74' f engine rebuild
- Thread starter rsbcruiser
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
THE new lifters!
That's CLASSIC MUD guys, thanks. The engine blocks down at Bearing Service now. IDK Marshall, we'll see what they say. If they call back laughing, then maybe a 2f. I'll ask them what they say Texas grant, whats the weather, freezing our sitters here, thank you very much. What you say about noise from the solid gear sounds like sound advice. There has to be a reason they put the damper there in the first place. Anyways, what you think, only 5000 miles on the lifters pictured. Good for a few more? Oh, and if you are having trouble pulling your lifters from the top, really bad sign. They could be mushroomed and trashed like these. The damage resulting from the stuck valves was THIS severe. Amazing.
That's CLASSIC MUD guys, thanks. The engine blocks down at Bearing Service now. IDK Marshall, we'll see what they say. If they call back laughing, then maybe a 2f. I'll ask them what they say Texas grant, whats the weather, freezing our sitters here, thank you very much. What you say about noise from the solid gear sounds like sound advice. There has to be a reason they put the damper there in the first place. Anyways, what you think, only 5000 miles on the lifters pictured. Good for a few more? Oh, and if you are having trouble pulling your lifters from the top, really bad sign. They could be mushroomed and trashed like these. The damage resulting from the stuck valves was THIS severe. Amazing.
Yeah I'm thinking 2f. What did the lifter bores look like?
- Thread starter
- #44
Lifter bores snap gauged just fine. Luckily (that is, I had it easy because I could go both ways there) I stopped trying to pull the lifters from the top when I felt resistance. Not a fearin the 2f NBD an all but I believe the mechanical properties, ie. the mechanical dynimcs of the 3.5" bore X 4" stroke are better suited to the old (flywheel unto itself) crankshaft design. But of course you have to keep in mind this all comes from a guy who believes the best mouse ever made was the 283.
- Thread starter
- #45
Stud size
Whiling away the time waiting for the Rebuild shop. Thought I'd check out my manifold fitment. I've been using straight 12mm studs. They offer superior bending resistance. Plus they effectively bring the stud OD closer to the manifold flanges. And just look at um, that step down, the straight would kick sand in his face any day. That's a 12mm 10.9 plated stud there, serious hardware.
Whiling away the time waiting for the Rebuild shop. Thought I'd check out my manifold fitment. I've been using straight 12mm studs. They offer superior bending resistance. Plus they effectively bring the stud OD closer to the manifold flanges. And just look at um, that step down, the straight would kick sand in his face any day. That's a 12mm 10.9 plated stud there, serious hardware.
- Thread starter
- #46
Dry fitting the studs
Dry fitting the studs tells me that the threads are clean. Therefore, I don't need to chase with a tap.
Dry fitting the studs tells me that the threads are clean. Therefore, I don't need to chase with a tap.
- Thread starter
- #47
Test fitting the headers
There they are, my new Downey headers. eight years coming. I asked Jim down at Downey if he thought I could modify these things if they didn't ft with the straight 12mm studs. He snickered a little and said "Why sure". Luckily, the headers fit fine and dandy, trying to get through all of that ceramic (while not impossible) would be a challenge, oh and.......kinda stupid too. Man are those some sweet headers "Just say Yeah".
There they are, my new Downey headers. eight years coming. I asked Jim down at Downey if he thought I could modify these things if they didn't ft with the straight 12mm studs. He snickered a little and said "Why sure". Luckily, the headers fit fine and dandy, trying to get through all of that ceramic (while not impossible) would be a challenge, oh and.......kinda stupid too. Man are those some sweet headers "Just say Yeah".
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- Thread starter
- #48
Intake manifold interference
I test fit the intake manifold only to find some interference between the two horns of the intake manifold and the flange of my new header. Know how to fix that.
I test fit the intake manifold only to find some interference between the two horns of the intake manifold and the flange of my new header. Know how to fix that.
