74 fj40, What path to choose? Efi 1.5f or 5.3 v8 (1 Viewer)

[nitroid13]

I am at a crossroads with my 40, and looking for some insight and more information on both paths with my 40. 02 gmc 5.3 or sniper efi f1.5. Both are equally viable options, things to know about my 40 I believe it to be a factory fst, it has all the hallmarks. The body has around 170k+ miles. I do have another 40 that is all original 51k original miles but it's in "barn find" condition, but it does run and drive. so I have the "original" one. My goal for my 40's intended purpose is mainly trail riding and mild rock crawling but also have a few comforts to be able to be on the street. It will never be a fully restored original truck, nor do i have any plans for it to be original. But the ways it has been modified, it can be put back original for the most part. Ultimately i can use this efi kit on any one of the 3 40s i have so its not that big of a deal. so will have 2 more posts for more context on what I have and what I'm planning on buying depending on which route I go.

This is the most info I have ever released about my 40 in a post and I'm planning on a full build thread soon!!! And going through the full history of the 40 to the best of my knowledge

Original parts
• engine(rebuilt 2005) less than 10k miles but time is a factor as well.
• body tub
• axle housings, front diff, and axles
• frame

Toyota parts
• flywheel/clutch/transmission/split case fj60 (resealed 2017)
• fj60 disk brake outers
• fj60 dizzy and side cover
• 80 40 windshield frame
• stock fuel tank
• Drive shafts
• 72-74 carb, stock intake, and 6to1 header
• fj60 vavle cover
• Stock gauge cluster
• Stock/80' 40, but modified double roll bar for seat belts
• modified door strikers for 75+ doors


Aftermarket/GM parts
• 4 core brass radiator
• gm alternator
• 70 chevy truck sag pump and homemade mount bracket
• gm duel ratio steering gear( red head steering gear)
• gm brake booster kit(btb products)
• gm rear disk brake kit(trolhole?)
• s10 front calipers on rear(need adjustable proportion vavle)
• 4" lift springs(unknown brand)(rough af)
• seats (dodge caravan)
• lunch box locker in rear end
• 92 s10 steering column
• ez wiring harness(gm style)
• custom front sway bar (jeep tj?)

Compression numbers 1.5f dry/cold
Pre adjustment
1. 135
2. 130
3. 127
4. 125
5. 131
6. 120
Post adjustment
1. 134
2. 130
3. 127
4. 127
5. 130
6. 115
I may not have got the correct lash on 6, but maybe a leak down test will test the other components.

Fuel tank/pump options
• Stock tank+moded intank fuel pump:?
• Stock tank+ External pump:?
• 94 blazer tank rear with pump? Tank $90 + pump
• or both and just use the stock tank as an extra tank and link it to the rear primary tank with switch and/or transfer pump. With a rear fuel cap in the wheel well for emergency access only.
• Downey 22 gal plastic fuel tank+internal pump: ~800+

Just doing some work!!!

 

[nitroid13]

Option 1

Sniper 1.5f conversion

Need to do a leak down test, and flatten the intake carb surface. I do believe that my engine is healthy enough to do well with the sniper injection kit. It was the first engine I ever built so It does have some sentimental value. And is a strong running engine when I'm not having carb issues. I nicknamed the carb "Elon" you can probably guess why brand new plugs have been carbon fouled like 3 times because of it and the idle screw does nothing...

Intake/exhaust manifolds rebuild
• 83 2f exhaust manifold: had
• intake: $155 bought
• Gaskets: $90 bought
• exhaust baffle block off plate: $50 bought
• new bolts for exhaust: ?
• Machining: $130 done
• flange and down pipe $96 bought
• flange for muffler section:? Shop cost? I have currently an old school 3in glasspack with turndown
• stainless hardware:? ~40

Accelerator
• cable and brackets: Sniper Midnight Series 36" Throttle Cable FJ40 Land Cruiser - https://redlinelandcruisers.com/shop/40-series/sniper-kit/lokar-midnight-series-36-throttle-cable-xtc-1000ht36 : $125,
Sniper Midnight Series 36" Throttle Cable FJ40 Land Cruiser - https://redlinelandcruisers.com/shop/40-series/sniper-kit/lokar-midnight-series-36-throttle-cable-xtc-1000ht36 : $25,
Red Line Holley Sniper Firewall Throttle Cable Bracket FJ40 - https://redlinelandcruisers.com/shop/40-series/sniper-kit/red-line-holley-sniper-firewall-throttle-cable-adapter-bracket : $22.50

