Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (14 Viewers)

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Delancy said:
What? What? What? Cause all I do is want, want, want!!!

For whatever reason the picture you posted of the "shortened" 80 didn't come up when quoted.

Paint job turned out real nice, love the de-blinged look.
 
This one?

Do I ever want this.


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Call it an FJC 80. Hahaha.
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bhmmapping said:
I can't believe you painted those. Awesome!

Makes it a lot easier to maintain. Use a rattle can Rustoleum Flat Black that can be bought anywhere, so during routine maintenance can spray whatever needs. Everything will see some flat black, eventually.

Went to great lengths to de-bling all components on the FJC, most that came in PC and custom anodizing, and learned its easier to spray whatever color it comes in whatever coating form, with a rattle can, because all coatings fail.

One of the original reasons for the move from Kings was their reluctance to produce in anything but blue.
 
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Front speaker bs is wearing me out. I've given up finding anything to go behind grille, which means the efforts on the piss ant rears are probably wasted.

Way too much time spent on this, I agree.

6.5" CDT Audio speakers fit behind the stock grill. With the tweets and crossovers they sound great.
 
SHREDwagon said:
6.5" CDT Audio speakers fit behind the stock grill. With the tweets and crossovers they sound great.

I'm going against all ingrained wants and considering surface mounting a true 6.5".

After reading through Lou's thread, I know a true system is in the future, and the door panels will be reworked, anyway.

A 6.5" RF will fit surface mounted, no problem. The grille will need painted. Trying to find Lou's recommended paint to match the brown, now.
 
Pioneers I bought have found a new home in Blink's 80. Can't return since I cut the tabs, but welcomed by Mo, since he doesn't have any fronts anyway. Haha.

Glad someone can use.
 
I will be so happy to never touch 12" black caulk again.

The OE door plastics suck. They probably installed great, in a controlled environment, but Lou's visqueen method is a whole lot easier.

May be taking the PS front door apart and replacing with a sheet, trashing the OE one that's in there now.

If anyone needs a front door plastic, for whatever reason, up for grabs. I'm not using.
 
Not crazy about this, at all, but they do sound decent. Well, at least the PS does.



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Once painted, maybe they'll not be an eyesore.

Lou,
I'll take both front and rear pod panels. Hahaha.

Chris
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Luke111 said:
Those look great....if you haven't found it yet ... here's what you seek.

Lou.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

Just haven't found in the store.

I'm fighting the urge to skip straight to pods and a sub.

Thanks for posting, though. Should be a sticky item.
 
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OME Black Label


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Hope you don't like yellow, Rob.

No, I don't have a shock dyno, but the valving feels sketchy compared to other shocks, and I'm surprised that they're chosen over 2.5s, considering the weight of the platform.

Hopefully, the replacements won't take long to produce.
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Delancy said:
Just haven't found in the store.

I'm fighting the urge to skip straight to pods and a sub.

Thanks for posting, though. Should be a sticky item.

I ordered it online .... Only took a few days to arrive. It comes in handy for interior touch up .. Just checked... Amazon's got it!!

Lou

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
So the simple process of swapping brake lines has impeded the lift install, and I about to boil.

Hit all components (keep in mind, truck isn't rusty) with PB yesterday, and can't get the first caliper line loose, for love nor money.

Can I heat the fittings? Other tricks? Concerned I'm going to bend the hard line by continuing further.
 
So the simple process of swapping brake lines has impeded the lift install, and I about to boil.

Hit all components (keep in mind, truck isn't rusty) with PB yesterday, and can't get the first caliper line loose, for love nor money.

Can I heat the fittings? Other tricks? Concerned I'm going to bend the hard line by continuing further.

Can't get it loose from the caliper? Or can't get it loose from the connection at the axle?

I don't recall having any issues with mine, but I don't see why you couldn't put a little heat to it. Don't go crazy with it, and use a good set of flare wrenches. If it still rounds off, get some vice grips on it.

At least the weather is cooler!

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
tim.korn.99 said:
Can't get it loose from the caliper? Or can't get it loose from the connection at the axle?

Any and all. These have been tinkered with, before.

My assumption, but the POs mechanics didn't know the proper bleeding procedure, which explains the sponge, but they also over tightened at the rear frame and it leaks.

Explains the loss of brake fluid that I've known about having to get around to.

So my purchased recent axle and brakes has resulted into worse headaches.

She's been marinating in PB Blaster for 24hours, so hopefully it's tenderized.

tim.korn.99 said:
At least the weather is cooler!

Amen. For two days in a row, we've experienced this weird phenomena where water falls from the sky, too.

Blink said:
I've got flare wrenches if you need to borrow a set.

Thanks, Mo. I'm heading to Northern Tool once they open for decent jack stands, new flare wrenches, now a new torque wrench (mine must be jacked, since I snapped a head off a bead locker bolt, set at 20ft/lbs. basic testing of at 10lbs on the FJ and I could shake the vehicle, so it's now trash) and anything else I can find.

I've tried for several weeks to get time on a lift, to no avail, and I've got to get this done, so driveway it is.

Question.

On the Superflex arms, wouldn't it make better sense to attach at the axle, then manipulate to the frame?

Can't see why it's suggested (no detailed instructions) to attach at the frame. Seems a nightmare to twist the axle, with all the lines on, to line up to the arms.
 
A word of caution with brake line fittings. Flare nut wrenches (especially cheap ones including Crafstman) will spread and strip your brake lines. In my shop I only use Snap On Flank Drive Plus wrenches on brake lines and have had massive success with them over flare nut wrenches. Also heat is a must to get stubborn ones to come loose but be careful as it is possible for the brake fluid to boil and explode the rubber line which is quite scary and dangerous. This has only happened once in the 5 years I have been working in a shop though and was likely due to too much heat. Sometimes it doesn't take much. Finally if worst comes to worst and the nut strips, or even starts to strip, go straight to a pair of locking vise grips while you still have something to clamp to. Hope this you out.
 

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