80 Series Brake Rotors ? Whats been working for you... (1 Viewer)
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txgringo
SILVER Star
I'm less concerned with braking power as I've not had any issues with this. My primary concern is heat tolerance when I'm going down long steep grades (e.g. Wolf Creek Pass, 550 between Durango & Silverton). Heat dispersal is the primary feature I'm looking at on rotors, and the cryo treatment is supposed to help prevent them from warping or developing stress cracks under high heat. For pads I'm looking for something that is designed to work even at really high temps, which is why the DBA XP650 caught my eye with a 1200F temp rating.
As to smooth vs. drilled/slotted vs. slotted, none of these offer any "stopping advantage" over the other. Drilling & slotting are supposed to help with heat dissipation + dust/gas dissipation. However, I've heard a lot of people talking about drilled rotors cracking and even shattering under heavy stress. It seems that drilling significantly weakens the rotors, so I'll be sticking with slotted.
As to smooth vs. drilled/slotted vs. slotted, none of these offer any "stopping advantage" over the other. Drilling & slotting are supposed to help with heat dissipation + dust/gas dissipation. However, I've heard a lot of people talking about drilled rotors cracking and even shattering under heavy stress. It seems that drilling significantly weakens the rotors, so I'll be sticking with slotted.
Heat tolerance typically comes down to the pad material itself. In my race car I would get rotors glowing red from brake use, on $13 autozone rotors. Never had a rotor crack, but the aggressive pad material used for high heat would wear down the rotors almost as fast as the pads. I think that is a very extreme situation. Never had a problem with warping, in fact what most people think is a warped rotor is really pad material which has fused to the rotor making them feel warped. Typically solved by a re-bed of the pads to the rotors.
I got mine from R1 Concepts. Eline Slotted Disc Brake Rotor with Posi-Quiet Loaded Caliper. Prices are good and performance has been good so far. I dont like the pads that come with the load calipers tho...
Says it's a genuine centric product
Amazon.com: Power Slot 126.44093SL Slotted Brake Rotor: Automotive
Brembo rotors, OEM pads......works well for me
That's the one. I did some reading up on them before my choice, seemed to go strong on quality, works great for me so far. They do offer cryo treatment, but it has a couple week wait tome and unfortunately I couldn't do that. Cryogenic treatment helps relieve stress and makes a stronger surface, if you believe the claims, which I do.
steffan
SILVER Star
I've had the powerslot set (rotors and pads) for a while now. I was sceptical but they had pretty good reviews and the price was right. So far they've been great
Cool! Funny enough though the left rotor and the right rotor are from different suppliers. I already had them in my shopping cart when I saw this thread. I'm doing this job soon and was already likely set on these rotors, but still need to pick the pads. Was thinking 100 series but the guys at @cruiseroutfit said that a 100 series pad likely wouldn't fit around a brand new rotor, only one that had been machined at least once. I wonder how true that is. Either way I was thinking of using the Hawk LTS pads. Anyone have any thoughts on those pads?
I used EBC 100 series on my new Stop Techs. Had to ditch the anti squeal metal pad and they were really tight, but went together. I'm liking the combo
Did the "Green Stuff" compound
txgringo
SILVER Star
If you want to get rotors cryo treated, you can always have them shipped to a cryo shop when you order them, and then have them shipped to you when they're finished. I'm having mine shipped to 300 Below (http://300below.com/). They said they can turn them around in 72 hours and charge $1.50/lb with a $100 minimum. Probably cost you another $30-40 in shipping. This is the best deal I've found for cryo treatment.
Ordered a set of DBA rotors for $480 with free shipping, and going with the Green Stuff pads.
I don't remember, but those look right.
I've seeiously considered starting a cryo treatment company, I think it's really a good idea, and very cool (no pun intended). Pretty much how I started a powder coating business 23 years ago, I thought it was cool.
txgringo
SILVER Star
That's the part # for the 6000 series pads for the 100 series fronts. I've put 100 pads on an 80, and they went on, but required a lot of sweet talking.
They also make a 7000 series pads but I'm not sure if they're worth the extra coin. Part number for 100 series fronts is DP71319.
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I've always read so much on here about people complaining about the 80 stopping power. To me, I've never had an issue. My 80 has always stopped fine.
I've run NAPA rotors (~$50 each) and Power Stop Ceramic pads ($35 for both sides) since 2013 and have no issues with warping or stopping power. Course I drive my 80 pretty gingerly.
I've run NAPA rotors (~$50 each) and Power Stop Ceramic pads ($35 for both sides) since 2013 and have no issues with warping or stopping power. Course I drive my 80 pretty gingerly.
When I lived and worked in the Detroit area there were quite a few heat treating as well as cryo facilities due to the automotive industry.
I have over 225,000 miles and have gone back to OEM pads and rotors for the best performance. I've used concentric, Napa , and 100 series pads.
Do check for proper brake fluid bleeding and also the brake booster and vacuum valve. The single most improvement on braking was replacing the brake booster at 180,000 miles. This was after various oem/aftermarket pads, rotors, master cylinder, and stainless steel lines.
Do check for proper brake fluid bleeding and also the brake booster and vacuum valve. The single most improvement on braking was replacing the brake booster at 180,000 miles. This was after various oem/aftermarket pads, rotors, master cylinder, and stainless steel lines.