• Air cleaner adapter: RL1049/50 1F Sniper Air Cleaner Adapter Kit for 1F Engine - Red Line Land Cruisers (SN1-3) - Red Line Land Cruisers - https://redlinelandcruisers.com/shop/40-series/1f-sniper-kit/rl1049-50-1f-sniper-air-cleaner-adapter-kit-for-1f-engine-red-line-land-cruisers/ ~300
• other options? Ok with an aftermarket air cleaner. Seems like this could be 3d printed for far cheaper...no reason for this to be billet aluminum lol

Efi kit
• sniper_efi: Holley Sniper EFI 550-850K Holley Sniper EFI 2300 Self-Tuning Master Kit - Black - https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_1-_and_2-barrel_systems/sniper_efi_2300_2bbl/parts/550-850K :$1450
•fuel line adapters: Earl's AN 3/8" Hose Fittings Kit for Holley Sniper Fuel Hard Line Kit for F and 2F Engine - Red Line Land Cruisers - https://redlinelandcruisers.com/shop/40-series/sniper-kit/earls-an-fittings-kit-for-holley-sniper-fuel-hard-line-kit-for-f-and-2f-engine/ :$164 (may or may not need)
Cheaper options?
•base plate adapter: Mr. Gasket 1937MRG Mr. Gasket Carburetor Adapter Kit - Large Holley 2-Barrel To Small Rochester 4-Bolt - 2-Barrel - https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/carburetor_gaskets_adapters_and_spacers/adapters_and_spacers/parts/1937MRG :$35
• temp sensor: 2F/F Reducing Bushing SNIPER EFI COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR - https://redlinelandcruisers.com/shop/60series/fj60-2f-sniper-kit/2f-f-reducing-bushing-for-sniper-efi-coolant-temperature-sensor/ :$35
• tank return adapter:??

Total: $1854 not including air cleaner

Possible kits
• mosley kit, does this kit have more that justifies the extra ~400-600 in cost?

Or should I just sorce the parts individually?

Positives
• truck kept with original engine, but brought into the 21 century
• more reliable cold starts
• betterish fuel mileage
• betterish power
• easier to install and less work.

Negative's

• extra 2500+ for a 5 speed to get the full benefit of the fuel injection and to match the benefits of the auto trans behind the v8, mainly on fuel economy.

Potential option 2
Keep the carb and find what is wrong. I'm rebuilding an original intake/exhaust manifold. And I can put that money in the suspension or some other project for it.

Big big con for this option is ethanol gas...

 

[nitroid13]

Option 3

V8 02 gmc 5.3 conversion (budget)
I have an engine/trans 254k on both, need to run compression check and leak down. But was running and driving great when pulled, the po had a failed wheel barring that they kept driving on and caused a fire by the fuse box and totaled it.

• Gasket set: https://a.co/d/hX9SYtJ ~185
• Wiring harness: 2002 5.3/4l60e https://a.co/d/aJ4iCDY ~185
• Ecu unlock and flash: ~250-350
• air intake and filter: stock gm or aftermarket?
• LS head freeze plugs and locks: https://www.motionraceworks.com/pro...SFte-M0HXnAORR_0-1Ofmc7WToNKyGo0aAlvREALw_wcB : ~55, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3332174969...3G8aGwZxIK6yUqBJb33SiM16Dc7g40AORPB4Z5RCTEPYI : ~15
• LS Engine Block Oil & Coolant Galley Plug: https://a.co/d/1au8PhE, ~40
• Radiator maybe/maybe not, mine is a 4 core brass unit.
• Motor Mounts not welding to frame: https://a.co/d/jjjUNko ~75
• trans mount: ~15
• custom trans cross member??? Modified gm bolt in unit?
• 02 4l60e adapter to 83 fj60: ~800-1000
• adapting my sag ps gear: lines and or adapters?
• throttle cable : ~40 - 60
• shifter floor or column??? Dream kit https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Loka...aG1_eCrIR_qcsFn8sR0cUSEfCGkKWy9hoCJewQAvD_BwE
• will need custom drive shafts will need to measure after install front and rear:?
• headers/manifold: GM LS Swap Cast Iron Exhaust Manifold LS1 LS2 LS3 4.8L 5.3L 6.0L Street Rod (DM-3303) https://a.co/d/593XIiZ : $200
• mufflers:?
• exhaust pipes:? Shop cost?


