80 series body roll solutions.

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Probably the last post in this thread. As already mentioned. For everyday driving the mods I have done to the truck do t seem to improve the truck performance that much.

But,

While driving back from Tennessee I was super impressed by how well the 80 handled through the crazy curve downhill sections on interstate 40.
The 80 felt super stable and safe through those steep mountain sections.
 
Probably the last post in this thread. As already mentioned. For everyday driving the mods I have done to the truck do t seem to improve the truck performance that much.

But,

While driving back from Tennessee I was super impressed by how well the 80 handled through the crazy curve downhill sections on interstate 40.
The 80 felt super stable and safe through those steep mountain sections.

It's worth checking for play in all the front end bearings and tie rod joints.

Wheel bearings, trunion bearings, tie rod ends, steering box etc.

I've found in the past, with fresh bushes, shocks etc, one final thing that contributed to the overall feeling of the rig being planted was having everything in the steering tight and fresh.

Doesn't directly contribute to body roll, but a bit of slackness creates vague steering, under steer, and over correction, then body roll. Even if slight, it can make the whole thing feel like a boat.

I don't run any sway bars, and will happily point my 80 into corners at a fair pace
 
While driving back from Tennessee I was super impressed by how well the 80 handled through the crazy curve downhill sections on interstate 40.
The 80 felt super stable and safe through those steep mountain sections.
That's a pretty good test right there. I'd call your work done. My biggest issues in my 80's were always feeling like the truck was responding in a delayed manner in long, swooping curves at highway speeds. It seems backwards, but I would have rather had a sudden lane change on a straightaway thrown at me than have to change lanes in the middle of a gently sweeping arc of road. Granted, neither one felt pleasant if there was traffic!

Shocks and/or caster correction pretty much solved my issues.
 
I’ve been reading through this thread and I’m surprised that nobody’s recommended fixing the geometry in the rear. Liiiiiike by moving the mounts on the axle side lower control arms up around 2” and the frame side of the upper control arms down around 2”? Has anybody seen someone do this on an 80?

I shoved the numbers in the calculator and with a 3” lift it takes the roll axis inclination from 8ish degrees of over steer to 4ish degrees of oversteer.

It’s still not great, but it should be noticeably more stable because the rear isn’t trying to steer as much around corners. Pairing it with moving the rear panhard up “should” remove the need for a heavier sway bar.



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I’ve been reading through this thread and I’m surprised that nobody’s recommended fixing the geometry in the rear. Liiiiiike by moving the mounts on the axle side lower control arms up around 2” and the frame side of the upper control arms down around 2”? Has anybody seen someone do this on an 80?

I shoved the numbers in the calculator and with a 3” lift it takes the roll axis inclination from 8ish degrees of over steer to 4ish degrees of oversteer.

It’s still not great, but it should be noticeably more stable because the rear isn’t trying to steer as much around corners. Pairing it with moving the rear panhard up “should” remove the need for a heavier sway bar.



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Seems like an awful lot of work, but I'm sure it would make a huge difference.
 
I agree, seems like a lot of work. At the end of the day with everything I have done to my suspension I am finally happy with how my lx450 handles on the road. It isn’t a race car but I now have all the control I need for the type of driving I do with it.

I bet the guys that are linking 80 series cruisers are taking all those numbers into account. And I bet they are fixing all the geometry but again. That is way more work than I want to do with my 80.
 

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