Builds 78 body off restore (cruiser #2) (2 Viewers)

[dmaddox]

The plating is awesome. Sorry to ask, but I also have some plating I need to do, what did you request and what kind of shop would I look for? Gold zinc? Is it expensive?

thank you!

 

[tls3601]

Thanks! Here’s some more! From today...

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Did you have many of those fasteners yellow zinc plated or were you able to find new fasteners from Metric Overland? Thanks Tom

 

[Curtice]

The plating is awesome. Sorry to ask, but I also have some plating I need to do, what did you request and what kind of shop would I look for? Gold zinc? Is it expensive?

thank you!

I did cadmium plating. It is supposed to hold up much better over time than zinc. I just called around to a couple local plating shops from google maps. Some shops didn’t want to take on smaller jobs for people like me. The one I went with was great, but was a bit spendy. I think it might be the area I live in though. But it looks awesome.

 

[Curtice]

Did you have many of those fasteners yellow zinc plated or were you able to find new fasteners from Metric Overland? Thanks Tom

Both. I bought a kit from Overland Metric, but also had a batch of hardware plated...more of the specialty parts, but also some standard sizes.

 

[Curtice]

Bolted on a couple items. Spent time today dealing with Autozone. I decided to get reman calipers rather than rebuild, since the price after core was only like $35. Bolted up one of the calipers the other day, but the drivers side didn’t fit. The gap for the rotor was too small.

So I took it back and after a series of calls, they realized it was put together incorrectly. One of the caliper sides was from an incorrect caliper. I was like, “uh guys, these are my brakes. What if it was wrong but I didn’t notice. That’s how people die”. Anyway, got a new one that works, but am slightly worried...

couple more pics

 

[69LC]

Wow! Nice work. I promised my wife I'd sell my daughter's 72 2FE (dead project) when I get home from tdy, but I might just have to put it into off property storage for a bit and ask for forgiveness later!

I like your door hinges on the '80 btw!

 

[Curtice]

Wow! Nice work. I promised my wife I'd sell my daughter's 72 2FE (dead project) when I get home from tdy, but I might just have to put it into off property storage for a bit and ask for forgiveness later!

I like your door hinges on the '80 btw!

Right! Funny, totally forgot who I bought the quick hinges from. They are awesome!

 

[69LC]

I can't wait to finally get them on and keep them on my truck. I've had sets on and off so many times from R & D and needing a set to sell I can't recall.

 

[dmaddox]

Really enjoying following your build, while working on mine. What you are doing is helping inspire me to ensure I am "diving deep enough" to do my project as correct as yours. While I am going for as bone stock OEM as I can, the level of detail is killer - keep it up man!

 

[Curtice]

Some real time help. Putting my shocks on today. Below are a couple pics. Does this look correct?

Is the nut on the top mount supposed to be a castle nut? It wasn’t on what I took off, but the shock pin does have a cotter pin hole. The axle side pin does not have a cotter pin hole.

 

[tls3601]

I know the rear ones use castle nuts in upper and lower with cotter pins as well, both still available from Toyota. Hope this helps

 

[Curtice]

Thanks! I looked on toyodiy and it shows what you said...castle on rear, but not on front. So that’s what I will do.

 

[tls3601]

Wish I could verify the fronts but rig is up North. Send me a PM to remind me to check, mine is also a ‘78 and I will be up there near the end of the long weekend.Tom

 

[Curtice]

Cool. Lower rear shock mounts on the ubolt plate do not have a cotter pin hole. So that answers that

 

[Curtice]

I’m going to do castle nuts on the upper pins for both front and rear, since I can.

In the meantime, worked on installing some of Rainman’s awesome brake lines.

Also, got some work done on the engine. Installed the oil pump, oil pan, and bolted the head on.

 

[dmaddox]

Super clean, fantastic work.

 

[Curtice]

Super clean, fantastic work.

thanks! I hope I can keep it up when I get to the body work.

 

[dmaddox]

Oh you know it will be fun. Nice shop too. Life happens and I went from a 100x60 with a full down draft paint booth to a van down by the river, but slowly working my way back to an awesome setup like you have! Very cool.

 

[Curtice]

Body work scares me. I don’t even know where to start to install my new 1/2 tub (delivered in about a month), rockers, and front floor pans. But, I’ll figure it out I’m sure. I’m also sure it will involve lots of swearing and redos of mistakes.

 

[Curtice]

Some brake line tech from today. Maybe this is common knowledge, but took me some time to figure it out and is weird.

I bought stainless steel brake lines from SOR. For the axles to frame rail line, I could not tell which one was front and which was rear. They were almost the same length, but one of them had longer male threads than the other (for the axle T bracket axle side):

The caliper to axle lines both sealed with a copper washer. So I thought these would be the same. What I discovered was the front does not seal with a copper washer, but the rear one does. The T bracket for the front has a different type of connection than the rear one. If you look inside the fittings, you can see a cone shape protruding out on the front bracket, but not on the rear bracket. Pictures -

Front bracket - look inside and you can see the cone shape:

Rear bracket - look inside and it is flat...no cone shape:

So for the rear, you need to seal with a copper washer. For the front, it seals on the inside - the cone shape fits into the reverse cone shape on the brake line. It does not tighten up all the way like the rear.

Front:

Rear:

I have no idea why they are different. Seems strange and confusing.