Positives
• definitely more power and fuel economy
• possible ez ac conv.
• auto
• driving enjoyment on interstate
• obd2

Negatives
• Need to upgrade front end to accommodate increased power although I do have stock fj60 birfs but 40 axles.
• drive line angles for rear end

Total for parts i have found $1965

 

[texcwa]

You will get all kinds of opinions on going with option 3 (V8) but I am very happy with my set-up. Went with an early Gen 1 sbc 350 with 4 bolt mains, rebuilt it with my son when he was in high school so he could learn how a motor works, did some mods (.030 over, heads 1.95/2.05, Comp Extreme 262H with roller rockers, 650 Holley, ram horn exhaust) Also went with 700R4 for overdrive, no electronics to worry about, aluminum 4 core with tranny cooler radiator,

Positives

• Easy to find parts and work on.
• more power (not that much better fuel economy)
• Sounds awesome.
• Not much weight difference (actually sbc weighs less than the F)
• Auto

Negatives

• Still always having to make adjustments to carb and timing (switched to Holley Sniper and Hyperspark fixed this, huge difference)
• Need to get all adapters, mounts and modify drive shafts.
• Placement of motor with auto trans places it forward (due to location of transfer case shift linkage and adapter) so a clutch fan or good electric fan will not fit (running fixed mechanical with no heating issues).

 

[cc93cruiser]

Please don't put gm crap in your 40, 40s are tractors, stick with the 6 inline...Let the flaming (from some) begin..

 

[jembourbe]

Please don't put gm crap in your 40, 40s are tractors, stick with the 6 inline...Let the flaming (from some) begin..

I used to think this way. But slapping on an EFI is just as much a bastardization* of the Toyota-ness of an fj40 is as dropping-in a V8. So my vote is for whatever the OP thinks will be most reliable and easy to maintain (including by bewildered mechanics who don't know the personal history of the car's mods)

* says this driver of a Megasquirt EFI 2f since 2003 lol

 

[kerplunk]

I'm a big fan of I6's low end torque and overall durability.

Swapping a carburetor out, or replacing it with a throttle body, is just a little addition of reliability at this point, like adding electronic ignition.

And part of my joy in driving my FJ40 is still having a manual transmission. If I want to drive an automatic down the freeway and save gas, I'll jump in my prius.

 

[nitroid13]

I'm a big fan of I6's low end torque and overall durability.

Swapping a carburetor out, or replacing it with a throttle body, is just a little addition of reliability at this point, like adding electronic ignition.

And part of my joy in driving my FJ40 is still having a manual transmission. If I want to drive an automatic down the freeway and save gas, I'll jump in my prius.

Honestly I agree, I'm wholeheartily against carbs on old vehicles/engines like these. Unless you have a trailer queen or doing a concourse restoration or have a benchmark survivor there is no reason to go with a carb...especially if you actually want to drive and enjoy your vehicle. Carbs are very outdated especially with ethanol gas, unless you can find a carb(weber?) or a kit for the original carbs that can handle ethanol. I know you can get ethanol free gas but it's far from being easly available, and it's super expensive compared to regular gas. And with our landcruisers they are gas hogs plan and simple no matter what we do to them. I basically look at carbs as I would of keeping points style ignition systems. I know the sniper injection is not without its faults but the benefits far out way the cost.

 

[Pighead]

I've owned my FJ55 for 38 years now. I know what i like and i like what i know. I assembled the engine 20 years ago with top-shelf pieces and parts. Still has great oil pressure and decent compression. I like the straight 6, don't mind the carb at all.

 

[nitroid13]

I've owned my FJ55 for 38 years now. I know what i like and i like what i know. I assembled the engine 20 years ago with top-shelf pieces and parts. Still has great oil pressure and decent compression. I like the straight 6, don't mind the carb at all.

View attachment 3425466

I really like that vavle cover, probably really hard to find. What does the rest of the air box look like? I have always liked the old iron pigs and 45lv's but i have never been able to get my hands on one. I do know what you mean, I have had mine since 2000 so almost 25 years and my truck has seen many changes throughout its time with me. They kinda almost become family in a way. My goal with it is to make it easier to maintain and find parts for. That is why I have made some of the modifications that I have. Though I am leaning very heavily towards the sniper injection.

 

[Pighead]

"the idle screw does nothing..."



You can fix that, cheaply and easily. Pretty quickly too.
Kurt @CruiserOutfitters always has carb rebuild kits in stock. Get two, theyre not going to get any cheaper or easier to find. I always have a spare.
With those and the Pinhead videos and 'Mud anybody can rebuild a carb to almost good as new.
If you insist on spending shovelloads, send it to a Guru. These rigs are quite reliable and easy to maintain for the most part.
I have a deathly fear of mysterious black boxes that rely on sensors to make the rig move. I have disabled my fuel cutoff solenoid to prevent that from ruining my day.
The air filter is just an off-the-shelf k&n...

 

[jembourbe]

I learned how to tune my 2F and eliminated all the vac leaks. It ran great and reliably with the stock carb. Switched to EFI because I wanted to believe the lies about better fuel economy. I learned that mileage has more to do with weight and aerodynamics than with fuel delivery method (if your mileage becomes noticeably better with EFI, then your engine was poorly tuned with the carb). One undeniable benefit of EFI: cold starts are better with EFI than with the carb (no choke required)

 

[nitroid13]

Thanks guys, I just ordered all the parts necessary for the efi swap, I am very excited and this is a big step

 

[texcwa]

Thanks guys, I just ordered all the parts necessary for the efi swap, I am very excited and this is a big step

Congrats, I for one love my EFI, not only better starts but much better throttle response and no more worries about altitude changes or inclines.

