Builds 78 body off restore (cruiser #2) (1 Viewer)

[Curtice]

Some work on a few random things over the past couple days. Mounted the mini truck ps conversion bracket, and mini truck gear box. Also some work on the engine - bolted on the head and oil pan, as well as timing gear cover and crankshaft pulley. Lastly, painted the engine.

 

[Curtice]

Well today was an “oh effffffff” day. I got my steering all bolted up, suspension is done. I’m feeling good about things. Thought I’ll put the wheels on and finally have a rolling chassis.

Put the front wheels on, looking good! Go to put the rear wheels on and the studs are too short. WTH? I put in Dorman replacements. When I got them, I compared to stock and they appeared the same length. But they are so short I can’t even get the lug to catch the threads. I know they are seated all the way. So don’t know what happened.


ugh, so now I need to take the axle back out and put in longer studs.

 

[dmaddox]

Interesting. I know you bought the fjco wheels, right? Is that the reason? Would a stock wheel fit on there? It also look like you may have another 1/4" to push the drum on, no?

 

[Curtice]

Yes on the fjco wheels. Drum is all the way seated. Looking at it more, it might be a combination of things. The fjco aluminum wheels are thicker than stock wheels at the bolt up area. On top of that, I put on an aftermarket brake drum, which is also thicker than the stock drum, and is slightly longer than the stock drum. Even with those differences though, I would likely get a lug on, but it wouldn't be fully threaded. How much thread shows on stock setup, once a lug is tightened?

As a related side, front lugs went on ok, but they are also a little bit shorter than I would have thought. I'm comfortable with it, so don't need to change those I don't think. I used the same part number for both front and rear...maybe that was not right?

 

[icorradoi]

Same wheel studs front and back on an FJ40. I'm currently rebuilding the axles on my '77 and I used Dorman part #: 610-265. M12-1.50 X 44.5MM length. Napa part# 641-4320. I think they're actually a little longer than stock. I have a rear disc brake conversion, so can't compare with your drum pic.

 

[Curtice]

My dorman part number was 610-244...M12-1.50 - 14.22mm Knurl, 37mm Length. 44.5mm length should do it, so I will probably order those. Great info, thanks.

edit: the Knurl is slightly bigger...that will make it more difficult to install, correct?

Now to get the other studs out. Before, I pounded them out with a hammer, but had the axle removed. It seems not a good idea to pound them out while the axle is installed, like it might damage the c clip or other parts in the dif. I'd rather not take that all apart, but if I have to I will. What is the best way to remove studs?

 

[icorradoi]

My dorman part number was 610-244...M12-1.50 - 14.22mm Knurl, 37mm Length. 44.5mm length should do it, so I will probably order those. Great info, thanks.

edit: the Knurl is slightly bigger...that will make it more difficult to install, correct?

Now to get the other studs out. Before, I pounded them out with a hammer, but had the axle removed. It seems not a good idea to pound them out while the axle is installed, like it might damage the c clip or other parts in the dif. I'd rather not take that all apart, but if I have to I will. What is the best way to remove studs?

It might be able to take a pounding, but I would remove the diff cover and pull the axles out. I removed my studs with a huge press and even then it took a bit of effort as they were rusted to the axle. Install wasn't terrible. Same as any other wheel stud i've ever installed.

 

[icorradoi]

Oh, awesome build by the way!

 

[Curtice]

ok, doing some digging. Here are some other options:

Toyota PN 90942-02078: 55mm length, 14.20 knurl
Toyota PN 90942-02079: 44mm length, ?? knurl (but others have used them on FJ40s)

I think I might go the 55mm length just to avoid any more hassle. The 14.2 is pretty much exactly the same knurl diameter as I have now, so should be good.

 

[Curtice]

This picture helps too. I need to make sure the non threaded portion of the long one isn’t too long. If it is, I might do the arp one.

 

[Curtice]

I ordered the ARP studs. I measured for the Toyota longer ones and I think the non threaded part of the shaft will be too long. These ARP ones will be quite long, but that’s ok.

One other question on this...how important is the brake drum retaining screw? I don’t see how the wheel can sit flush against the drum with it there. Seems like it wouldn’t be necessary. (I’m kind of regretting getting aftermarket drums).

