OlYellr
SILVER Star
I will make house calls for beerNerd
Builds 76 FJ40 in South Texas
- Thread starter South Texas 97
- Start date
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South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #142
I have the same thing - when I stop for gas, record the odometer mileage and then how many gallons of gas are put in the truck. Looks like I need a factor to deal with the mileage - looks like a factor of 1.1 on the miles should do the trick.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I used to use the speedo/trip odo and the mile markers on the interstate to figure accuracy . Travel 10 miles per the mile markers. When you start ref the odometer #, travel 10 miles per mile markers and ref the odometer again. Now do the math to determine what the correction factor is. I had to do this with one of my tow rigs to get the correct fuel mileage. Now a days with my 40, I just use an app on my phone as a speedo which records mile traveled too.
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #144
Picked up some OEM engine and gearbox mount kit from SOR. It came with new hardware, although the original hardware was still good.
A couple of 17mm and 19mm wrenches and sockets, as well as a jack and some wood spacers was almost all I needed. A 2 hour job. Everything came apart pretty easily. Chocked the wheels, removed all the engine mount and gearbox mount bolts.
The only tough one was the drivers side which goes directly into the chassis. And the exhaust pipe almost blocks the access.
You can just see the nut inside the frame.
I was able to get a 19mm wrench inside the frame and use a ratchet on the top to undo the bolt.
To up the new one on, I taped the washer and nut to the wrench and sneak it back inside the frame.
Original mount was 22mm, new mount was 30mm.
To get the motor/transmission high enough to fit the new mount, a 2x4 about 18 inches long was used with a floor jack. The 2x 4 was end on against the block where the oil pan bolts to the block. Being end grain, the oil pan edge and bolt dig into the 2x4 holding it fairly firm. I make sure not to have fingers under the mounts at all, using a wire brush to clean them off.
I used a similar method on the 97 Series 80.
A couple of 17mm and 19mm wrenches and sockets, as well as a jack and some wood spacers was almost all I needed. A 2 hour job. Everything came apart pretty easily. Chocked the wheels, removed all the engine mount and gearbox mount bolts.
The only tough one was the drivers side which goes directly into the chassis. And the exhaust pipe almost blocks the access.
You can just see the nut inside the frame.
I was able to get a 19mm wrench inside the frame and use a ratchet on the top to undo the bolt.
To up the new one on, I taped the washer and nut to the wrench and sneak it back inside the frame.
Original mount was 22mm, new mount was 30mm.
To get the motor/transmission high enough to fit the new mount, a 2x4 about 18 inches long was used with a floor jack. The 2x 4 was end on against the block where the oil pan bolts to the block. Being end grain, the oil pan edge and bolt dig into the 2x4 holding it fairly firm. I make sure not to have fingers under the mounts at all, using a wire brush to clean them off.
I used a similar method on the 97 Series 80.
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #145
Getting ready for a Sniper install, and decided to go with 3/8 stainless steel lines. The 76 has a return line which is currently blocked off, so will just have to open this back up. I have left both ends of the lines long, so will bend and cut appropriately when the install is being done. The stainless tube was a bit of a challenge to straighten out, it comes in a roll about 18 inches in diameter. Bought a 3/8 pipe bender, a pipe cutter, a straightening tool and small tool to put a bubble inside the tube for the soft line to clamp on to. It came out ok. Also made a small bracket for the fuel filter which is a larger diameter than the standard filter.
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #147
And here we go. Holley Sniper install. I have been gathering parts and pieces for a while now. Let’s see how far we get.
Started by removing the battery and tray to give some access.
The mechanical fuel pump was rebuilt last year, and removing the battery and tray gives lots of access.
Picked up a block off plate from redline.
Cleaned up the area first.
Might need to add a stand off for the fuel and return line to one of these bolts.
Found a spot for the O2 sensor for now. At some point will replace the headers and go back to a standard manifold and exhaust system but for now, this should work. From quite a bit of reading the Holley folks don’t consider the 2F to be particularly critical where the O2 sensor goes.
The Sniper kit came with 3/8 gates green stripe fuel hose, so pulled out the existing 12mm hard lines. And ran the fuel and return hose generally in the same place. They are covered in an abrasion resistant cover.
Picked up a heat shield from Mark. Fits perfectly
Wires everywhere but I have learned not to panic!
Started by removing the battery and tray to give some access.
The mechanical fuel pump was rebuilt last year, and removing the battery and tray gives lots of access.
Picked up a block off plate from redline.
Cleaned up the area first.