A couple of things to consider during your install.

1. The EFI harness runs 2 wired directly to battery and 1 ignition on switched wire (likely the pink wire). it is important that the ignition on wire is clean from other electrical sources or does not run alongside with other high amperage wires (a dirty wire). If not it may cause issues with the EFI. I added a relay from my ignition on wire with a wire from battery to the pink wire so to be sure it was clean.

2. Although the EFI harness has a relay for the fuel pump, the pump draws 5 - 7 amps. The Toyota harness runs your alternator to the ammeter then back to the battery to charge it. The wiring in the 40 harness measures to be about a 12 ga wire. Your ammeter is likely a 30 amp. The additional draw from your battery may max out your ammeter and wire size. I lost over a volt in charge from my alternator to my battery. Since my alternator is 80 amp, I decided to bypass the ammeter and install a voltmeter. Do a little research and learn more.

3. Follow the install instructions to a tee. Setting the IAC & TPS right may take a couple of times. Every time you make a change to idle or something you may need to change the IAC which may cause you to reset TPS by turning the ignition off then on again.

4. I was told by Holley that although the instructions say to set the AFR to 13.5, I should change it to 14.1 due to the ethanol here in CA. You may want to follow up with them.

The Holley Technical Service people are extremely helpful so use them as a resource.

Good luck and enjoy.

 

[nitroid13]

Congrats, I for one love my EFI, not only better starts but much better throttle response and no more worries about altitude changes or inclines.

A couple of things to consider during your install.

1. The EFI harness runs 2 wired directly to battery and 1 ignition on switched wire (likely the pink wire). it is important that the ignition on wire is clean from other electrical sources or does not run alongside with other high amperage wires (a dirty wire). If not it may cause issues with the EFI. I added a relay from my ignition on wire with a wire from battery to the pink wire so to be sure it was clean.

2. Although the EFI harness has a relay for the fuel pump, the pump draws 5 - 7 amps. The Toyota harness runs your alternator to the ammeter then back to the battery to charge it. The wiring in the 40 harness measures to be about a 12 ga wire. Your ammeter is likely a 30 amp. The additional draw from your battery may max out your ammeter and wire size. I lost over a volt in charge from my alternator to my battery. Since my alternator is 80 amp, I decided to bypass the ammeter and install a voltmeter. Do a little research and learn more.

3. Follow the install instructions to a tee. Setting the IAC & TPS right may take a couple of times. Every time you make a change to idle or something you may need to change the IAC which may cause you to reset TPS by turning the ignition off then on again.

4. I was told by Holley that although the instructions say to set the AFR to 13.5, I should change it to 14.1 due to the ethanol here in CA. You may want to follow up with them.

The Holley Technical Service people are extremely helpful so use them as a resource.

Good luck and enjoy.

Thanks for the info, I'll definitely keep those things in mind. I'm gunna end up building me a set of gauges so that isn't going to be much of an issue. Like I said I don't have a stock wiring harness so it should be a bit easier, hopefully

 

[thatcabledude]

Whatever you do don’t put that auto in. Ewww.

 

[White Stripe]

EFI can give you better fuel mileage. Timing is critical to a complete burn. Poor open loop tuning can waste fuel as well.

 

[jembourbe]

EFI can give you better fuel mileage. . . .

True, but most likely b/c it wasn't set up right before the EFI install. The EFI itself, compared to a well-tuned factory carb will be 6::1/half-dozen::the-other

But no more choke, altitude is corrected-for, 1-second crank to start, etc is pretty cool

 

[onemanarmy]

I used to think this way. But slapping on an EFI is just as much a bastardization* of the Toyota-ness of an fj40 is as dropping-in a V8. So my vote is for whatever the OP thinks will be most reliable and easy to maintain (including by bewildered mechanics who don't know the personal history of the car's mods)

* says this driver of a Megasquirt EFI 2f since 2003 lol

you mean like a 3FE?

a 3F with 'EFI slapped on'

 

[nitroid13]

True, but most likely b/c it wasn't set up right before the EFI install. The EFI itself, compared to a well-tuned factory carb will be 6::1/half-dozen::the-other

But no more choke, altitude is corrected-for, 1-second crank to start, etc is pretty cool

Ya and my carb was definitely not set right, when I first got it from a mud member that rebuilt it and ran it on his 40. And it worked great for 2 or 3 years and then I put a kit in myself and it worked for a while but just progressively got worse and worse. I think it was the gas that finally did it in