80 series sub tanks complete system

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I "think" the diesel switches are different in early trucks because there were two servo valves routing the diesel, IIRC. The later switches for petrol are all I had to test in the original install. Where are you guys getting the factory ECUs? Or are you not using them?

i think most are going to be repurposed to transfer tank switches since that appears to be the easier set up. for 100 series owners it will likely just toggle the dash gauge with a separate transfer switch rigged elsewhere.

i am still thinking about an oem setup but i have not yet tackled your thread. i've never understood why a different ecu is necessary.
 
Switches

The switches and rods are in!!!!!:bounce: I will ship out today to everyone.

ck
 
The switches and rods are in!!!!!:bounce: I will ship out today to everyone.

ck

Is there going to be another shipment of 80 tanks? If so, I'd like to be on the list.
 
X2 on the 80 tanks
 
Guys I have a couple tanks left and an additional tank that has loose baffles which i will also be selling. I am waiting on new dual fillers before I offer them up on the list. I think there are enough guys already on the list to take those. I have also asked them to find me additional tanks. ill keep the list as is and will send pms when I get info.

chris
 
i am still thinking about an oem setup but i have not yet tackled your thread. i've never understood why a different ecu is necessary.

The subtank system is a standalone "limb" to the overall wiring harness. The ECU processes the transfer commands to the pump and solenoid, blocks them if the transfer would cause an overflow, blocks them if the battery is low, and blocks them if the aux tank is too low, so as to not burn out the pump. The ECU provides this intelligence, along with an interface into the onboard truck diagnostics. Its more than just on/off.
 
The subtank system is a standalone "limb" to the overall wiring harness. The ECU processes the transfer commands to the pump and solenoid, blocks them if the transfer would cause an overflow, blocks them if the battery is low, and blocks them if the aux tank is too low, so as to not burn out the pump. The ECU provides this intelligence, along with an interface into the onboard truck diagnostics. Its more than just on/off.

that sounds very cool, but i don't understand why it is desirable to complicate it like that with a transfer setup. wouldn't it make more sense to plumb and wire both tanks so the subtank switch toggles a solenoid to switch the fuel feeds/returns between tanks and a relay to switch fuel pumps and senders between tanks?
 
Guys I have a couple tanks left and an additional tank that has loose baffles which i will also be selling. I am waiting on new dual fillers before I offer them up on the list. I think there are enough guys already on the list to take those. I have also asked them to find me additional tanks. ill keep the list as is and will send pms when I get info.

chris

Sounds good, please add me to the list if by chance it gets that far down. I'd also be interested in a stand alone 80 series dual filler neck.
 
that sounds very cool, but i don't understand why it is desirable to complicate it like that with a transfer setup. wouldn't it make more sense to plumb and wire both tanks so the subtank switch toggles a solenoid to switch the fuel feeds/returns between tanks and a relay to switch fuel pumps and senders between tanks?

Semlin, what you are describing is pretty much how Toyota designed the system for the 100 series. El Mariachi is referring to the 80 series petrol system. I have the 80 series system set up exactly as he is describing in my '96. Its great and was not terribly hard to install since most of the wiring is already there. It was just time consuming.
However, for my LX470, I'd prefer to switch between the two tanks, as you described. I think it adds a level of redundancy, especially if the main tank fuel pump should become inoperative. However, the ability to transfer between the main & sub tanks would be great and ensure maximum range IF one of the fuel pumps (main or sub) became inoperative. Fuel in a tank is no good if you can't get it out!
I just need to sort out my charcoal canister obstacle... I have a 2007 & it's in the back where the sub tank needs to go. I need to retrofit an earlier style charcoal canister, vsv assembly in the engine bay but I'm just not sure how to do that, yet. Hope to look into that this fall and post up.
 
Could you please update the 80 list to reflect who has received a tank and where we all stand on the 2nd shipment (Fingers crossed). Thanks in advance.
 
that sounds very cool, but i don't understand why it is desirable to complicate it like that with a transfer setup. wouldn't it make more sense to plumb and wire both tanks so the subtank switch toggles a solenoid to switch the fuel feeds/returns between tanks and a relay to switch fuel pumps and senders between tanks?

Semlin,

IMHO, it's WAY more complicated to install a system such as the one you're describing vs a transfer system for most folks <--- disclaimer!!. Of course, this is highly subjective but adding a subtank to a perfectly good oem system is more preferable to me than to open it up and install a true dual tank system. I absolutely love complicated systems but tell you what, the subtank system using George's ECU has been rock solid for the last 9 years.

It seems that anytime I tend to muck with Toyota OEM systems, I introduce a reliability issue so this works for me. :bang: YMMV.
 
Semlin,

IMHO, it's WAY more complicated to install a system such as the one you're describing vs a transfer system for most folks <--- disclaimer!!. Of course, this is highly subjective but adding a subtank to a perfectly good oem system is more preferable to me than to open it up and install a true dual tank system. I absolutely love complicated systems but tell you what, the subtank system using George's ECU has been rock solid for the last 9 years.

It seems that anytime I tend to muck with Toyota OEM systems, I introduce a reliability issue so this works for me. :bang: YMMV.

maybe, but tank switch solenoids are rigged by diy folks on boats all the time, and the bilge where they live is probably a more demanding environment than under a truck. there is no ecu, just relays, valves and switches. it is common on diesel powered boats with side tanks to have the return lines rigged separately so you can use it to redirect fuel to trim your boat.
 
Cool.. Glad you received the switch...

I will email the last cpl of guys that have tanks avail. I will also try and update the list next week... Its Fashion Week right now! other than that and Archery Elk season its the only time i don't respond promptly!:eek:
 
I agree with the dual system with two sets of lines. It seems overly complicated. It is nice to have a redundant system but I don't recall anyone having an issue with the fuel delivery system that would require the additional work...

but... if you really want to do. i would love to see the install. The last time I brough over tanks I ask them to send a set of the 80 lines... They are really long and the trip over was tough on them.
 
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Are you guys cleaning out your tanks before installing or is it not necessary?

Mine came out of a diesel 80 and it had about a quart of diesel sloshing around in it still. Drained most of that out.

I was thinking of getting it boiled out at a radiator shop and POR-15'd at first, but I'm not sure if that's even necessary. It actually looks pretty clean inside for a 20+ year old diesel subtank.

Should I just rinse it out with a hose, dry it out and move on to the install?
 
cleaning

cleaning tanks... you should pull the sender off and peak inside. I've looked at a few and none of them seem like they needed major cleaning othere\ than a quick wash down... empty.. filll with gas and drain again... Never seen rust in any of them either!
 

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