Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Delancy
- Start date
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The anti-rock is not hard to install given the fact that you don't really appear afraid to try anything on your rig.
also, the rear of the 80 offers a surprising amount of room aft of the rear axle once that tire is out of the way.
also, the rear of the 80 offers a surprising amount of room aft of the rear axle once that tire is out of the way.
Is this addressed at me? Or delancy?
Ive got something much better in the works than an anti-rock. Just have to get off my lazy ass and complete it.
Anyone really, mostly Delancy though since it is his thread and he seems to like the idea of the Anti-rock setup.
- Thread starter
- #205
Slowerthanu said:
I agree.
Slowerthanu said:
What's there to be afraid of?
Slowerthanu said:
Not as much area to attach the axle mount to, considering the ebrake, wheels sensors, and brake lines.
To clear the panhard mount, in the distance between the frame rail and a stuffed tire will be tricky, maybe impossible without spacers. (considering OE wheel BS and 345/75s).
Other concern is handling characteristics with the SA front, versus the IFS which is all I have experience with.
Until the coils go in, it's guesstimating, but having one sitting beside the 450 makes it a little easier to visualize, especially since the frame rails and axle placement are similar distances.
I dont get it. 
How good are the anti-rocks really? If it allows articulation then its not doing a very good job for a sway bar. Thats why we usually use disconnects.
Sway Bar Disconnects Fronts - Nissan Patrol GQ GU 4-7" Lift, Suspension Stuff
Pull the pin on 1 side before you go offroad (3 seconds). And you have full articulation, with a solid working sway bar for road use. Because you have only pulled the pin on 1 side its not flapping about or getting in the way. IF you decided to run a front sway bar. You can get disconnects for those aswell with most opting to weld a piece of flat plat with a hole drilled in it to the chassi. This then becomes the mounting point to hold the front sway bar completely clear.
Just my thoughts...
- Thread starter
- #208
TheBigBoy said:
Butt Dyno on the FJC proved very good, in comparison to OE sway with no extensions (the sway bar arms were at a dramatic angle to the frame rails, negating effectiveness), improved to OE sway with extensions, and improved to no sway bar at all.
In all honesty, when I "tested" the first three scenarios, there was no change between running with or without the sway, BUT this is based on a tuned long travel front end with coil overs, NOT a solid axle.
Only basis I have, though.
They're very effective amongst the J**p crowd and there's variations that are dual rate, pneumatically operated. Overboard for me, but effective.
I could see disconnecting the front, if running, but rear anti-sway is important off road, too.
Not trying to reinvent the wheel, nor ire the 80 deities. Not making an argument that it's the best thing since unobtainum, nor try to prove it to be.
I am not afraid, be it a success, or failure.
Looking forward to your install of that anti rock swaybar!
Sent from my C771 using IH8MUD
Sent from my C771 using IH8MUD
But the reason antirocks are good offroad is the same as why people leave their rear sway bars on here. It forced the front to articulate. Alot of the rigs with linked suspension are very soft and floppy. So it reduces this also. You don't have to force the front to articulate, you have superflex arms. If I where you id run no front sway bar. Either leave the stock rear or go heavier (not lighter) and put disconnects on it. Trust me. You want all your components to work on with each other. We've been playing with these set up in aus for a very very long time.
Delancy, what I meant about the fear comment had more to do with the fact that a lot of people are afraid to try things or fabricate. Obviously, you are not one of those people.
- Thread starter
- #212
Slowerthanu said:
"Sometimes, you're actually restricted by what you know. It narrows your vision, and doesn't challenge you to find different ways"
-Puulboy (sp?) of Mud.
Why is this relevant?
Because I know nothing, therefore, there are no limitations.
Ignorance=bliss.
Having a review panel of thousands=priceless.
- Thread starter
- #213
To the point that panhards, rear links, steering controls need to be decided and asking for input here, since all pertinent threads are closed.
Plan to run LandTank's rear lowers and front drive shaft, long list of others items in my current cart, to boot.
He'd suggested leaving the OEM uppers since the lower links were lengthened to compensate for 4" lift, negating the need for adjustability. Pinion angle was corrected without.
I'm good with that, but since I'm in there anyway, wondering if there's a benefit to a heim joint, or should I replace the OE bushings and call it a day?
Considering MAF panhards and steering (+4 HD?). Reason for others?
Have stabilizer coming from Shane, and already have a rebuilt box with 105 sector shaft and pitman arm, order OE tie rod ends from Beno.
Missing anything? Some reason why a bad decision?
Plan to run LandTank's rear lowers and front drive shaft, long list of others items in my current cart, to boot.
He'd suggested leaving the OEM uppers since the lower links were lengthened to compensate for 4" lift, negating the need for adjustability. Pinion angle was corrected without.
I'm good with that, but since I'm in there anyway, wondering if there's a benefit to a heim joint, or should I replace the OE bushings and call it a day?
Considering MAF panhards and steering (+4 HD?). Reason for others?
Have stabilizer coming from Shane, and already have a rebuilt box with 105 sector shaft and pitman arm, order OE tie rod ends from Beno.
Missing anything? Some reason why a bad decision?
OEM rubber bushings > all others. No benefit to a heim back there, and most heims are maintenance nightmares compared to the simple OE bushings.