Might need to add a stand off for the fuel and return line to one of these bolts.
Found a spot for the O2 sensor for now. At some point will replace the headers and go back to a standard manifold and exhaust system but for now, this should work. From quite a bit of reading the Holley folks don’t consider the 2F to be particularly critical where the O2 sensor goes.
The Sniper kit came with 3/8 gates green stripe fuel hose, so pulled out the existing 12mm hard lines. And ran the fuel and return hose generally in the same place. They are covered in an abrasion resistant cover.
Picked up a heat shield from Mark. Fits perfectly
Wires everywhere but I have learned not to panic!
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #148
The O2 sensor is in and protected with some heat shield
While installing the water temp sensor in the second mounting point. When I removed the bung, expecting cool and to run out, and nothing. Poked at it with a small pick and finally got it flowing, obviously blocked with rust deposits. Was thinking to remove the standpipe, but the bottom threads look very rusty and am concerned it will simply snap off.
Might swap the temp sensors
While installing the water temp sensor in the second mounting point. When I removed the bung, expecting cool and to run out, and nothing. Poked at it with a small pick and finally got it flowing, obviously blocked with rust deposits. Was thinking to remove the standpipe, but the bottom threads look very rusty and am concerned it will simply snap off.
Might swap the temp sensors
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Love the work!
Question, why are you going back to stock exhaust and ditch the header? I ask cuz I think about going with a header from time to time.
Question, why are you going back to stock exhaust and ditch the header? I ask cuz I think about going with a header from time to time.
RevISK
SILVER Star
You should squeeze in a sniper install
.@South Texas 97 do you have a shopping list of parts used you could post up?
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Ian @RevISK, you know me well.You should squeeze in a sniper install
@South Texas 97 do you have a shopping list of parts used you could post up?
The header @Green Bean got is what I am looking at. Has the O2 bung already-
Green Bean
SILVER Star
@OlYellr Come on in the water is fine. However, sadly the headers are mere wall art, pending figuring out the logistics for getting an exhaust. Unfortunately, we live a very long way from any exhaust custom shops and the kit that's specifically designed for the 40's hasn't yet been released. 
Just to get this off of dead-center, I'm currently exploring having the vehicle flat towed to/from an exhaust shop in Houston.
Just to get this off of dead-center, I'm currently exploring having the vehicle flat towed to/from an exhaust shop in Houston.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Yeah, I’ve been sleuthing for the same here. Not just a header, but need a new exhaust soonish. Found two places.@OlYellr Come on in the water is fine. However, sadly the headers are mere wall art, pending figuring out the logistics for getting an exhaust. Unfortunately, we live a very long way from any exhaust custom shops and the kit that's specifically designed for the 40's hasn't yet been released.
I’m confident the solution they come with won’t work for 79 and newer.
Get a muffler, and bite the bullet. You could bring it up here… turns out Russ does that.
Digressing as to not hi-jack this thread (could put the debate on my thread), interested in @South Texas 97 thought as to not go this way with a header. I have no experience with one.
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #154
Knowing we are going with an in tank fuel pump, I put some standoffs on the pax seat, lifted it up 1.25 inches.
In a sort of while I am in there moment, my rebuilt clutch master was leaking again, not much but annoying so picked up a cityracer replacement, along with a new brake booster. The old booster was working, but when I had if off for cleaning, could hear liquid sloshing around. It actually worked out well, as having the booster, and clutch master out of the way gave lots of space to run the new accelerator cable.
Holley says a clean 12 volt switched supply for the pink wire, and as I have my running lights and alternator sense wire running from the windshield washer supply, what you see in the bottom right of the picture is a relay and a small distribution box. 12 volts direct from the battery the relay is driven from the windshield washer supply, which puts 12 volts to the fuse panel. A clean, switched and fused 12 volt supply.
The kit provides a relay and 30 amp fuse for the in tank fuel pump. Ran the wire back to the tank inside some abrasion resistant loom, and ran a ground from the ground point under the pax seat on the frame where the fuel level sensor ground it located.
Pulled the tank, which has been out before. So it was not in terrible shape. There was some light rust inside the tank, so used 2 gallons of distilled white vinegar, sloshed it around for about 15 minutes and let it sit overnight.
Marked up where the baffles where and the highest point of the fuel sender. The in tank pump has a 3.25 inch diameter, with another 3/4 inch flange on top. There are 5 bolts that have a cam on them, when you tighten the bolt, the cam extends and pulls up against the tank, compressing the large foam ring.
