Builds 78 body off restore (cruiser #2) (1 Viewer)

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Awesome thanks. Everything I do is the first time i've done it :) . I'll try your suggestion of the flange and tighten without the seal to get comfortable. The front one seems much worse though...I don't feel like it will just seat without some work. But again, never done this so don't know how it is supposed to be.

My FSM didn't mention the crush sleeve, it refers to adjusting shims. Does anyone know which is true for a 78? I would have to take the drive pinion out if it is a crush sleeve, wouldn't I?
 

Yes, it is slightly different. He sent me a sample of that, and it was more brown in color than the "coral" covers from Cruiser Corps. It was kind of close to the point that some people might not even notice the difference. But it was different enough for my OCD :) . Picture of the sample on my seat cover:

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Got the drive pinion seals done, complete with new flanges from cruiser outfitters. Forgot to take some pics of the seal installed, etc. Did the suggestion to test the preload without the seal installed. Neither of my pinions had shims installed, but it wasn't a crush sleeve that I could tell...looked like a solid spacer. I put things back together exactly how they were. I tested preload with the wheels and drums removed. Was a bit on tighter side, but not much, so I was comfortable with it.


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Also finished the work on the jump seats. Very pleased with how they turned out. Powder coat color is an almost perfect match for Toyota pewter. Used some shoulder screws for the pivot point to fold the seats up.

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Got the new lug studs. Guess I don’t have to worry if they will be long enough lol.

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I also decided to countersink the drum brake screw. Worked out well and everything installed. I had to remove the axles after all because the studs were too long to fit against the backing plate. Still, didn’t take too long.

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and it standing on its own now!

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Nice wheels :):)
 
Thanks Dallas...I feel like i'm trying to keep up!

Planning ahead on some body work and have a couple questions:

1) I will be installing a new 1/2 tub, Also adding new rocker panels and new front floor pan. Basically, everything from the cowl back, except the B pillar, will. be new. Is there a good order to do things, or does it matter? So for example, should I get the tub installed and fitted first, then floor pan then rockers? Or do the front first and finish off so I can attach the 1/2 tub?

2) I'll be putting new floorpans in and as such, will need to redrill all the holes for the seats, transmission hump cover, etc. What do you guys use for the holes here. Do you weld on weld nuts? Are nutserts or rivnuts good? Just a bolt and nut? Does it matter?

Thanks
 
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I would work front to back. First, take the 1/2 tub off by taking out the assembly bolts (hidden on the reverse of the b-pillar), welds and spot welds, do the floor while separated (better access and work area with the 1/2 tub out of the way), rockers, prep and apply weld through primer to the seams and then put your new 1/2 tub on by securing assembly bolts back on, measure all of the dimensions so the body mounts all line up on the frame, etc. before welding/spot welding and so on. Then, you are off to the races with the body work.
 
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Awesome. Thanks. My 1/2 tub is supposed to be delivered this week. I have a full front. My floor pan is in decent shape in some places...trying to decide if I should replace the whole thing, or use the floor I have as a patching source.

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So I’ll follow what you said. I’ve read that folks weld or otherwise attach a temporary brace from b pillar to b pillar and b pillar to a pillar to keep dimensions exact. Is that a good idea in my case?
 
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The entire floor will be a difficult project. How is the existing floor?

Drivers side is in pretty bad shape. It's already been patched a couple times with sheet metal just welded over the top of rusty metal and big holes rusted towards to cowl area. Towards the middle portion near the transmission hump, it gets better (maybe the last 20% of space towards the middle is good and towards the cowl away from the rocker is good). But a pretty good size portion I will for sure want to replace.

Passenger side is in better shape. Rusted through in a few small spots next to the rocker and a couple small holes in the gas tank area. But certainly could keep this part and fix the few areas.

I'll go snap some pictures today.

I've never done this, so didn't know, or really even wonder, if doing the whole floor would be harder. I actually thought it would be easier than trying to patch in various spots :oops:...so sounds like patching in the bad areas would be easier and better? I do like the idea of keeping as much of original as possible.
 
Tell us about your powder coating set up.

I just bought the Eastwood dual voltage gun (Eastwood Dual Voltage Powder Coating Gun Starter Kit) and purchased a kitchen oven for cheap on Craigslist. Powder isn’t expensive and there are 1000 colors. I run everything through a blast cabinet first. Then clean, and usually hang from an oven rack to apply the powder. Press silicone plugs into any threaded holes to protect them. There is also high temp tape I use to cover gasket/sealing areas, etc.

Some example pics:

Parts prepped:
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Powder applied, but not yet baked:
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Jumpseat example - I had to get creative on making this fit in the oven:
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ok, so took some pictures of the front floor. Looking at it now, I realize it isn't nearly as bad as I thought it was. Probably jumped the gun on getting a whole floor, but I guess I was thinking it would be easier... Let me know what you think. Now I'm thinking I will cut off what I need from the full floor on the driver side as patch panels, then I can probably sell the passenger side and middle area to recover a bit of the money.

Driver side:
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passenger side is really good. Small hole in gas tank area, and kind of ugly near the rocker
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Took another hard look at the front floor. It has more rusty bad areas than I thought. The drivers side is really bad and needs a big chunk replaced. The passenger side floor is rotted about 2-3 inches all along the edge by the rocker panel. Also kind of bad at the front seam.

At this point, I’m thinking since I have a full floor, I will use it. @dmaddox , curious why you said replacing the whole floor will be difficult? Seems easier to me than cutting and patching a bunch of spots. But I also have never done this, so very likely am not seeing something.

Driver side (that was covered by a metal patch and fiberglass patchwork (!):

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Passenger:

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Got it makes sense. Thanks. Yeah, new floor is going to mean all new clips, have to drill all the holes and weld on nuts. But I think I’d rather just work with a whole new piece.

I’ve actually Already separated the front floor seam at the cowl, since it was so rusty it came apart pretty easily.

My plan is as follows (if you see anything wrong let me know!):

1) separate the cowl and take it to get sandblasted.
2) once I get the cowl back, get it back in place and lined up, then tack some braces in.
3) get new tub in place
4) floors and rockers in place
5) hold everything together with clamps and test fit with doors, windshield, hard top.
6) once all looks good, weld and bolt things in place.
 
coming along very nicely

i 2nd Dallas's measure 3 time and record on paper etc .......

it can only help :)
 
Awesome thanks guys. I will take every measurement I can think of.
 

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