74 PA PIG (1 Viewer)

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I just reread this thread, damn, that's a lot of metal work, and a whole lot of sanding! Looks great though. @NikP agree, I coat all my welds in short strand fibreglass before bondo (and always get good quality bondo) - approach seems to hold up well.

@smooth I painted mine a couple of months ago, went with a commercial paint. Its a little harder to spray (I got more orange peel than usual), but I can already tell its tougher than regular 2 stage - I am under time pressure to get the truck on her wheels so haven't gone back to color sand, but will eventually. It's also rated for direct metal application, although I did prime.

Interesting what others are doing. Can't say I have a lot of auto paint knowledge. We're going with the base coat /clear coat. Glad to hear it's holding up well.
 
Not BobM but will offer an opinion:

I believe the dark color roof on FJ55s encourage condensation up the A and B pillars when roof cools. The factory headliner is rubberized so traps moisture. I had my headliner made out of perforated material so breaths.

not really helpful advice since your headliner is already installed but just an observation why I think pig rooflines rust so badly.
These rusting PIG roofs are an interesting phenomenon. I think my PIG has already had one roof replacement in it's life. Don't know of another vehicle where the roofs consistently rust that severely?
 
We're using the Rust Converter / Primer Sealer on all bare metal, seam sealer where appropriate and POR15 in any accessible cavities. trying to touch every area we can.
the instructions on the metal prep for por15 state you need to wash it off with water.. that makes me nervous on bare metal. is that what ypu have done?
 
the instructions on the metal prep for por15 state you need to wash it off with water.. that makes me nervous on bare metal. is that what ypu have done?
We aren't using the POR15 on any bare metal/finish paint surfaces. Using epoxy primer and filler primer on all paintable surfaces. Using the POR15 underneath on new floor pans etc.
 
We aren't using the POR15 on any bare metal/finish paint surfaces. Using epoxy primer and filler primer on all paintable surfaces. Using the POR15 underneath on new floor pans etc.
AAahhh gotcha!

So you're confident the Epoxy primer is enough to protect patches, and any pin holes from welding? This is a struggle I've had for aaaggesss.. wanting to make sure my weldes arent the cause to introduce MORE rust (cos I'm an ok welder but better grinder)..

Thats why I wanted to find waterproof short hair fibreglass body filler, and when I couldn't it was suggested to paint over the welded patches with POR15 treatment, prior to body filler, etch primer, primer, paint..

I guess i'm still struggling with it all!
 
AAahhh gotcha!

So you're confident the Epoxy primer is enough to protect patches, and any pin holes from welding? This is a struggle I've had for aaaggesss.. wanting to make sure my weldes arent the cause to introduce MORE rust (cos I'm an ok welder but better grinder)..

Thats why I wanted to find waterproof short hair fibreglass body filler, and when I couldn't it was suggested to paint over the welded patches with POR15 treatment, prior to body filler, etch primer, primer, paint..

I guess i'm still struggling with it all!

I don't have enough experience to comment and certainly don't want to steer you in the wrong direction. Can appreciate your attention to detail. I usually dive right in and learn and adapt as I go. Right or wrong sometimes money and or time have an influence on how I do things.

I am on my third project, painted my 76 FJ40 eight years ago and the 86 FJ60 about three years ago. Both are holding up well. No issues and I do drive all my vehicles frequently.

Maybe someone with industry experience can be more helpful.
 
At this point the only parts left for bodywork are the upper fenders. They're in rough shape, it's another big project with a lot of work to do.

Because of time and weather we decided to get some paint on the body and work on the fenders at a later time. We may be burnt out on the bodywork? Or may be looking for something else to do?

Big day, bought the paint. Going with base coat / clear coat. This paint is like liquid gold. It cost more than I paid for the vehicle!\

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Can’t imagine why!

It’s all worth it in the end, but yes, my elbow feels your pain.

Just as much mental as it is physical. Thanks for encouragement RUSH55.
 
Remember we are doing this in my garage. Wish we had a paint booth. Rented a booth when we did the 60 but this project is too long with too many phases.

What does a man do? Build your own paint booth. Knowing it won't be ideal but working with what we got. No secret here, wrap the garage bay with poly, install a negative air fan, purchase additional LED lighting and wet floor keeping dust particles down and to a minimum.

Going with two tone color. First color; Toyota Super White.

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Picking a vehicle color is a big deal! We've had some fun with it at home. Had a contest with friends and family on what the colors may be. Nobody was allowed in the garage. No peeking. I have to say they know me pretty well, the color I picked was in the top two. My wife picked the 72 40, my son picked the 60, this one was my turn.

I typically lean toward the purist side but thought I would go out of my comfort zone with this one. The Pig already has a few mods SBC, power steering, overdrive, the front seat is not original . I'll be going with bucket seats. It's my version of a low level resto mod?

Stayed with a Toyota color,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Smoked Mesquite, Vintage Brown typically seen on the Tundra.

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I'll add better pictures throughout. It's too tight in the paint booth to get a good angle.
 
One of my favorite Toyota colors...can’t believe it never made it to the 200 Series.
 

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