Builds 76 Project Silver Back

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Nicely done sir!
I really like running across threads that are far along like this so’s I don’t have to wait for next update.....
Kinda like recording something off TV so you can skip past the commercials :grinpimp:
 
Studs showed up.

First off you are doing an amazing job, your 40 looks awesome and you are truly gifted!

Now for my question where did you buy the studs from and are they longer than stock? I'm running the same rear brake setup and would like to get some longer studs.

Thanks Josh
 
Thanks, I think there’s a total of four.

These? See pic below.

I have 4 I can spare. The heads aren’t perfect and those nuts need removing...they must’ve gotten threaded on during plating. I did not attempt to remove them but they should come loose just need caution with the JIS heads.

ECD245DB-8882-4ABF-890C-B7EBEC3E0469.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: SMG
So I know this is a little anal, but I don’t like seeing rust streaks coming from my hinges.
I decide to take apart my bib hinge and replace the pin with a stainless one.

Once I had the hinge apart, I was able to clean up the bores then powder coat each piece separately. This should help with rust forming inside the joint.

Keep in mind, my bib hinge was nasty and I didn’t like the idea of spraying paint on a part that pivots.

The pin was turned on my Lathe and is the exact same width as the hinge body so no matter how much you tighten the bolts, it can’t pinch the hinge tight.

I know, I’m a crazy machinist by heart. :D

5724AA83-5298-475A-BC18-9F6FB0FE9F1D.jpeg

0886D3D5-54DF-43CA-B6CB-EEDF71E705B0.jpeg

1696AF60-3D0F-43D2-9B16-8BC0FEF31170.jpeg
 
I have your other hinge pins and they are awesome. If you decide to start selling those bib pins I'll take one.


Thanks for the nice comments.

I thought about it. I’m worried that it would be hard for some people to remove the original pin. I had to grind the welds on both sides to remove it.
 
Thread update:

Some of these pics have been posted in other threads

B-pillar has been cut, bent and welded back together to match the late model doors. I decided to cut the front bow sides that normally goes through the B-pillar. I removed about 10” on each side the welded a stub end to the bottom. This will allow me to make height adjustments much easier by only moving the top section of the bow and not have to fight the new bend. I also welded a nut to the top of each pillar this will allow me to run a screw into the bow once the final height has been set.
1903627

1903626

1903628
 
The Real Steel Bow Kit doesn’t come with the rear corner braces. I tried locating some 1” pipe straps from Home Depot but didn’t like how thin and flimsy they were so I decided to make some myself.
These are made out of 11 gage ( probably overkill )
1903645

1903644

1903643

1903646
 
That reminds me, I’ve got another box to dig out. :)
 
The Real Steel Bow Kit doesn’t come with the rear corner braces. I tried locating some 1” pipe straps from Home Depot but didn’t like how thin and flimsy they were so I decided to make some myself.
These are made out of 11 gage ( probably overkill )

My real steel bow kit came with those, but it was just the conduit straps. like you show Can you tell us how you formed the 11ga? I want to do the same.
 
My real steel bow kit came with those, but it was just the conduit straps. like you show Can you tell us how you formed the 11ga? I want to do the same.

These were bent on a press brake with a 1” round die. I figured since I was set up I might as well make extras just for this reason. I left the legs long so they can be cut to size. You will have to tweak the big radius to fit your tub and drill for the holes. I just used a bench vise for the little bit of tweaking.
Send me a PM.
1903842
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom