to get caught under there and start a rust problem too...

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Is there any primer between the layers that you spotwelded together? How you gonna keep the rust monsters at bay?

Also, does the curved piece that meets the rear floor get welded in, or is it just seam sealed? Looks like a nice opportunity for dirt and grit to get caught under there and start a rust problem too...

There is epoxy primer/ sealer between MOST of the metal. I am using a rubber based seam sealer everywhere I can get at. The tub is staying on the frame so I can't get everywhere I'd like to. I am taking the whole truck to the sandblaster to blast the underside of the wheel wells so I can prime and seal BEFORE installing the support brackets and then undercoating. It'll have to do for a few years until the frame off.

The inside corners where the ambulance doors radius meets the floor is only a curve at the rear. The forward end is a sharpish bend that will see seam sealer.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

There is epoxy primer/ sealer between MOST of the metal. I am using a rubber based seam sealer everywhere I can get at. The tub is staying on the frame so I can't get everywhere I'd like to. I am taking the whole truck to the sandblaster to blast the underside of the wheel wells so I can prime and seal BEFORE installing the support brackets and then undercoating. It'll have to do for a few years until the frame off.

The inside corners where the ambulance doors radius meets the floor is only a curve at the rear. The forward end is a sharpish bend that will see seam sealer.

I agree fully, the weld through primer is a good idea, but seam sealing is where its at... All the sealing of joints and panels is and painting to keep out the moisture is what pays off in the end.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Right quarter metalwork is done

 

[Awl_TEQ]

For Cody

Cut rust out
Clean weld area to bare metal
Make patch
Clamp and tack in place
Weld
Grind smooth and dolly flatish
Ready for bondo and block sanding

 

[cody c]

For Cody

Cut rust out
Clean weld area to bare metal
Make patch
Clamp and tack in place
Weld
Grind smooth and dolly flatish
Ready for bondo and block sanding

Cool, I didnt know thats how simply the body panels were connected.

Do you put something like an epoxy primer on the backside of the metal before you weld it? It looks like an area that could be prone to rust.

You must be getting pretty close to paint time, then its off to the out of province inspection I suppose.


I will need to read through this thread a few times for when I go to widen the rear wells on my hilux... One day...

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Cool, I didnt know thats how simply the body panels were connected.

Do you put something like an epoxy primer on the backside of the metal before you weld it? It looks like an area that could be prone to rust.

You must be getting pretty close to paint time, then its off to the out of province inspection I suppose.

I will need to read through this thread a few times for when I go to widen the rear wells on my hilux... One day...

That spot is easy. Others not so much.

Yes.

Bought a gallon of filler and two more tubes of sealer. The guy at Sam's said he'll have to match the color to a sample I provide. He doesn't have the mix on file.

I have some mechanical fixes to do yet. Fuel gauge short, odometer is stuck, front pinion seal, high & hard brake pedal. Maybe a windsheild. All of which are fails on the OOP inspection. Not bad though.

Cody, where can I get 24V bulbs in town? I tried the spots near me with no luck. I've heard the Road King truck stop could have some.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Ok, some tech.

Possible causes for a high and hard brake pedal??

No vacuum? I can hear (and see through the floor!!) the vacuum tank equalizing or perhaps sucking air on shutdown. So I suspect the pump sucks.

I havent poked around it at all yet so give me just a couple possible starting points please.

The brakes do work with a slight pull to the right.

 

[lowenbrau]

That spot is easy. Others not so much.

Yes.

Bought a gallon of filler and two more tubes of sealer. The guy at Sam's said he'll have to match the color to a sample I provide. He doesn't have the mix on file.

I have some mechanical fixes to do yet. Fuel gauge short, odometer is stuck, front pinion seal, high & hard brake pedal. Maybe a windsheild. All of which are fails on the OOP inspection. Not bad though.

Cody, where can I get 24V bulbs in town? I tried the spots near me with no luck. I've heard the Road King truck stop could have some.

The dealer prices on bulbs aren't too bad any more. Gregg Distributors has them too.

 

[cody c]

That spot is easy. Others not so much.

Yes.

Bought a gallon of filler and two more tubes of sealer. The guy at Sam's said he'll have to match the color to a sample I provide. He doesn't have the mix on file.

I have some mechanical fixes to do yet. Fuel gauge short, odometer is stuck, front pinion seal, high & hard brake pedal. Maybe a windsheild. All of which are fails on the OOP inspection. Not bad though.

