Builds 78 body off restore (cruiser #2) (1 Viewer)

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Where have you been getting your plating done? I chose to paint a lot of my parts instead of playing because I was getting “minimum charge” quotes of $350+ for misc brackets and stuff.
 
I went to Queen City Plating in Mukilteo. I had the same problem as you when trying to find a good place. Everywhere is expensive. But this place did a good job and have good service. But...$$$.
 
Thanks. I’ve used Queen City in the past. Didn’t even call this time because I figured they’d be pricey, but always been pleased with their work. I guess the next one I’ll do plating...
 
And a few other engine related odds and ends.

The AC belt has an idler pulley. It has a bolt through it and a “dust cover” that is NLA. My dust cover is messed up and if I install it, the pulley will not rotate. If I mount the pulley without the dust cover, it is fine. So that is what I did but if anyone reading this thinks bad idea, let me know :)
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I’m still working through some desmog details and what is needed and what isn’t. Have had some questions on the BVSV valve that mounts in the T-housing.
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From what I gather, the two vacuum lines are for controlling the check valve for the charcoal canister and the other is EGR related. Since I won’t have EGR, I capped the top fitting and am running a vacuum line from the bottom fitting - this will go to that check valve since I do plan to run a charcoal canister still. The vacuum hose runs by the distributor and I will run it alongside the fuel return line with a hose separator. You can see it here:
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Also installed a new reverse light switch in the transmission:
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Last item is a question. I’m trying to figure out the brake booster vacuum hose. This picture is from my other 3FE. It is two hoses with some sort of fitting connecting them. I don’t know what I need for my new engine. Can I just run a hose from the booster to the intake? Or do I need whatever that middle fitting thing is?
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Hey, not sure if you figured out your question on the brake booster line, but that is a check valve and is necessary for correct function of your brake booster.
 
Question i've also been powder coating but I've avoided using it in high heat areas. Is the powder coating on the exhaust manifold going to hold up to the high temps?

we shall see. I didn’t coat the manifold or headers...those have high heat paint. I did coat the heat shields though. I’m thinking (hoping) the shields don’t get AS hot.
 
Finally got the tub painted. Fenders too. This was huge and a nice reward for the almost a year of body work, fitment problems, rebuild, welding (learning), sanding, sanding, sanding...etc. it looks really good. I’m super pleased.

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What color is that?

Arles Blue. There is one or two other cruisers on the forum with it and I really liked it. I wanted to go cadet blue like several other folks, but wanted something a bit bluer and this was just exactly what I envisioned.
 
So my curse and continued fight with painting continues. We baked it in the booth after we were done painting. Then loaded it on the trailer to take it home. I was trying to protect the fenders from scratches, so laid the edges on a small towel for cushion. Well - the paint was still a bit tacky I guess and I ended up with this:

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:bang: A similar problem on the tub on the bottom of the rocker panels where it was sitting on a blanket, tho not as big a deal there since it will be under the running board. Luckily, my buddy said shouldn't be too hard to cut and buff. I hope its ok...I guess worst case scenario is sand it down and repaint the panel, which wouldn't be too bad.

Also, realized I didn't post pics of the seam seal, which I did the night before paint.
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Thanks. I was thinking the opposite and maybe it would be easier or better to try to get off before it fully cures. I’m not too worried, but was irritated.
 
Question for those who have repaired/refurbished the wiring harness. My initial instinct was just to rebuild it completely. I figured 40 year old wires are probably end of life. But is that true? In tearing into my harness, there are some obvious repairs needed. But if a wire doesn’t seem brittle and has continuity, do I need to replace it? Would like to hear what others have done.
 
Lizard Skin sound deadener today. It goes on pretty easy, but dry time for me was about 6 hours (not the suggested 30-60 minutes...to let it dry between coats). It’s kind of humid here today and this is a water based product. At least that’s what I figure as why.

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trans hump:
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Also did the gas tank in case the in tank pump is noisy, hopefully this will help.

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Close up of the texture if anyone wondered. It does seem to flatten out more than this as it dries.

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Ceramic insulation yesterday and raptor lined today.

The most tedious part was untaping and retaping between each product. Don’t know if I needed to do that but got worried about peeling dry stuff off. Anyway, finally all done with the tub work.

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