80 vs 70 series differences (1 Viewer)

[mjosoba]

I haven’t. I’ve been watching the swaps closely though, for awhile. I’m still working on the 4bd1t.

One thing to keep in mind, this is in regards to the 12 valve 6bt. I don’t know if anyone who’s done the 24 valve or CRD’s.

 

[undecided]

I haven’t. I’ve been watching the swaps closely though, for awhile. I’m still working on the 4bd1t.

One thing to keep in mind, this is in regards to the 12 valve 6bt. I don’t know if anyone who’s done the 24 valve or CRD’s.

If I did it I would definitely go 12v. Ok reliable.

 

[SNLC]

A lot of not so good info here regarding 70-series and some good info on 80-series.


I work on diesel non-USCruisers all the time. Parts are not hard to get all all but they do come from overseas. 3-7 days for OEM parts. More is available for the 70’s than the 80’s from Toyota.

Never ever consider a turboed 1HZ vs a 1HDT. The 1HZ was never turboed from Toyota, it is indirect injection vs direct injection. The 1HZ does respond well to a turbo but won’t last. Why even consider something like this when you can get a 1HDFT?

77-series are all leaf springs and it is a JDM only truck. Wheelbase is nearly the same as a 60-series. Don’t consider a PZJ77, painfully slow. The 1HZ is also very lackluster. Very reliable though and runs forever.

Since you will probably import the 77, get the best you can. That is a 1HZ and 5spd, full float rear axle. A/C, factory Elockers and an auto trans can also be had, even a sunroof.

A 77 prepared by me,

My personal Cruiser is an 80-series.

Cheers

 

[undecided]

A lot of not so good info here regarding 70-series and some good info on 80-series.


I work on diesel non-USCruisers all the time. Parts are not hard to get all all but they do come from overseas. 3-7 days for OEM parts. More is available for the 70’s than the 80’s from Toyota.

Never ever consider a turboed 1HZ vs a 1HDT. The 1HZ was never turboed from Toyota, it is indirect injection vs direct injection. The 1HZ does respond well to a turbo but won’t last. Why even consider something like this when you can get a 1HDFT?

77-series are all leaf springs and it is a JDM only truck. Wheelbase is nearly the same as a 60-series. Don’t consider a PZJ77, painfully slow. The 1HZ is also very lackluster. Very reliable though and runs forever.

Since you will probably import the 77, get the best you can. That is a 1HZ and 5spd, full float rear axle. A/C, factory Elockers and an auto trans can also be had, even a sunroof.

A 77 prepared by me,

View attachment 2355380View attachment 2355381View attachment 2355382

My personal Cruiser is an 80-series.

Cheers

I would absolutely not turbo a 1HZ lol turbocharging an engine not meant for a turbo is a recipe for disaster.

in your opinion, purely stock is the 77 better equipped for off-road than the 81?

when it comes to the diesels how does the 1HD compare to the 1HZ in terms of reliability and ease of maintenance? Is the 1HD noticeably more troublesome than the 1HZ? Personally don’t care about parts availability? Just HOW slow is the 1HZ? Lol

and since it was mentioned how does the 1FZ fit in here? Like I mentioned before I just want something that’ll run forever and that I won’t have to fix all the time.

 

[SNLC]

Yeah, you’ll find people saying the A442 is better, and others saying the A343 is. I would happily drive either one. I personally have an A442, and am plenty happy with it. I would not let the deciding factor in a purchase be A442 vs A343.

The 6bt is a heavy engine. Lots of people have swapped to it using the nv4500-HF2AV, less have kept the stock tranny’s. I initially was worried that the front axle would suffer, but that seems to have been an unwarranted worry, as many can attest to.

I get that the Cummins swaps were all the rage ten years ago. The Toyota diesels such as 1HDT were not readily available then. Nowadays I would not even suggest a 1HDT when you can get a 1HDFT. For that matter go 1HDFTE, change the pump to the FT and rock and roll. The 1HDFTE is pretty much the best turbo diesel Toyota ever made.