To prevent explosions, which I am allergic to, filled the tank with water
And just like that a big hole in the tank.
Drained out all the water and mopped out the tank. Another two gallons of vinegar overnight, rinsed this out and scrubbed as best I could.
Let it dry, much better but still some rust, but better than before. The tank is 9.5 inches at the deepest point, so had to adjust the in tank pump and return to be just above the bottom of the tank.
The cover of the tank needs to be modified to allow for the top flange of the pump. Had some welting (?) to protect the raw metal edge from a previous project. It came out pretty nice.
The original outlet for the mechanical fuel pump is gravity fed, and there is a return line in the side of the tank. I used a piece of 12mm fuel line, and a piece of steel rod to make a slug to block both ports.
In a sort of while I am in there moment, my rebuilt clutch master was leaking again, not much but annoying so picked up a cityracer replacement, along with a new brake booster. The old booster was working, but when I had if off for cleaning, could hear liquid sloshing around. It actually worked out well, as having the booster, and clutch master out of the way gave lots of space to run the new accelerator cable.
Holley says a clean 12 volt switched supply for the pink wire, and as I have my running lights and alternator sense wire running from the windshield washer supply, what you see in the bottom right of the picture is a relay and a small distribution box. 12 volts direct from the battery the relay is driven from the windshield washer supply, which puts 12 volts to the fuse panel. A clean, switched and fused 12 volt supply.
The kit provides a relay and 30 amp fuse for the in tank fuel pump. Ran the wire back to the tank inside some abrasion resistant loom, and ran a ground from the ground point under the pax seat on the frame where the fuel level sensor ground it located.
Pulled the tank, which has been out before. So it was not in terrible shape. There was some light rust inside the tank, so used 2 gallons of distilled white vinegar, sloshed it around for about 15 minutes and let it sit overnight.
Marked up where the baffles where and the highest point of the fuel sender. The in tank pump has a 3.25 inch diameter, with another 3/4 inch flange on top. There are 5 bolts that have a cam on them, when you tighten the bolt, the cam extends and pulls up against the tank, compressing the large foam ring.
To prevent explosions, which I am allergic to, filled the tank with water
And just like that a big hole in the tank.
Drained out all the water and mopped out the tank. Another two gallons of vinegar overnight, rinsed this out and scrubbed as best I could.
Let it dry, much better but still some rust, but better than before. The tank is 9.5 inches at the deepest point, so had to adjust the in tank pump and return to be just above the bottom of the tank.
The cover of the tank needs to be modified to allow for the top flange of the pump. Had some welting (?) to protect the raw metal edge from a previous project. It came out pretty nice.
The original outlet for the mechanical fuel pump is gravity fed, and there is a return line in the side of the tank. I used a piece of 12mm fuel line, and a piece of steel rod to make a slug to block both ports.
Last edited:
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #155
This is the end result with the tank back in the truck and plumbed and wired up.
Will leave the pax seat out until we are up and running
Top line is a vent, middle is fuel delivery, bottom is return, I capped off the old vent that went up to the charcoal canister, and used the one on the in tank pump.
Will leave the pax seat out until we are up and running
Top line is a vent, middle is fuel delivery, bottom is return, I capped off the old vent that went up to the charcoal canister, and used the one on the in tank pump.
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #156
Thought I should test the clean 12 volt source. Per Holley it needs 12 volts while cranking. The washer is not live while cranking. So looking at the diagram, a black with yellow stripe which is available from the emissions plug on the left hand fender. This goes all the way over to the starter. So switched the feed to trigger the relay from 12 volts at the battery, to the pink wire for the Sniper.
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #157
Well, finished up the wiring and the fuel lines for the in tank fuel pump, filled it with gas, and followed the wizard to set it up. Cycled power and cranked it over. It cranked fine, but would not start.
Pro tip: reconnect the coil to distributor wire.
It started right up and went to a high idle. After it hit 160 degrees, made a small adjustment to the idle screw, and bought the idle back to around 620 RPM.
Took it for a short drive to fill up with gas, runs fine. And is in learn mode.
However, the amp meter now pegs at >30 with about 2000 rpm. And drops back to just above zero at idle. Rather than blowing something up, short drive back to the house, and hit the books to see if I can figure out what’s wrong. I suspect the voltage sense wire for the alternator is connected to the wrong source.
The volt meter I have installed shows 13v at idle going up to 14v more or less at 2000rpm.
Pro tip: reconnect the coil to distributor wire.
It started right up and went to a high idle. After it hit 160 degrees, made a small adjustment to the idle screw, and bought the idle back to around 620 RPM.