My advice would be to skip the aftermarket panhards, and just lengthen yours as needed. Best thing, would be to raise the panhard mount on your rear axle to get the bar back to being level, and you won't need to lengthen it. That option would be ideal for proper geometry.
My advice would be to skip the aftermarket panhards, and just lengthen yours as needed. Best thing, would be to raise the panhard mount on your rear axle to get the bar back to being level, and you won't need to lengthen it. That option would be ideal for proper geometry.
- Thread starter
- #215
Agreed on heims, though I carry TriFlow in the FJC for when they complain, and they all complain, regardless of what the companies claim.
Tim,
First the rear uppers.
Replace the bushings and call that done?
I bent an unbend able Icon upper link, due to (they claim) "extreme articulation angles" that wouldn't have been possible without the heims.
Are the OE uppers stout enough, need reinforced?
Second, by raising the rear panhard, does that necessitate raising the front panhard/drag link (high steer), as well?
When lengthening the front panhard, is it literally a matter of cutting, bolting both ends, and welding?
What's your take on HD steering?
Tim,
First the rear uppers.
Replace the bushings and call that done?
I bent an unbend able Icon upper link, due to (they claim) "extreme articulation angles" that wouldn't have been possible without the heims.
Are the OE uppers stout enough, need reinforced?
Second, by raising the rear panhard, does that necessitate raising the front panhard/drag link (high steer), as well?
When lengthening the front panhard, is it literally a matter of cutting, bolting both ends, and welding?
What's your take on HD steering?
I would replace the rear upper link bushings and call it done. I've never had an issue with upper links on any 80 that I've ever owned/wheeled.
However.... since you'll be pressing the bushings out on your uppers, that would be the perfect time to beef them up, if you feel the need.
Simply cut the rod in half, and sleeve it with a larger size tube/pipe and weld it all back together. That's what people do on the lowers as well.
Raising the rear panhard axle mount will put things back in spec, while keeping the stock panhard bar. I haven't done this on mine yet, as I'll just be replacing the axles and starting fresh. The offroad handling will be improved with a "level" panhard.
As for the front, you can't really do anything with it, except lengthen to center up your axle. Reason for that? The drag link... The panhard & draglink have to be parallel, or else you'll face bumpsteer problems.
Now, ideally, both would be "level". But unless you go to some sort of high-steer setup (drag link would attach at the top of the steering knuckle), then you're stuck with the angle.
Raising the rear mount will only improve the handling, and will not require any similar mods to the front.
As for beefy steering links? Go right ahead. I haven't had any issues with mine bending on THIS 80, but on my last 80 I turned the drag link into a pretzel when wheeling at hot springs. I was climbing a rock with the steering wheel turned about 45 degrees, and all of the sudden the rig turned full lock and the steering wheel stayed the same!
You dont need to lengthen your rear lower control arms. Its an uneqaul 5 link or 4link with panhard as the US calls it. Raising your truck by 4" will affect the pinion angle stuff all. Put an angle gauge on it, then raise it the 4" and check for yourself. You dont need heims or johhny's or anything like that. The factory bush's are the most comfortable onroad and will easily take up the 12" shocks travel without binding. If you do go 20mm loonger on the lower control arms, you will have to go longer upper control arms aswell = A crap load more cutting and modifying to get the rear tire to clear.
exibit A. Complete stock rear with 12" shocks and 35's.
You DONT want to raise the rear panhard mount to level without doing the exact same to the front panhard. Otherwise your rolling axis will be off on an angle and all kinds of drivability affects will come into play. Alot of others have gone the man e fre drop panhard bracket for the rear. Total waste of money as changing your upper panhard mount moves your body weight line further away from the rolling axis = more body roll and unstability. You also cant move the rear panhard mount on the diff end higher without moving ALL 4 control arm mounts at the diff end. As this will cause binding and it will try and tear itself apart during articulation.
My advice, beef up the control arms as much as you want without changing lengths. Dont run a front sway bar. Run the stock sway bar in the rear with the correct length links and disconnects. Run genuine toyota rubber bush's in panhards and control arms.
You want this thing to drive extremely well on the road, and still crawl over everything.
exibit A. Complete stock rear with 12" shocks and 35's.
You DONT want to raise the rear panhard mount to level without doing the exact same to the front panhard. Otherwise your rolling axis will be off on an angle and all kinds of drivability affects will come into play. Alot of others have gone the man e fre drop panhard bracket for the rear. Total waste of money as changing your upper panhard mount moves your body weight line further away from the rolling axis = more body roll and unstability. You also cant move the rear panhard mount on the diff end higher without moving ALL 4 control arm mounts at the diff end. As this will cause binding and it will try and tear itself apart during articulation.
My advice, beef up the control arms as much as you want without changing lengths. Dont run a front sway bar. Run the stock sway bar in the rear with the correct length links and disconnects. Run genuine toyota rubber bush's in panhards and control arms.
You want this thing to drive extremely well on the road, and still crawl over everything.
Tim you have more to gain than anyone with amount of lift your running. At that angle your panhards are almost useless. The amount of angle on your tierods under articualtion would flog them out quick. Flipping the arms is just 1 small part.