I got a 105,000 mile within 15psi of top end specs on compression 1HDFT shipped to my shop for a customer for $8500. You can still buy the short block, head and everything else from Toyota too. Or just pulled the trigger on a new partial assembly for about $12k. Costs more than a Cummins but in my opinion far superior of an engine and it fits oh so well in Cruiser engine bays.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I would absolutely not turbo a 1HZ lol turbocharging an engine not meant for a turbo is a recipe for disaster.

in your opinion, purely stock is the 77 better equipped for off-road than the 81?

when it comes to the diesels how does the 1HD compare to the 1HZ in terms of reliability and ease of maintenance? Is the 1HD noticeably more troublesome than the 1HZ? Personally don’t care about parts availability? Just HOW slow is the 1HZ? Lol

and since it was mentioned how does the 1FZ fit in here? Like I mentioned before I just want something that’ll run forever and that I won’t have to fix all the time.

The 80 will have a little more wheel travel and ride a bit better. 77 have very long rear leaves though, about 56” iirc so you can get the flexing pretty good.

I don’t think it is a good comparison leaf springs to coils. Completely different suspension designs.

In an 81 you have better engine choices, 1HDT.

The 1HZ is slow to me and I drive a 1FZ 80. The first couple years of the 1HDT has bottom end bearing issues, you really need to change them every 100,000kms. That was fixed by the mid 90’s but 1995 is also when the 1HDFT came out. On the 1HDT variations the injection pump has an automatic cold start device (ACSD) and when they break it ruins the injection pump. Easy to remove the ACSD. Besides this, the 1HDT platform is bomber and very well built.

Cheers

 

[undecided]

The 80 will have a little more wheel travel and ride a bit better. 77 have very long rear leaves though, about 56” iirc so you can get the flexing pretty good.

I don’t think it is a good comparison leaf springs to coils. Completely different suspension designs.

In an 81 you have better engine choices, 1HDT.

The 1HZ is slow to me and I drive a 1FZ 80. The first couple years of the 1HDT has bottom end bearing issues, you really need to change them every 100,000kms. That was fixed by the mid 90’s but 1995 is also when the 1HDFT came out. On the 1HDT variations the injection pump has an automatic cold start device (ACSD) and when they break it ruins the injection pump. Easy to remove the ACSD. Besides this, the 1HDT platform is bomber and very well built.

Cheers

so what year would you suggest in the 81s? 94 or newer? I really really want a ‘96 because that was the year I was born lol, but I assumed the 1HD-T would be a better option. Would you recommend the 1HDFT over the 1HDT? How do you like the 1FZ vs the diesels?

 

[SNLC]

1HDFT oh soooo smoooth



I am most of the way through installing an FT right now in a 1967 45-series pickup. We are running a GTurbo with 27psi, 250rwhp.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Yes go as new as you can, right now that is a 1995.

Don’t bother with the 1HDT unless you can’t find an 80 with the FT or the deal on the one with the 1HDT is to good to pass up.

Diesels are tons of fun, especially with power upgrades. Me personally I am budget minded so in my 95 I went all new 1FZ vs an engine swap. It’s just cheaper, easier and plug and play. I would take an FT 80 any day though, absolutely! The 77 with an FT I might even take over that for the cool factor. You can make a leaf spring truck super nice if you know what you are doing.

Cheers

 

[undecided]

1HDFT oh soooo smoooth



I am most of the way through installing an FT right now in a 1967 45-series pickup. We are running a GTurbo with 27psi, 250rwhp.

View attachment 2355432

Cheers

Im gonna try my hardest to get

Yes go as new as you can, right now that is a 1995.

Don’t bother with the 1HDT unless you can’t find an 80 with the FT or the deal on the one with the 1HDT is to good to pass up.

Diesels are tons of fun, especially with power upgrades. Me personally I am budget minded so in my 95 I went all new 1FZ vs an engine swap. It’s just cheaper, easier and plug and play. I would take an FT 80 any day though, absolutely! The 77 with an FT I might even take over that for the cool factor. You can make a leaf spring truck super nice if you know what you are doing.

Cheers

I’m gonna shoot for a 96, I’ve already talked to an importer and told them as soon as they can get one next year I’d be interested. It’ll be a year before I can afford it anyway lol

 

[SNLC]

In my opinion worth the wait for the 96.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Ya know nearly a better plan is to get a USA spec 80 now. Use it and build the FT engine up over time and as you have the $$$. Like I say, you can get a new short block, head and everything from Toyota still. So you can build a brand new engine in your garage. Get all the parts needed over time and then swap it all in. Downtime will be a minimum then and you don’t end up with a RHD Cruiser not to mention resale on a swapped FT 80 is high high.

Cheers

 

[undecided]

Ya know nearly a better plan is to get a USA spec 80 now. Use it and build the FT engine up over time and as you have the $$$. Like I say, you can get a new short block, head and everything from Toyota still. So you can build a brand new engine in your garage. Get all the parts needed over time and then swap it all in. Downtime will be a minimum then and you don’t end up with a RHD Cruiser not to mention resale on a swapped FT 80 is high high.

Cheers

eh I’ll never sale it lol but that’s actually not a terrible idea because I’d have basically a brand new engine lol. Aside from the engine all the other parts are basically identical yeah?

I could even get a LX450 and have something pretty nifty

 

[Broski]

Are you familiar with diesel engines ? can you do your own work, if not it well be harder to find someone to work on the diesel

 

[undecided]

Are you familiar with diesel engines ? can you do your own work, if not it well be harder to find someone to work on the diesel

Ive worked on some, but never worked on a Toyota diesel so im not sure how different it’ll be. I know a good mechanic who can do the work but I really would like to learn to do it all myself just in case.

I still haven’t settled completely on a diesel but it is what I want mostly for the reliability but I also love diesels.

 

[Broski]

Being able to work on any of these old Regs is a big plus especially out on the trail or in a bug out situation. and can save you a ton of cash.
I'd prefer a diesel my self but to many hoops to make it legal in calif.

 

[scottryana]

I am not sure where you are getting the idea that the diesels are hugely more reliable than the gas engines. Like I said earlier, if you start with a new diesel or a new gas engines, and maintain both they should both be 300-500,000 mile engines. Both can easily be rebuilt once or twice. You could have either for 1,000,000 miles and at 12,000mi/yr that is 40 years before your first rebuild.

The only real benefit of diesel is longer range per fill up, and perhaps deep water crossings which is important driving across the wilds of Australia but much less important in North America. lol.

This is just a matter of what you think is cool and you will have to let your pocketbook decide. A new partial diesel assembly according to SNLC is ~$12k. A new gas long block is ~$7k.

 

[undecided]

Being able to work on any of these old Regs is a big plus especially out on the trail or in a bug out situation. and can save you a ton of cash.
I'd prefer a diesel my self but to many hoops to make it legal in calif.

Yeah it’s a must for me to learn either vehicle top to bottom for buggin out or if I get stuck on a trail somewhere. Saving money is the icing on the cake tho.

but yeah Californias laws are tough on anything fun I’ve heard imports were a real pain there

 

[undecided]

I am not sure where you are getting the idea that the diesels are hugely more reliable than the gas engines. Like I said earlier, if you start with a new diesel or a new gas engines, and maintain both they should both be 300-500,000 mile engines. Both can easily be rebuilt once or twice. You could have either for 1,000,000 miles and at 12,000mi/yr that is 40 years before your first rebuild.

The only real benefit of diesel is longer range per fill up, and perhaps deep water crossings which is important driving across the wilds of Australia but much less important in North America. lol.

This is just a matter of what you think is cool and you will have to let your pocketbook decide. A new partial diesel assembly according to SNLC is ~$12k. A new gas long block is ~$7k.

it doesn’t seem to be a huge difference but to me even a slight edge is enough for me. Just in general diesels seem to have more life, but from what I’ve researched even with the yotas they have a moderate edge. I doubt I’ll ever drive it enough to notice the difference and for most people it truly doesn’t matter but for what I’m wanting I take every scenario into account and I just want that confidence that comes with a diesel. Doesn’t seem to be a huge difference but I like the bit extra reliability and durability and also having a diesel is just kinda cool as well.

the fuel economy is something I never really thought about because I’m used to driving big SUVs getting 15 mpg but when I think about taking it on a trail or being somewhere far away from a gas station, the fuel economy is a nice added benefit.

 

[Broski]

but yeah Californias laws are tough on anything fun I’ve heard imports were a real pain there
[/QUOTE]
I new that was coming, it's the price you pay to live in paradise.