 

[mattressking]

If the hole in the drum isn't countersunk, it won't work as you found. The wheel mounting surface needs to be flat. The retaining screw isn't necessary, but if you want it to work, you'd have to countersink the hole then get the correct flat head screw for it. The wheel/wheel nuts keep the drum in place, along wit the the shoes once they are bedded in.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks. I’m probably just going to leave it off rather than go to the trouble of countersinking it.

In the meantime, powder coated a few more parts. Have I said I love powder coat?

 

[Curtice]

Got the new lug studs. Guess I don’t have to worry if they will be long enough lol.

I also decided to countersink the drum brake screw. Worked out well and everything installed. I had to remove the axles after all because the studs were too long to fit against the backing plate. Still, didn’t take too long.

and it standing on its own now!

 

[Curtice]

Started work on the jump seats, because I wanted to something a bit different, even though this isn't needed right now. I picked up a set of new seats from Icon. They look slightly different and are built slightly different, but are the same dimensions as oem. I got to work drilling the holes for screws to hold the covers down. Then powder coated it using Vegas Gold from Prismatic Powders. Each seat barely fits in the oven, but it will work! It is a good, close color to the Toyota pewter. Then got the cover installed. Need to do this 3 more times, for each section of the jump seat.

 

[Curtice]

ok, need some real time help if anyone can. Finally getting around to replacing my differential drive pinion seals. Starting with the rear...got everything pulled. Race is still smooth, bearing seems in good shape (picture below). I have a couple questions:
1) The whole drive pinion is loose and kind of just resting on the bottom of the housing. Is that normal? If I put the bearing back in, it doesn't feel like it seats properly in the race. Is it possible for the drive pinion to "come apart"? How do I know everything is in its proper place? I wanted to just replace the seal, and not do a full diff rebuild at this point.

2) I thought I would have adjusting shims behind the bearing, but I don't see any. Does this just mean that when the preload was set previously, that no shims were needed?

Some pictures:

 

[BRShap]

Also, Steve at SMS Headliners hooked me up with some front door panels to match my interior upholstery. I think they turned out great:

View attachment 2307181

These are sick! What are they made of?

 

[Curtice]

These are sick! What are they made of?

My seat covers are from Cruiser Corps. They also sell the same fabric by the yard. So I asked Steve at SMS, who makes repro door panels, if he would make a set if I sent him this fabric. He did and they turned out great.

smsheadliners

Welcome to smsheadliners's webstore - view here all of the listings from our eBay store!

smsheadliners.webstoreplace.com

 

[-MaTTi-]

My seat covers are from Cruiser Corps. They also sell the same fabric by the yard. So I asked Steve at SMS, who makes repro door panels, if he would make a set if I sent him this fabric. He did and they turned out great.

smsheadliners

Welcome to smsheadliners's webstore - view here all of the listings from our eBay store!

smsheadliners.webstoreplace.com

So this might be a little different color: FJ40 , FJ45 Land Cruiser Door Panels - Pair...Color Tan

 

[YvesNL]

ok, need some real time help if anyone can. Finally getting around to replacing my differential drive pinion seals. Starting with the rear...got everything pulled. Race is still smooth, bearing seems in good shape (picture below). I have a couple questions:
1) The whole drive pinion is loose and kind of just resting on the bottom of the housing. Is that normal? If I put the bearing back in, it doesn't feel like it seats properly in the race. Is it possible for the drive pinion to "come apart"? How do I know everything is in its proper place? I wanted to just replace the seal, and not do a full diff rebuild at this point.

2) I thought I would have adjusting shims behind the bearing, but I don't see any. Does this just mean that when the preload was set previously, that no shims were needed?

1) When you take off the drive flange there is nothing keeping the pinion in it's place, so it will be loose. The drive flange presses on the outer pinion bearing and pulls on the inner pinion bearing. Once you mount the flange you will pull everything back in place and the bearings will seat the races. If you want to try this without possibly destroying your new seal you can just put the flange on and tighten the nut, you will see that everything will seat ok again (if it was ok). Once you've got that peace of mind you can put in the seal and move on.

2) The preload is set with a crush tube in these toyota diffs, not shims (correct me if I'm wrong).