- Thread starter
- #49
Fitting the hardware
More trouble here. I desperately modified my intake manifold in a bid to make the old headers work. To fit, I modified extra thick washers to fit. Only needed to do this at the two places shown.
More trouble here. I desperately modified my intake manifold in a bid to make the old headers work. To fit, I modified extra thick washers to fit. Only needed to do this at the two places shown.
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- Thread starter
- #50
make it work
A little filing on the intake, a little grinding on a couple of washers and it all fits real nice.
A little filing on the intake, a little grinding on a couple of washers and it all fits real nice.
- Thread starter
- #51
More mods
I'm going to take these two studs to work and do a proper 1/4" wacking on um. In order to give plenty of clearance for the carb..
I'm going to take these two studs to work and do a proper 1/4" wacking on um. In order to give plenty of clearance for the carb..
- Thread starter
- #52
Cinching it all down
Finally, after fitting the hardware I dry cinched it all down. Everything is snug with no movemet. Notice, no gasket. The point here is to see how it all fits together, a gasket will mask the issues you are checking for.
Finally, after fitting the hardware I dry cinched it all down. Everything is snug with no movemet. Notice, no gasket. The point here is to see how it all fits together, a gasket will mask the issues you are checking for.
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- Joined
- Jan 5, 2004
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- 6,766
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- Paint Lick, KY
- Website
- www.globalsoftware-inc.com
Wow! Those look really nice! I really need to have my Downey headers Jet hot coated, they look sad compared to yours... 
- Thread starter
- #54
Hey Coolerman, how old are those headers? Were they ceramic coated? And finally, have they given you good service? Thanks for the picture. Sorry but I can't help myself here. Always the questions, So why do you have your temperature guage in that long fitting? What is that? some kind of pressure regulator for the oil filter? super cool Coolerman, other engines to compare mine to.
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2004
- Threads
- 143
- Messages
- 6,766
- Location
- Paint Lick, KY
- Website
- www.globalsoftware-inc.com
I have no idea how old they are as they came with a 1976 2F engine I bought and set aside for the day the F dies. I bought the engine to get the 4 sp tranny. The headers are chrome plated. They are replacing a set of Man-A-Fre 6 into 1 headers that were working fine.
The water temp sensor in the block is for a Auto Meter temp gauge and the sensor would not fit in the stock hole. I'm looking for a lower profile adapter.
The device screwed into the oil filter housing is an Auto Meter oil pressure sensor.
The water temp sensor in the block is for a Auto Meter temp gauge and the sensor would not fit in the stock hole. I'm looking for a lower profile adapter.
The device screwed into the oil filter housing is an Auto Meter oil pressure sensor.
Updates??
- Thread starter
- #57
Update
sorry so redicent. Hey cool, Texas, been there and indeed, we did have an oil well in our backyard. Updates..........days away (lets hope) from having something real to say. As of now my rebuilders and I are in a holding pattern waiting for this guy (always some mysterious this guy) to dig through his motor heap for a 74 block. The old block is a tosser because my stitching missed part of the crack and the crank is also cracked. So now, it is the 74 block or a 2f ground up or a 2f with my (how ironic) now cherry 74 f heads (make it work).
sorry so redicent. Hey cool, Texas, been there and indeed, we did have an oil well in our backyard. Updates..........days away (lets hope) from having something real to say. As of now my rebuilders and I are in a holding pattern waiting for this guy (always some mysterious this guy) to dig through his motor heap for a 74 block. The old block is a tosser because my stitching missed part of the crack and the crank is also cracked. So now, it is the 74 block or a 2f ground up or a 2f with my (how ironic) now cherry 74 f heads (make it work).
- Thread starter
- #59
Ouch. Sorry to hear that. How did the crank crack?
Hello IDave, I'm thinking the crank went the way of the cam. Since the load from the valve train is transmited to the crank opposite the output load (wringing a rag). Bad things happening in the valve train laod up the crank with a 2 to 1 torque on the crank. All thats just guessing though, U NO Dogman, opinions welcome so what do YOU think?