Took it for a short drive to fill up with gas, runs fine. And is in learn mode.
However, the amp meter now pegs at >30 with about 2000 rpm. And drops back to just above zero at idle. Rather than blowing something up, short drive back to the house, and hit the books to see if I can figure out what’s wrong. I suspect the voltage sense wire for the alternator is connected to the wrong source.
The volt meter I have installed shows 13v at idle going up to 14v more or less at 2000rpm.
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #158
Fuel lines
Did my best to keep them away from the hot hoses, not so much worries about the return line, but the fuel feed should stay cool as possible.
The accelerator cable has a nice feel to it. It’s a Lokar 36 inch.
I will have to get used to the new brake booster. What a difference. Just a light pedal touch and it stops on a dime. Will need to look more at the rear drums, I suspect they are not adjusted correctly.
Clutch feels about the same, but does not leak on my shoes now.
Did my best to keep them away from the hot hoses, not so much worries about the return line, but the fuel feed should stay cool as possible.
The accelerator cable has a nice feel to it. It’s a Lokar 36 inch.
I will have to get used to the new brake booster. What a difference. Just a light pedal touch and it stops on a dime. Will need to look more at the rear drums, I suspect they are not adjusted correctly.
Clutch feels about the same, but does not leak on my shoes now.
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #159
Was worried about the high amp draw, 30 amps pretty continuous. Although the gauge is not super precise.
Took the battery to the local parts shop and it load tested as good.
I picked up a cheap digital amp meter, and experimented a bit.
Put it on the alternator feed directly, 25 amps
Battery on the fusible link and sniper b+ about the same.
Then decided to install the amp meter directly on the wire going to the amp meter on the original gauge. Unplugged the negative battery lead, pulled the instrument cluster and installed the amp sensor.
Installed directly on the alternator
My conclusion is the current draw is higher, due to the sniper and in tank fuel pump. (It has a 30 amp fuse as an indication of the draw).
For now will leave the digital amp meter installed, but I think I can pull the mini auto meter gauges as oil pressure, volts, and water temp is available elsewhere.
Took the battery to the local parts shop and it load tested as good.
I picked up a cheap digital amp meter, and experimented a bit.
Put it on the alternator feed directly, 25 amps
Battery on the fusible link and sniper b+ about the same.
Then decided to install the amp meter directly on the wire going to the amp meter on the original gauge. Unplugged the negative battery lead, pulled the instrument cluster and installed the amp sensor.
Installed directly on the alternator
My conclusion is the current draw is higher, due to the sniper and in tank fuel pump. (It has a 30 amp fuse as an indication of the draw).
For now will leave the digital amp meter installed, but I think I can pull the mini auto meter gauges as oil pressure, volts, and water temp is available elsewhere.
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #160
Well, after testing for a few 100 miles, I planned my drive to Ouray Colorado, was on the wait list for Solid Axle Summit 8, and decided to go anyway. Keeping off the freeways, as I feel comfortable with 2300 -2500 rpm or around 50-55 mph, decided to do about 300 miles per day, around 7 hour’s drive with fuel stops. Keeping an eye on my fuel consumption was getting around 14 mpg, a definite improvement over the old Holley carb.
Between Abilene and Roswell NM, it died on me around 10 times, the AFR went to 35 and the engine just died, and I coasted to a stop. Noticed the coolant temp was around 185-187. Tried an immediate restart, it would crank but not fire. So waited 30 minutes with the hood up and it cooled enough to restart. Turn the key to the run position and can hear the in tank pump cycle, and then a gurgling sound. Could usually get another 30 minutes drive and it would die again. A slow drive across the llano estancado.
Did some research that night, and it took me a while, but found a similar situation on the Holley sniper forum. Roswell to Pagosa Springs was mostly ok as I left early in the morning to avoid the heat, and then Pagosa to Ouray. On the way through Durango there was a Cars and Coffee event with members of the 4 corners cruisers.
That was very cool and unexpected!
Went on to Montrose and bought 3/8 fuel line and the next morning re routed the pressure side, it mostly solved the issue, but not quite. Still would stop occasionally, so rerouted the return line as well, as I noticed the heat shield under the sniper has two cutouts that direct hot air from the exhaust directly on the the return line AN fitting.
And added some header wrap material in an attempt to cut down the heat. I have more on order to finish the job, and am waiting for a 120 degree fitting so the return line can get away from the engine as quickly as possible. It too will be wrapped.
