Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Looking for front and rear housings only.
No thirds, birfs, axles, just the housings.

Will take front over both, any day.

Posting WTB soon, but hoping someone may have laying around.

Also, since tearing the doors apart, again, be interested in knowing what pre packaged pod panels ( or whatever they're called ) are available that would allow for sons sound improvement.
 
Will "bedding" now require new pads?

nope

just search for bedding brakes here on MUD and go out and do it - brake down from 50 mph to 10mph HARD several times (about 6-10x) until it really stinks (and you can smell it with windows closed, believe me) - drive some more without really stopping much to let the brakes naturally cool down . . . like some 15-20 minutes or so - some lonely country road would be best
 
Last edited:
just search for bedding brakes here on MUD and go out and do it

Sounds like I need to let my wife drive it. Normal operation. Hahahaha.

That's a wife specific joke, not a make vs. female driver statement, by the way.

Going to swap master, lines, move the front hard lines on the housing, bleed, then get it on. Plenty of lonely county roads here to perform.

Thanks, Claudia.
 
And yes, Claudia drove the '80 when we did that... :eek:

Bahahaha. Quoted before deleted.

Tearing the DS FJC Long Travel axle down today and replacing CVs and wheel bearings today, so it can realign tomorrow. (Hard braking session left with off centered wheel and alignment issues).

Replacing 80 master cylinder tomorrow, I hope, and going through the process of bleeding and bedding.

Everything else save the brake pedal is new, so hopefully the MC was the culprit and replacing/bleeding/bedding is the fix.
 
Odd. Took to redo the hardline on the axle and noticed at full left lock the tie rod hits the diff.



image-3464102599.jpg

image-3464102599.jpg
 
After all that, still have Sponge Brake Slo-Stop.

Bled, bedded, and, if anything, worse.

Noticing the ass end jumping up, but can't say that's a change since I've not slammed on the brakes to that degree before.

Keep bleeding?
 
Need a tourniquet for the cash gash.

Going to get 4 or 5 quarts of fluid and try to do tomorrow morning, hoping the master hasn't gulped in air.

Have a feeling Claudia's gonna be a little surprised if and when she gets back around to this thread. Hahaha.
 
:lol:

I assume you did bleed the LSPV every time in between each caliper ?
 
She doesn't do the stuff under the truck... I'm the one who gets to crawl around under there.
I was surprised how many times in the bleeding process there was yet another little air bubble coming out at the LSPV when the calipers were just yielding fluid. That thing is just as bad as the prop valve on my Chevy.
 
She doesn't do the stuff under the truck... I'm the one who gets to crawl around under there.

I edited out "y'all" for "you", being PC and all.

The work has been ongoing, having replaced pads, rotors, calipers, and LSPV last year at ~110k (at 112k now) and bled PS rear, DS rear, PS front, DS front, LSPV.

It was the original pads and fluid, so went trough 4-5 quarts until it bled clean, recall LSPV line being nastiest and bubbliest.

I hadn't really considered bleeding the LSPV in between each caliper, but that might make sense, if its full of air, could be sucking it back into the other lines.

Have you figured this out to be the case?

Another quandary has been wether to raise or lower the LSPV to engage rears quicker. I know I lowered it at the frame when I lifted, but based on my means of interpreting the mechanics, I don't see how raising it can affect enough to actually change the proportioning.
 
Last edited:
LandCruiserPhil had something about the LSPV a while back - we haven't done anything to ours
 
Saw Rick (LandTank) suggest a rear axle, LSPV, front axle, LSPV x 2 procedure, then found this, which can't believe it hasn't been a more commonly accepted procedure, if it works.

Recently I removed the front calipers to replace the brake lines. Upon assembly and attempting to bleed the brakes I was met with constant let down every test drive with air in the system. I pumped about 3-4L of brake fluid using every bleeding trick in the handbook and must have bled each caliper 10 times minimum, all without success. I couldn't believe it as I'd bled these brake, and other vehicles, several times before without issue.

See, the main problem is that air bubbles can remain trapped or hidden in the system and even if you pump the pedal 20 times, air can still be trapped. And with the one man bleeders, it doesn't take much for the res to need emptying. I then found myself in the hardware store and happened to see a heap of plastic tube. One particular tube was 5mm dia and 10m long. It was then a light bulb went off in my head, so I bought it and headed home.

I then slid one end of the tube over the furthest rear caliper nipple and routed the hose up to the bake fluid res. Leaving a bit of slack, I then cut the excess tube off. The cut end was then inserted into the brake fluid and kept in position with a weight. I then undid the caliper nipple and began pumping the brakes.

It didn't take long for the brake fluid to begin pumping back into the res and at this point I stopped to top up the res to make up for the short fall of fluid in the tube - it wasn't much but just good practice. A few more pumps later and a 3 large air bubbles could be seen working their way out of the system. The bubbles simply pumped into the brake fluid res and burped themselves to atmosphere without introducing any more air bubbles to the system.

Once satisfied the caliper was sufficiently bled, I closed the nipple, removed the tube and then repeated this on the remaining calipers as per the directs shown in the FSM. I reckon I pumped the pedal about 20-30 times for each caliper and managed to get anything from only a few very small bubbles, up to larger bubbles. I also noted there was no consistency, as in the bubbles could be 1-3m apart but they kept on comming.

I now have the best brake pedal I've ever had and this bit of hose is now permanently part of my brake kit.

I recommend this to anyone who is having issues bleeding brakes and just can't get a good pedal for love nor money. Of course, it's a good idea to make sure your brake system is fully flushed with fresh, clean fluid before doing this method - the last thing you want is to be recirculating old fluid through the system.

I would rate this exercise as :banana:

Best of luck and happy stopping:cheers:

Endless bleeding.
 
Saw Rick (LandTank) suggest a rear axle, LSPV, front axle, LSPV x 2 procedure, then found this, which can't believe it hasn't been a more commonly accepted procedure, if it works.

Endless bleeding.

it works much better with two people - you will get there :cheers:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom