80 series caster correction plates (9 Viewers)

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A group of us have been working on caster correction plates for 80 series Land Cruiser. We are getting close to production. Our target price for the kit with all the hardware is:
  • $105 pick up for CSC member. Shipping is extra.
  • $130 shipped for non CSC member.
If you have OME850J front springs or equivalent lift, this kit will correct your caster back close to stock setting. Please post here if you are interested in this, the more the merrier as this may reduce our final price. All proceeds will go to CSC outing events.

[URL='http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/medtro/ih8mud/CSC/caster_plate.jpg'][URL='http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/medtro/ih8mud/CSC/caster_plate.jpg']


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Installed prototype
Also caster results with plates installed on OME 850J front and 863 rear
Installation feedback thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-copper-state-cruisers/685319-land-cruiser-help-wanted-saturday.html

IMG_5284.jpg


IMG_5285.jpg


Caster specs.jpg
 
I just finished my caster plates,removed the yellow bushings, and went back to the factory rubber front lower control arm bushings.

I feel the handling is more stable - esp over harsh surfaces on the road at speed. My caster went from +.5 to +4.0 doing this method. The spec from Toyota is +2.0 to +4.0.

One of the pleasant suprises was the amount of the absorbtion the rubber bushings take up. I can even feel a difference going over the curb into my driveway.
Dont get me wrong, I liked the ride and handling prior but like this even more.

I would echo Medtro's suggestion about using the plates on J spring lifts.

This looks like a good group buy :clap:
 
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I just finished my caster plates,removed the yellow bushings, and went back to the factory rubber front lower control arm bushings.

I feel the handling is more stable - esp over harsh surfaces on the road at speed. My caster went from +.5 to +4.0 doing this method. The spec from Toyota is +2.0 to +4.0.

One of the pleasant suprises was the amount of the absorbtion the rubber bushings take up. I can even feel a difference going over the curb into my driveway.
Dont get me wrong, I liked the ride and handling prior but like this even more.

I would echo Medtro's suggestion about using the plates on J spring lifts.

This looks like a good group buy :clap:

Bah...just did my "washer mod" not long ago. This would have been so much easier.

Murf...why are OEM bushing so :censor: expensive? I want to go back to OEM bushing, but it's like $200.
 
I'm curious how much caster would measure with yellow offset bushings and plates. If anyone has the chance to check before they go back to o
OEM centered bushings that would be helpful. Measurement with just yellow, and a measurement with yellow plus plates. If it's possible. I wonder how the 80 would drive with 5ish deg of caster. Getting into BMW caster numbers...
 
I'm curious how much caster would measure with yellow offset bushings and plates. If anyone has the chance to check before they go back to o
OEM centered bushings that would be helpful. Measurement with just yellow, and a measurement with yellow plus plates. If it's possible. I wonder how the 80 would drive with 5ish deg of caster. Getting into BMW caster numbers...
It sounds like these plates are good for 3.5 degrees, from Murf's numbers. Add that on top of the value of whatever castor correction bushing you want, and you will probably have a lot more than 5. Excessive castor may result in a heavier feel steering in turns and possibly more feedback from irregular road surfaces. Even though these plates are certainly a good deal, and castor plates are much less labor intensive for installation, I am going to opt for the washer mod setup. I like the idea of being able to fine tune the castor setting before locking it into a permanent mode. John

P.S. I totally agree that OEM rubber bushings are the way to go. I learned a couple of decades ago that poly bushings are way harder than rubber and that they make a big difference in ride and wheel feel.
 
Your caster readings will vary depending on the height of your rig. Where my caster is 4.0, LCPhil's is 3.5 due to his truck sits about .4 inch higher in the front vs my LC.

The one area I was concerned was the heaviness of the steering wheel after raising the caster so much. I was pleasantly suprised to find out it didnt seem to change too much at all.

As far as bushings: Yea, not cheap but remember that the originals in most of these rigs around here are still running strong with 16-19 years and 100-250K on them.
 
As far as bushings: Yea, not cheap but remember that the originals in most of these rigs around here are still running strong with 16-19 years and 100-250K on them.

They really arent that bad, about $30 each, its just that there are 6 of them (18 if you include rears CA's and panhards), plus AZ sales tax! I'm finding they get hard with age (like arteries) and when you flex 'em, they start coming apart.
 
I will take a set of plates
 
I just finished my caster plates,removed the yellow bushings, and went back to the factory rubber front lower control arm bushings.

I feel the handling is more stable - esp over harsh surfaces on the road at speed. My caster went from +.5 to +4.0 doing this method. The spec from Toyota is +2.0 to +4.0.

It sounds like these plates are good for 3.5 degrees, from Murf's numbers.

Can you please clarify "good for 3.5 degrees"? Please keep in mind that Eric went from +.5 to +4.0 for going from yellow bushings to caster plates.

I would hate to have people think that these plates are "good for 3.5 degrees correction". These plates do more than 3.5 degrees caster correction. They will correct the caster back close to stock setting for rig with OME850J or equivalent lift.
 
Can you please clarify "good for 3.5 degrees"? Please keep in mind that Eric went from +.5 to +4.0 for going from yellow bushings to caster plates.

I would hate to have people think that these plates are "good for 3.5 degrees correction". These plates do more than 3.5 degrees caster correction. They will correct the caster back close to stock setting for rig with OME850J or equivalent lift.
So I forgot about the yellow bushings. what are they rated at for correction?
 
So I forgot about the yellow bushings. what are they rated at for correction?

~3" lift & plates will put you at the top of Toyota spec
~4.5" lift & plates will put you at the bottom of Toyota spec
Spec 2°-4°

Plates have the same amount of correction as Metal tech and Slees although the design of the plate is slightly different.
 
~3" lift & plates will put you at the top of Toyota spec
~4.5" lift & plates will put you at the bottom of Toyota spec
Spec 2°-4°

Plates have the same amount of correction as Metal tech and Slees although the design of the plate is slightly different.
That's cool, but I meant what is the caster correction value for the yellow bushings.
 
I'm curious how much caster would measure with yellow offset bushings and plates. If anyone has the chance to check before they go back to o
OEM centered bushings that would be helpful. Measurement with just yellow, and a measurement with yellow plus plates. If it's possible. I wonder how the 80 would drive with 5ish deg of caster. Getting into BMW caster numbers...

No mater what correction method is used, there is only so much available adjustment/correction before the tie rod inter fears with the stock arms. Most plates or washer mod setups use all of the available adjustment, adding bushings will make tie rod to arm contact. To get more adjustment, replacement arms are needed.
 
Medtro,
Put me down for a set.
Cook
 
No mater what correction method is used, there is only so much available adjustment/correction before the tie rod inter fears with the stock arms. Most plates or washer mod setups use all of the available adjustment, adding bushings will make tie rod to arm contact. To get more adjustment, replacement arms are needed.

So, Kevin, are you going to start building caster correction arms?:p
 
I'm interested in a set
 

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