Cody, where can I get 24V bulbs in town? I tried the spots near me with no luck. I've heard the Road King truck stop could have some.

Not sure about the 24v bulbs, nothing I have is 24 volt.
what bulbs are they specifically?

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Which ones do you need? I have a lot of them hoarded away. Especially the tail/brake ones...

K

 

[crushers]

Greggs distributors is where i used to get mine down off 52nd in the SE ...

 

[Ratpuke]

Awl Tech... I have two sets of 24v light bulbs I picked up from 4Wheel when I was still up N. Want me to bring you a set? Consider it partial repayment for you working on the Lil Hooker?

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Awl Tech... I have two sets of 24v light bulbs I picked up from 4Wheel when I was still up N. Want me to bring you a set? Consider it partial repayment for you working on the Lil Hooker?

Sure, that would be great, I accept your proposal. I planned to order a set from him but was waiting to see what else I might need.

I'm tired of metalwork today so I'm doing some mechanical stuff. I've got all lights working cept for some bad bulbs and I just freed up the odometer. It was just dried factory lube sticking the number wheels to the shaft. I disassembled it all and used some silicone spray and reassembled.

My experience=

once you get the odometer in your hand loosen the two face plate screws in order to get enough room to pull out the drum retaining pin. You could remove the face altogether but I didn't want to mess with the indicator needle.

Then remove the drum by sliding to the left and pulling it out.

Remove the snap ring and brass washer. Now you can slide the wheels off. Mine were so stuck I had to use a mini screw driver to get them started. Also I dribbled some penetrating fluid on to dissolve the "glue".

Note that the intermediate plates are oriented with the little gears at the "top" as you look at the numbers. I first assembled it upside-down before realizing that it was rolling over at 5 instead of 9. Also, the tiny white gears are not fastened on... they will fall off.

It was stuck at 178989km and I added the approximate distance that I traveled. If I was doing a 100% resto I might dial it to zero.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

On to the fuel gauge. My knowledge of a typical fuel gauge is limited to my theory that they work off of electrical resistance. The sender in the tank has a float that mechanically changes the resistance in the circuit as it moves. The guage then is calibrated to move based on what it reads from the sender. Basically a sensitive circuit. Any extra power added would pin the needle high and any grounding or break in the curcuit would pin the needle low.

Given the above theory and my gauge resting on the empty pin regardless of fuel load I have either a break in the circuit or a grounded wire somewhere. The harness behind the cluster looks quite fresh so I started at the sender. Upon removing the cover I was greeted with a fairly corroded looking connection. Could it be that simple? I think it was because after a rub with a wire brush and plugging in the cluster the needle moves.

BUT, it moves full sweep to the high side and I don't think I have THAT much fuel on board.

Help me out here anyone. Give me your thoughts... is this one of those gauges that stays at full for quite a while before moving and then accelerates as it drops??

I'm gonna go dip the tank... Maybe its full...

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Ok, good news. After an 1100km journey with no odometer and no fuel gauge I have arrived at home with a FULL TANK. That's funny!

I last fuelled by throwing in $20 at Cheif Chiniki maybe 70kms ago. I find it funny that after worrying about fuel accross the mountains then getting stuck at the landslide by Banff and the resulting traffic foulups in Banff/ Canmore I had "pushed my luck" to get to the Cheif Chiniki fuel stop. This thing is great on fuel.

Tech note. After dipping the tank I can report there is some sort of "flap" in the fill hose about where the hose meets the tank. Just after breaching the flap mechanism my chunk of extension cord got wet.

In summary, the gauge appears to work and I will have to burn dinosaurs to see how well.

 

[cody c]

I was just thinking, either the resistive component of the float was shorted out (no resistance) or you were full of fuel. One easy way to check that I guess.

I think I actually had the same problem with my 80 the other year.

 

[tmarx]

Help me out here anyone. Give me your thoughts... is this one of those gauges that stays at full for quite a while before moving and then accelerates as it drops??

l...

That is exactly how Olive's gauge moves.Initially it takes ages to start moving and then speeds up but when it gets to empty it slows right down again - It will touch the empty line but still have 10 - 15 L on board

 

[crushers]

i thought most Toyota gauges were like that??

 

[Michael Hanson]

My 60s are like that. I even have fuel when touching the empty. Mike