80 series driveline noise question (1 Viewer)

[ElJayBird]

I had a similar issue and it turned out to be u-joints

 

[mudgudgeon]

seems to get better after I hit the zirc fittings on the driveshaft with grease...

classic symptom of worn u joints. But worn slop yolk is a possibility too

okay thanks, so maybe the yanking on the driveshaft wont give me a difinitive answer on bad u-joints... ill grease em and see if that helps..then like you said, if so ill know to replace those...

I agree 100% with @BILT4ME

My prefered method to check u joints is to 4 remove the driveshaft so you can rotate the uni joint in every direction and feel for slop, notchy-ness, or binding. If should rotate freely and smoothly in all directions.
10 mins with 2 14mm wrenches, you can have the shaft out. Just don't drop it on your head .


If you don't know the history of the truck, I'd put uni joints fairly high on the base-lining list.
Use OEM joints, and give them a hit of your favorite grease each time you change oil, and forget then for the next 5 years

 

[Tools R Us]

To evaluate u-joints, the drive shaft has to have slack. Can disconnect at least one end or block the wheels and put it in neutral, so the shafts are not holding the vehicle in place. In some cases, depending on setup, it will run smooth or smoother with the front shaft changed to in-phase.

 

[cruisercesar]

To evaluate u-joints, the drive shaft has to have slack. Can disconnect at least one end or block the wheels and put it in neutral, so the shafts are not holding the vehicle in place. In some cases, depending on setup, it will run smooth or smoother with the front shaft changed to in-phase.

When changing the shaft phase is new balance needed?

 

[Tools R Us]

When changing the shaft phase is new balance needed?

Not on the ones we have done.

 

[mudgudgeon]

When changing the shaft phase is new balance needed?

Strictly speaking, probably.

But, if you mark the slip joint in it's current alignment, you can try changing the phasing by taking the slip joint apart and rotating it 90° or 270°, try both and put it back to its original position if there's no improvement.

You might get lucky in one position, and not the other

 

[enox]

I had a similar issue and it turned out to be u-joints

Hoping that's my case, I'll diagno

classic symptom of worn u joints. But worn slop yolk is a possibility too



I agree 100% with @BILT4ME

My prefered method to check u joints is to 4 remove the driveshaft so you can rotate the uni joint in every direction and feel for slop, notchy-ness, or binding. If should rotate freely and smoothly in all directions.
10 mins with 2 14mm wrenches, you can have the shaft out. Just don't drop it on your head .


If you don't know the history of the truck, I'd put uni joints fairly high on the base-lining list.
Use OEM joints, and give them a hit of your favorite grease each time you change oil, and forget then for the next 5 years

Just re-checked u joints, I did have slack. I hit the zirc fittings on the u-joints with the grease gun. They needed quite a bit of grease before I felt they were full and expanded.

I'll have to take it on the freeway later and see if there's improvement.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Hoping that's my case, I'll diagno

Just re-checked u joints, I did have slack. I hit the zirc fittings on the u-joints with the grease gun. They needed quite a bit of grease before I felt they were full and expanded.

I'll have to take it on the freeway later and see if there's improvement.

If you can feel play in the u joints, grease is a very temporary bandaid. Time for new uni joints

 

[enox]

If you can feel play in the u joints, grease is a very temporary bandaid. Time for new uni joints

....adding to the list