ARCHIVE 80 Series - Did you know?

[Florida 80]

Did you know you can refinish your wheels for about $40-50ish!!

Items needed: Paint stripper (2 cans), 400 grit sand paper (for wet sanding recessed areas of wheel), abrasive pad (for wet sanding face of wheel), adhesion promoter (1 can) and dupli color clear coat (2 cans)....oh and some tape & newspaper to cover tires.

.

A pressure washer made things a lot easier....I let the stripper sit about 20 min then pressure washed (did this twice) then scrubbed till all areas were clean with the abrasive pad while flushing with water hose. I hit the recessed areas with the 400 grit wet sanding to create a contrast. You can polish to your liking, but I used the abrasive pad very lightly around wheel in a circular motion to make wheel surface look even. It has a slightly subdued aluminum finish...I like it. You could use an aluminum polish and buffer to shine it up more.

Next adhesion promoter, then 3 coats of clear....Done.

Oh! and the center caps I did using a solo cup (from Costco....I'll try to find which size it was). I painted the cap black then popped the solo cup lip into the recess on the center cap (fit perfectly) then sprayed the rest with aluminum colored spray paint then clear.

 

[retrofive]

DYK - You can change your belts in 15mins.

 

[NLXTACY]

DYK - You can change your belts in 15mins.

Link?

 

[retrofive]

Link?

Guess it was 25mins.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/changing-your-belts-in-25-minutes.185209/

 

[LS1FJ40]

Yes and Yes. The fan is removed permanently and you have to trim the bracket that holds the VSVs a little. You can use the bolts from the fan assembly to mount the battery tray. Works great and no issues from removing the fan.View attachment 1055440 View attachment 1055441 View attachment 1055442

I thought so. I will be doing this this summer. Much needed. Thanks.

 

[NLXTACY]

Holy crap, I just went through and took notes of everything. I have a LOT of drawings I need to figure out. Sheesh.

 

[retrofive]

Holy crap, I just went through and took notes of everything. I have a LOT of drawings I need to figure out. Sheesh.

I'm not returning your prototype until your are done!

 

[NLXTACY]

I'm not returning your prototype until your are done!

Ugh. I need to call you so I can move forward on THAT project...the one no one else knows about

 

[jfz80]

Say what?!?

Mine seem to be 15/16" lol

 

[LS1FJ40]

Did you know you can refinish your wheels for about $40-50ish!!

Items needed: Paint stripper (2 cans), 400 grit sand paper (for wet sanding recessed areas of wheel), abrasive pad (for wet sanding face of wheel), adhesion promoter (1 can) and dupli color clear coat (2 cans)....oh and some tape & newspaper to cover tires.View attachment 1055561 .

A pressure washer made things a lot easier....I let the stripper sit about 20 min then pressure washed (did this twice) then scrubbed till all areas were clean with the abrasive pad while flushing with water hose. I hit the recessed areas with the 400 grit wet sanding to create a contrast. You can polish to your liking, but I used the abrasive pad very lightly around wheel in a circular motion to make wheel surface look even. It has a slightly subdued aluminum finish...I like it. You could use an aluminum polish and buffer to shine it up more.

Next adhesion promoter, then 3 coats of clear....Done.View attachment 1055558

Oh! and the center caps I did using a solo cup (from Costco....I'll try to find which size it was). I painted the cap black then popped the solo cup lip into the recess on the center cap (fit perfectly) then sprayed the rest with aluminum colored spray paint then clear.

This is great if you want to keep the stock look. I like it. I didn't know about this when I did my wheels so I just washed them with Dawn and warm water. Let dry. Then sprayed them with primer, then two coats of Rustoleum wheel paint. Cost, maybe $15. Lasted 3 years before I touched them up again. (just washed and sprayed another coat).

 

[artech]

Alright when I get back from my meeting I'll break into my dash.

Won't help. We have tried running all the numbers inked on and cast into the switch body through every part ID program I can find with zero results.
The pics at the end of this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/red-hazard-switch-part-number.760908/page-3

has the numbers we tried, does yours have the same numbers? I can't cross those numbers to anything helpful, can anyone else try?

 

[FDNewbie]

Did you know that the sunroof has an alarm when it is in the tilted open position and the key is removed from the ignition?

If you don't hear it, you have a sensor out. (Jury is still out on whether the 97s have this.)

I have a 97, and don't get an alarm when I leave the sunroof open and remove the key.

 

[downeastcruiser]

Mine is a '97 and the alarm DOES go off if I leave the sunroof open

 

[canman]

Did you know that there is factory wiring (at least in a 96 80) for heated seats, located under the center console and running over to the plug underneath each seat? All you need are two factory switches and some aftermarket heating pads and you're golden!

Does anyone know if the LX has these connectors?

 

[NLXTACY]

Does anyone know if the LX has these connectors?

Mine does. Found them when I was doing my big wiring project.

 

[canman]

Mine does. Found them when I was doing my big wiring project.

Thanks. Looking at the thread below, same question was asked (posts #93 & #99), but no response.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/seat-heater-switches.387307/page-5

 

[FDNewbie]

Mine is a '97 and the alarm DOES go off if I leave the sunroof open

Grrr. Wonder how you trace that problem down...(non-functioning alarm).

 

[NLXTACY]

Grrr. Wonder how you trace that problem down...(non-functioning alarm).

Or is it a feature?

 

[wrongway around]

Ok I'll bite.
since your diagnosing wireing.
Did you know . A simple light bulb test light has many uses , one of them being
Open your hood
disconnect your positive lead
and clamp the clamp end of your test lead wire to your positive battery
and the other end ( pointed end ) i poke in the round terminal end (so it kind of hangs in there itself ) .
with the ignition and everything turned off
if your test light bulb ( or any 12 volt bulb you use for a tester ) Lights up you got a problem Houston.
the brighter the bulb the bigger the problem.
Been a while since i had an electrical issue with my truck ( a little less electrical being a diesel ) . Didn't drive it for a while then,had a bunch of issues , being hidden with three batteries to cover it up . Found three bad bulbs (interior bulbs , still worked perfectly, just drew more than should have when shouldnt have ) . Six bad positive wires ( extra draw , no real charge), armature draw from oil film skinning inside the starter ( which was a simple 24 to 12 volt starter conversion I did already and didn't want to have to replace again ). And a ham radio that is hunger all the time.
Anyways i think the test light has earned a spot up front with me for a bit , maybe even her own box.

 

[NLXTACY]

^great post. Not enough people understand the power of the test light