Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (1 Viewer)

[Delancy]

Rebuilt PS gearbox from scotia.









Rebuilt with 105 shaft and a warranty, I believe.

Swapped the box from acertyrx and the 105 shaft from Beno for one scotia had on the shelf.

Textbook transaction. Thanks, Patrick.

TimKorn and StainlessDoc were sent the unused PS box rebuild kit as the down on the OBA brackets. Looking forward to, as well.

 

[85badger]

Wow, Chris!! I've been MIA on here for awhile but thought I'd see if you'd found anything yet...guess so, I just read through 9 pages of progress! Is this the one from MO? FYI, my short sickness of wanting to sell mine has resulted in getting the rear locker fixed and a 4x4labs DIY rear bumper kit on the way, so some progress going on here too! Headed to Colorado at the end of July to enjoy it once again! I'll keep tabs on your progress, like Onur said, one thing at a time. It can get overwhelming do too much at the same time.

 

[Delancy]

It's the MO 450. After having had my hands on it for a couple months, I realize I overpaid by $1,500-$2k and that de-flaring an 80 makes a whole lot more sense. Haha.

To validate Fireguy's, and many others advice, I'd probably suggest ARBs, too, of the distance it takes these to lock is normal. (tearing into next, I hope)

Love it, and wouldn't trade the money for anything, since we're "friendly", so to speak.

Glad you're reinvigorated. Envious of the trip, for sure. My sort of planned trip to Ouray appears to be a no-go, due to business. Hopefully a Superlift trip will be forthcoming once I get the axles swapped on the FJC.

Need to get something off road to remind me why the time, effort, and money is worth it.

 

[Delancy]

Asking opinions

Spoke with a local body shop about a few items, and have definitive pricing/options I'm mulling over, so here goes.

1. Cut and roll outer front and rear outer fenders ~$540

2. Weld 162 holes and fill, primer ready $780

3. Sunroof delete ~$1k

4. Raising headliner with new, molded ~priceless.
Modifying the existing to disguise the sunroof ~$700 (with a little for a custom console)

All above based on the interior being stripped and they work on in between other jobs.

Won't touch it otherwise, but I have the option to pull what I can and bring in, so I can continue making progress on all else.

I've asked the TLC deity to grant me the serenity to accept the work I cannot do (within a reasonable time frame) the courage/skills to do the work I can, and the wisdom to know the difference, with money to fund.

All points to me NOT doing this.

Why the trouble to weld?

Because I'm going to paint OE white, and don't want it to look like any of the work was ever done.

 

[mickeyt]

Let them do it and get it done right. Don't buy a few dinnner etc and it's a break even for ya!!!

 

[Delancy]

Agreed. Have a couple of options to cut down on time. Hoping they come through.

May keep the sunroof, mickeyt. Not what I want to do, but can't find a uncut liner, and I don't think it's worth the effort/money by doing it right and swapping roof skin, custom molded liner.

Scraps the overhead console, which sucks, but looking at reworking the center console for more functionality.

 

[Delancy]

Hour of free time, so stripped what I could in preparation to weld the 162 holes Thursday.






Know why the Lexus quality sound had suffered.






And trying to figure out how to, or of it needs to/would be a potential future issue not to remove the OE trailer light harness.





Can unplug the pinned lead, easy enough, but should it be removed?

Looks like a mess.

 

[BlackLS1]

you still have that hitch right?

 

[Delancy]

you still have that hitch right?

Yes, and your address. My apologies. I forgot, about shipping, in all honesty.

Forefront, now.

 

[Delancy]

Also have a wiring harness, if anyone has any input on how to delete.

 

[Delancy]

This sucks.






If anyone values my opinion, if you don't like the LX cladding, buy an LC.

 

[Delancy]

Does this look like the correct cut line for front?



As far as it'll go in the rear. Is the 1" worth the hassle?

 

[Delancy]

Any creative inner fender storage solutions I've overlooked for this area?





Third row is abandoned and had considered laying spare flat, storage on both sides, and a top in line with the bottom of the rear glass.

Looking for off the shelf, at this point, since time is running short.


Stripped and ready for deadener, thanks to the helper.

 

[Delancy]

For the annals.

Nice packing, Baz. Owe you some zip ties. Haha






Sure it'll be sacrilege, but will be de-blinging with matte black.





4" Flexi's.





Now for shock travel determination.

 

[TheBigBoy]

What size tires you going to run?

 

[Delancy]

What size tires you going to run?

345/75/16 on the OEs at this point. BFG KM2s, so realistically a little less than a 36".

 

[Delancy]

A synopsis, to save a boring read.

345/75/16 KM2s on the stock wheels

Super flex up front with the 4" light Flexi's.

LandTank Lowers in the rear with 4" light Flexi's.

No front sway (for now). 1" rear sway, aft mounted.

5.29s.

Here's where I'm at on shocks:

Front shock dimensions base of pin to base of pin

4" Front coil free length 24.4094" (620mm)

Suggested shock travel
29.9212" extended (760mm)
18.1102" compressed (460mm)

Rear shock dimensions from base of pin to center of eye

4" Rear Coil Free length 23.0314" (585mm)

Suggested shock travel
29.1338" extended (740mm)
17.3238" compressed (440mm)

Planning on Radflo's. In discussions with Glenn, the shock travel numbers above are more than specified for a TJM 7" lift, so its been advised to get all bolted up, mount tires, then cycle.

 

[TheBigBoy]

Ok. Rear. With 36's. Your wheels are going to be the restricting factor, but not by too much. Forget about open lengths, the compression length is what governs your open length. Rear shocks, You want from middle of pin to middle of eye is 490mm. You will need to extend bumstops by 5.5". Some modifying of mudflap area behind wheel is required. Unless you shorten control arm lengths.

Your front doesnt really matter much. You wont have the travel to even max out 10" shocks NORMALLY. But you have superflex arms now. Shock compression (pin to pin) for the front will be 535mm. All the pin ends can have rubber stop cut down or extended to fine tune. But those measurements will be extremely close. Extend bumstops in front if going to jump it. Otherwise dont worry about it, it will restrict your amount of wheel travel (compression) as shocks are further in than coils/bumpstops.

Hope that helps you out.

 

[Delancy]

Some modifying of mudflap area behind wheel is required.

Planning to cut 1" of the rear fender lip out. I'm off measurements (calculations, per say) though, because I figured a 2" drop.

Your front doesnt really matter much. You wont have the travel to even max out 10" shocks NORMALLY. But you have superflex arms now. Shock compression (pin to pin) for the front will be 535mm. All the pin ends can have rubber stop cut down or extended to fine tune. But those measurements will be extremely close. Extend bumstops in front if going to jump it. Otherwise dont worry about it, it will restrict your amount of wheel travel (compression) as shocks are further in than coils/bumpstops.

So that I'm understanding, are you saying I'll hit the front bumps in the stock location, before I cram a tire in a fender?

Was opening up front by 3" to gain up travel, but based on my understanding of your bump stop placement, I'm not gaining enough to warrant?

 

[TheBigBoy]

If you extend and set up your front bumpstops to hit before your shocks do when jumping. Under articulation the bumpstop will restrict compression travel holding it away from correct shock compression length. Unless you get shocks that are 2" shorter than what you need. But down travel is then restricted.

If your talking about cutting wheel wells (i can see you already removed flares). You dont need to. The only trimming will be like this.