74' f engine rebuild

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Oil screen

Maybe a good idea to take a look inside the oil screen, heck last time i did this, there was a lot more copper coat in there. Guess I'll have to be even more carefull with the copper coat this time.
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step by step

Install the pressure side block fitting, slide the pump into place, screw the pressure side pipe nut onto the fitting, install the oil screen, now screw in and tighten the pump mounting bolt.
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Snugging it all down

Tighten the pressure side nut to the block fitting first. While tightening the pressure side banjo nut, use your other hand to resist torque by holding the pipe. same for the pickup side except once you feel the nut tighten enough to stop the pipe from rotating apply an adjustable wrench as shown to finish torquing. Set the nut locks and cal it good.
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Oil pan alignment

Turns out, SOME people actually take these rigs out and 4 wheel them, imagine that! In the process knocking the Bee Gees out of their oil pans. So one way to go about it is to copper coat your pan gasket, throw the pan on there, wrestle, curse, make a mess of it cause it don't fit, take it all off, figrrrrr it all out, take out frustration on the pan as you cold work it back into shape, OR you could do this, Set the pan on the motor (no gasket), mark I the hole alignments, mark I the pan to flange flatness, grab a hold of the pan rocking it to see if it sits flat to the flange
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And then, throw the dry gasket on there set the pan back in place and mark I the archways front and back. Cold work your pan so that all of the mentioned features work out reasonably well, Does not have to be perfect (best fit). Good time to check threads on the pan fasteners, they take a beating along with the pan. Clean it all up, lightly copper coat the gasket (found a fist sized wad of copper coat in my pan the first time I cracked it open) and seal it up.
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Thanks Lou

My aspiration is a bit more humble, maybe, don't really know my compete motivation for doing this except I enjoy it and i get to meet people like you Lou. I said it before and I'll say it again, this site IS the cats' ass.
 
A moment please

Hats off, a moment please to admire BSs' work. They convinced me to let them assemble the long block. Their reason, the main caps don't self align, good enough for me. I would have liked to plasti gage and all, but...... Flycut marks on the deck, they cut the deck and the caps, remachined the crank bores, balanced the crank, ground 0.01" main and rod journals, piston rods from two motors were off 28 grams on one and 30 grams on the other, ha ha funny, Wow motors lasting legend long with those kind of numbers! Basic sound Engineering there. Said pistons and rods balanced to 0.1 gram, maybe I heard that wrong. Now the rear seal should seal (the reason why they leak, if it ovalized, seal no work good, simple). Sealing coating visible on the OD of the seal and under the rear main cap, two more reasons why Landcruiser motors don't have to be leakers. Back there in the shop, a guy who knew his work.......thanks ol guy, you were the reason, muttering over his shoulder experience and skill spanks enthusiam and desire every time, damn kids ain't worth the ink they were printed with. Har me sea legs a comin back.
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Mounting the oil pan

Is the pan clean? inside and flanges of block and. A squirt of rebuild lube on the cam lobes. Very light coating of copper coat on the block side of the gasket, placed it on the block, light coating on pan side, set the pan in place. Wrestle holes in place using dogleg pick and pilot, just start corner fasteners first ($OR for those original Toy pan bolts, don't ask why I'm just that kinda guy). Set all bolts with anti sieze please. All bolts in place...... whats that childrens poem, Around and a round we go where we stop no one no. Use the T handle here, great for hand torquing, it is a feel thing set them all even torque wise using one hand to hold it, the other to apply torque, once set go around one hand torque with hand on T crown. Don't overtorque. Milestone
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Top up

Turning her over now, checking the head bolt holes I ran a head bolt in till stop at finger torque. Measured the distance from deck to bolt flange. Next I measured the head heighth adding the gasket thickness. Sure enough an issue, sure the difference was only 0.07" but the dang, bad, torque is cumulative (meaning if you are fighting corrosion in the thread then your heads will not see the full torque you intended). So I broke out the old tap, another dang it, wanted to turn that tap into a bottoming type by taking it to work and grinding the lead off but no, guessing BS does'nt have a 13mm X 1.75. Tilted and taped in an attempt to keep tapping debri out of the bores.
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Head gaskets

I have both the f and the 2f head gaskets. There is a slight difference in the bore diameters with the 2f being larger. The only real difference is the position holes on the 2f are much larger than the f position holes allowing the 2 f gasket to move around on the block. Not good.
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Of mice and men

Ordered an extra set of head bolts on ebay, mine were looking a little beat. The guy shipped one short, no problem, i have another set, wrong! What the hey Jay, the f head bolts are considerably longer. Hoping Joe won't mind if I take another day off to track down one bolt and a crank key, people can just wait, I mean what is more important, my motor or some rich guys fishing reel, I mean come on!
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bonus day

Tracked down a crankshaft puley key, a throw out bearing and thanks to Josh at Willamette blvd motors, a head bolt. Bonus was the crankshaft pulley on the right. The larger second groove for power steering and even better, a seal surface that does not need one of those crummy speedy seals. Thanks Josh. Josh and his Dad are some more of the good uns, Landcruiser people. Portland rocks! for the Landcruiser scene.
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Another moment to admire BSs' work. Notice the brass freeze plugs. They used brass for all of the freeze plugs, I understand that this is THE way to go. Those brass threaded plugs you see, I dripped a little loctite green to make sure they don't leak exhaust fumes and drove them home using a six point socket, a must on those softies. carefull here. Hey looky there I remembered to install the air filter mount before torking down this time. See a problem here? Well neither do I. Read on and we both can find the problem together.
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Oh yes! good times, click click, click click, wondering if the pros smile when they do this cause i sure do. Started with a 10" 3/8 rachet bringing me to 40 ft-lbs or so, stepped up ten to 95ft-lbs, fun! Underhand with the lazy hand on the ratchet end. Figured it out yet? the problem? Stop laughing! dang it.
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You and your rockers

I rebuilt my rocker assembly awhile back. It has since survived one hell of a beating when the valves guides puked. It is a doer. You will need a reemer (sure wish I could have sized them by boring on a mill). Drive out the old rocker bearings press in the new ones. I suggest sizing them to 0.0004" over rocker diameter, if you have to tap the rocker on using a brass hammer then ideal, why? read on. if you can feel any imperfection on the rocker to valve interface then regrind the rockers (thanks Speeder Lewis, another godun). How do you know if the assembly needs to rebuilt? As in the picture, grab ahold of the rocker, any looseness in relation to the rocker shaft beyond a thousanth then the bearing is worn. