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Just an FYI, I talked to my insurance rep when I was doing my lift and brought up the LSPV and ABS bypass. He said absolutely not because if there is an accident and further investigation I will be fxxxed. So I stuck with dropping the LSPV down instead of removing it. Middle America may handle it differently than CA :meh:
 
Just an FYI, I talked to my insurance rep when I was doing my lift and brought up the LSPV and ABS bypass. He said absolutely not because if there is an accident and further investigation I will be fxxxed. So I stuck with dropping the LSPV down instead of removing it. Middle America may handle it differently than CA :meh:

I've heard that before from other people but I just don't get it. Is it illegal to operate a car without ABS? I understand it's a modification that affects braking but turbochargers and superchargers affect acceleration. If you fail to stop in time and kill somebody you're gonna be at fault regardless of whether or not you modified the braking system. Does it go from manslaughter to murder?
 
Tampering with a vehicles safety device. He equated it to the same as taking out your seatbelts and having your passenger get ejected out the windshield. It convinced me enough to reconsider. The lift, according to him, was not an issue. :meh:

I've heard that before from other people but I just don't get it. Is it illegal to operate a car without ABS? I understand it's a modification that affects braking but turbochargers and superchargers affect acceleration. If you fail to stop in time and kill somebody you're gonna be at fault regardless of whether or not you modified the braking system. Does it go from manslaughter to murder?
 
Tampering with a vehicles safety device. He equated it to the same as taking out your seatbelts and having your passenger get ejected out the windshield. It convinced me enough to reconsider. The lift, according to him, was not an issue. :meh:

Makes sense I guess - considering our litigious society these days. But my reason for not deleting ABS yet is I'm not sure I can handle the truck in an emergency braking situation. But then again, if ABS is causing soft spongy brakes, what's more of a risk? Not having ABS or inadequate brakes on a big heavy SUV due to unmaintained ABS systems?
 
Chris's wife loves him

She does, but her pleas of mercy are commonplace, usually three quarters the way through a 1000k marathon.

there is some special service tool needed that connects in and makes the ABS pulse, thus forcing the air/fluid out when you are bleeding the brakes.

It's a wiring harness, that not even the local dealer has, that plugs into the ABS motor (pump, whatever) and engages, but I was under the impression it didn't pulse, but allowed for checking resistance only, to see if "bad".

Betting money that's the issue and betting money it was after an exit at Clayton where I became so vertical, that I lost all brakes....this after losing power steering.

Just ditch it and the LSPV and be done

Here's my question on the LSPV.

If it's raised at the arm, it effectively engages the rear brakes at 100%, right?

Even that does nothing to improve stopping, noted during an on lift test where the LSPV was opened and brakes applied ( no load ).

The front was completely stopped long before the rear showed signs of slowing and at an estimated. 3/4 brake pedal travel.

Has to be something else, too.

You don't need a " non US" MC, just one from a FJ80. Also no wires in the dash need cutting. The ABS bulb is removable.

That thought resulted from reading ten queries a week on an Australian FB page, where they're constantly asking what the ABS light on the dash indicates, which can mean same as here, being low brake fluid.

One went on to describe what ABS was on an 80 and why it sucked, so drew the conclusion that they don't have ABS, but reserve the function of "low fluid" lights.


You ought to go ahead and P/T the truck as well!

Meh, just need to find a way to get this through customs legally, then nestle on a US donor chassis and convert to LHD.

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Not like I don't have enough friggin' projects, already.
 
The problem with the on lift test is that it is exactly the opposite of having a load, it would basically shutoff the rear braking I would think. These systems are great and all engineered to work well on a stock truck but become nightmares to test and trouble shoot on modified trucks. Short of finding a braking pad to test brake function like they do on the DC safety test I am not sure how you can actually test braking function when at proper ride and load height. But if you do put it back on the lift, I would unbolt the arm from the axle and play around with lifting it and braking and seeing if you can actually find a spot where the brakes do work. Mark that and then when the truck is back on the ground adjust your arm to match.
 
Here's my question on the LSPV.

If it's raised at the arm, it effectively engages the rear brakes at 100%, right?

Is that how it's designed though? I thought the point of a proportioning valve was to never have the brakes at 50/50 to avoid losing the rear end in hard braking. And the point of a load sensing proportioning valve was to keep that brake bias constant based on how much weight you have in the back of the truck. Unless I'm misunderstanding it...

You should just bypass the ABS while leaving the LSPV as a test. Quick and simple to do with an extra tee from a junkyard. But hooking it all back up and bleeding after that if you decide to keep ABS...not sure how that might go.
 
@scottryana

Essentially what was done, realizing the method was flawed (actually, the first time was sort of a "hey, put it in gear, hit the brakes, just to see...while your in there).

Have so many more issues than spongy pedal or braking proportion, such as the ass end's elevation in braking tests.....but polishing the turd begins with this.

Is that how it's designed though?

As far as I know, but designed for wheel/tire combos 1/3 the weight, smaller diameter, and mass center much closer to the axles.

Have a call into a local Toy only shop that's rumored to have the harness. Shouldn't cost much to have them test/bleed, I wouldn't imagine, so should be able to determine if it is, for a fact, the motor.
 
Two years in to the date and....

Pissed away a small fortune on suspension that's still not complete and don't care for.

Still no sway bar accommodations.

Still primered white on the lower half.

Still haven't replaced sunroof, window seals, sills, stripping that's all in a box in the garage.

Still no rear body, frame, tube work.

Guess there's no fear of a for sale sign anytime soon
 
Congrats to you and yours. Second year anniversary gift is cotton... Maybe you can get a nice car cover made for the driveway ornament?
 
Two years in to the date and....

Pissed away a small fortune on suspension that's still not complete and don't care for.

Still no sway bar accommodations.

Still primered white on the lower half.

Still haven't replaced sunroof, window seals, sills, stripping that's all in a box in the garage.

Still no rear body, frame, tube work.

Guess there's no fear of a for sale sign anytime soon

So, essentially, you're saying it's time to turn it into a beater? :)
 
Maybe you can get a nice car cover made for the driveway ornament?

Pshaw....

Far from a driveway ornament the last month and a half so cotton for my ears ( weather stripping and door seals still in box.) or drawers since I've temporarily succumbed to a defeatist mentality.

Had lofty ambitions of selling the FJC this spring, replacing it's PT DD function with the '76 Pig.

In an effort to keep miles below 125k on FJC have driven the 80 a lot, so seeing a lot more drive time than 8-9
mpg is logical for.

Considering this the current state of the '76, looks like the FJC is safe from culling this season.

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So, essentially, you're saying it's time to turn it into a beater?

Ha.

Was thinking more along the lines of getting the sawzall out and going to town on the lower rear quarters, in hopes it'll spark a completion effort.

Its one of those "need to do this, before deciding this, so this can be completed" algorithmic processes, you know?

What do you mean by sway bar accommodations? Disconnects?

A rear frame mounted bar, one that actually mitigates body roll.

Have been thinking of raising the upper coil/shock to lower, without negating the only benefit of the coil, being it's flexiness and what's held up progress there, then cut and turn to correct caster, since front driveline angle is "fixed" with the funky shaft.

Either that, or scrap it all and start over.

Since Boogerweldz has bought an 80 again, watching what results from his and 4WUs efforts...

Until it drives as good as it wheels, it's a fail, by my barometer.
 
well ill take one for the team and trade you my slee 4" coils for you horrible ozzie coils that way your at least happy with how it sits ;)!
 

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