Being on the Solid Axle Summit 8 wait list, I was adjacent, but not part of the group officially. One of the guys that stopped to see if I was ok on the side of the road was at the KOA, and everyone was very friendly and welcoming. I was uncomfortable joining the various trips they had running until I resolved all the issues.
After getting the fuel lines re routed, went for a drive towards Silverton, and my brakes locked up! All of them. It turns out when I replaced the brake booster, the little shaft that drives the master cylinder piston needs to be adjusted so it does not continuously push the piston, which is what happened to me. On the side of the road, removed the four bolts holding the master to the booster and adjusted the rod. After letting everything cool down, that problem was resolved as well.
As my confidence grew, made it to Yankee Joe, Animas forks, Imogene Pass, Engineer pass, hurricane pass, and went up corkscrew gulch with Dennis, Ellen and Alec.
For navigation in the area the CoTrex app from the Colorado department of natural resources was perfect. You can download specific parts of the map to work off line and record your trip. Very good app.
Clear Lake looking down on the clouds
Going up to Ophir Pass, looking down in the valley, this must be some type of thermal vent running into the stream.
At the top of Imogene pass, on the way back down came across a late 40’s flat fender jeep, fully restored with three guys, and a roll bar with bar tread tires on its way up. They were impressed with my FJ40, as I was with their flat fender.
The trip back to Houston was completely uneventful Santa Fe, Lubbock, Llano and Houston.
Time to clean everything up, redo the temporary fuel lines, and a lubricant change all around, I suspect this is the longest trip this truck has ever done, 2400 miles there and back, plus probably another 500 in and around Ouray, Silverton and Montrose during the week.
Between Abilene and Roswell NM, it died on me around 10 times, the AFR went to 35 and the engine just died, and I coasted to a stop. Noticed the coolant temp was around 185-187. Tried an immediate restart, it would crank but not fire. So waited 30 minutes with the hood up and it cooled enough to restart. Turn the key to the run position and can hear the in tank pump cycle, and then a gurgling sound. Could usually get another 30 minutes drive and it would die again. A slow drive across the llano estancado.
Did some research that night, and it took me a while, but found a similar situation on the Holley sniper forum. Roswell to Pagosa Springs was mostly ok as I left early in the morning to avoid the heat, and then Pagosa to Ouray. On the way through Durango there was a Cars and Coffee event with members of the 4 corners cruisers.
That was very cool and unexpected!
Went on to Montrose and bought 3/8 fuel line and the next morning re routed the pressure side, it mostly solved the issue, but not quite. Still would stop occasionally, so rerouted the return line as well, as I noticed the heat shield under the sniper has two cutouts that direct hot air from the exhaust directly on the the return line AN fitting.
And added some header wrap material in an attempt to cut down the heat. I have more on order to finish the job, and am waiting for a 120 degree fitting so the return line can get away from the engine as quickly as possible. It too will be wrapped.
Being on the Solid Axle Summit 8 wait list, I was adjacent, but not part of the group officially. One of the guys that stopped to see if I was ok on the side of the road was at the KOA, and everyone was very friendly and welcoming. I was uncomfortable joining the various trips they had running until I resolved all the issues.
After getting the fuel lines re routed, went for a drive towards Silverton, and my brakes locked up! All of them. It turns out when I replaced the brake booster, the little shaft that drives the master cylinder piston needs to be adjusted so it does not continuously push the piston, which is what happened to me. On the side of the road, removed the four bolts holding the master to the booster and adjusted the rod. After letting everything cool down, that problem was resolved as well.
As my confidence grew, made it to Yankee Joe, Animas forks, Imogene Pass, Engineer pass, hurricane pass, and went up corkscrew gulch with Dennis, Ellen and Alec.
For navigation in the area the CoTrex app from the Colorado department of natural resources was perfect. You can download specific parts of the map to work off line and record your trip. Very good app.
Clear Lake looking down on the clouds
Going up to Ophir Pass, looking down in the valley, this must be some type of thermal vent running into the stream.
At the top of Imogene pass, on the way back down came across a late 40’s flat fender jeep, fully restored with three guys, and a roll bar with bar tread tires on its way up. They were impressed with my FJ40, as I was with their flat fender.
The trip back to Houston was completely uneventful Santa Fe, Lubbock, Llano and Houston.
Time to clean everything up, redo the temporary fuel lines, and a lubricant change all around, I suspect this is the longest trip this truck has ever done, 2400 miles there and back, plus probably another 500 in and around Ouray, Silverton and Montrose during the week.
