80 series Crank Bolt - FINAL BOSS

[Ancient]

Currently getting my ass kicked rn trying to remove this dang bolt. So far I have tried:
1/2in breaker bar (broke the square)
1/2 ratchet (broke the square)
1/2 impact driver 1000lb torque (wouldn’t budge)

Just ordered a 3/4 socket and breaker bar. Should be here tomorrow. Any suggestions for how/what I should do next?

 

[jeremy j]

I have no real advice since 3/4 breaker sound like a good next step. I would try that and add a pipe to the breaker bar to get more leverage. I use a jack handle when i need more power.

 

[Ancient]

I have no real advice since 3/4 breaker sound like a good next step. I would try that and add a pipe to the breaker bar to get more leverage. I use a jack handle when i need more power.

Good point. definitely gonna be using the cheater bar to my advantage.

 

[jonheld]

Lots of posts on this subject if you search.
Folks use a breaker bar wedged into the frame, pull the plug wire off the coil, and bump the starter.

 

[ZackR]

Lots of posts on this subject if you search.
Folks use a breaker bar wedged into the frame, pull the plug wire off the coil, and bump the starter.

It wasn't necessarily elegant but that's how I did mine in 2018.

Now I have a compressor and a real impact wrench (1500 ft-lb) I could zip it off with.

 

[ZackR]

Forgot to add this is the impact that's worked well for me. Not long ago I used it to remove the harmonic balancer bolt from my 1997' 7.3 Powerstroke, it didn't even flinch.

Harbor Freight Earthquake XT 1/2"

This review sums it up pretty well:

 

[Ancient]

Lots of posts on this subject if you search.
Folks use a breaker bar wedged into the frame, pull the plug wire off the coil, and bump the starter.

Now what if someone has the engine torn apart?

 

[ikarus]

Few ideas in here:

Thread 'The World's Tightest Bolt'

Aug 14, 2025

So, my first timing wrestling with the 1HD-T crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer bolt. It's kicking my ass.

I tried bumping the starter; disconnect fuel cutoff solenoid, long breaker bar. Starter doesn't have the guts to break it lose.

I then proceeded to snap my SST #09330-00021 in half doing it the way the factory manual recommended.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

• GreenPump
• Replies: 22
• Forum: Diesel Tech / 24 volts

• 

post #20 talks about cutting off the flange on the bolt

 

[bhsdriller]

How are you holding the crank?

Anyways if you are holding it solid just need more leverage, the 3/4 bar with the handle of a floor jack on it always works for me.

 

[60 toy ota]

a thick (i mean thicccc) walled socket works wonders for impacting crank bolts. I wouldn't use heat unless you plan on replacing your harmonic balancer

 

[Kernal]

All the above. When the bump start method didn't work on my 97 model I slid a 5' long section of galvanized 2" pipe over the ~42" long 3/4" drive breaker bar using a 30mm thick wall 3/4" drive impact rated socket on the bolt. I had a self-made crank holding tool bolted to the face of the HB and the other end slid under the frame rail, held up in place with a jack stand. I then pulled on that cheater bar/pipe (at least a 6:1 ratio due to the length of the pipe/breaker bar) with all my strength and weight, so well over 1000ftlbs and possibly 1500 ft lbs of torque was applied to the bolt. When the crank bolt broke free it sounded like a gun shot and I was sure I had snapped the bolt, but nope, it was good. If you use that method put something solid/thick between the breaker/cheater bar and the fender so you don't dent it if the bar gets away from you. Ditto for the radiator, a piece of plywood slid down in back of the radiator is cheap insurance.

 

[raisinhell2]

I just posted a tool I made just for this! Show off your tools! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/show-off-your-tools.1308739/page-25#post-16315608

 

[TheBussman]

heat up the bolt with a torch

 

[Ancient]

All the above. When the bump start method didn't work on my 97 model I slid a 5' long section of galvanized 2" pipe over the ~42" long 3/4" drive breaker bar using a 30mm thick wall 3/4" drive impact rated socket on the bolt. I had a self-made crank holding tool bolted to the face of the HB and the other end slid under the frame rail, held up in place with a jack stand. I then pulled on that cheater bar/pipe (at least a 6:1 ratio due to the length of the pipe/breaker bar) with all my strength and weight, so well over 1000ftlbs and possibly 1500 ft lbs of torque was applied to the bolt. When the crank bolt broke free it sounded like a gun shot and I was sure I had snapped the bolt, but nope, it was good. If you use that method put something solid/thick between the breaker/cheater bar and the fender so you don't dent it if the bar gets away from you. Ditto for the radiator, a piece of plywood slid down in back of the radiator is cheap insurance.

Good info! Hopefully tomorrow, When my tools arrive, I will report back with some good news.

 

[Ancient]

I just posted a tool I made just for this! Show off your tools! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/show-off-your-tools.1308739/page-25#post-16315608

Is this a torque multiplier?

 

[thatcabledude]

Forgot to add this is the impact that's worked well for me. Not long ago I used it to remove the harmonic balancer bolt from my 1997' 7.3 Powerstroke, it didn't even flinch.

Harbor Freight Earthquake XT 1/2"

This review sums it up pretty well:

View attachment 4140463

Earthquake is a good impact.

 

[thatcabledude]

…With a real compressor behind it.

 

[raisinhell2]

Is this a torque multiplier?

Yes Sir 3 to 1 take 100lb of torque to put it on . if my Mikwak m 18 wont take 1 off , I take them off with ease with that and a reg breaker bar

 

[BTLSHP]

I do the bump start on my ES without a moment's hesitation. On the LC, the proximity of the radiator scared me. I built this POS tool and got 3' of black pipe to extent my breaker bar. The breaker bar has not been quite the same ever since.

 

[reklund5]

FWIW cheapo breaker bars and ratchets break waaaay easier than good stuff. See if you can hit a pawn shop or borrow some quality snap on/proto/matco stuff for this job. I've never met a crank bolt I couldn't pop loose with the proper crank holding tool and a couple of my Matco/Snap On breaker bars. I've broken countless Craftsman/Husky/HoboFreight/Amazon tools trying tho.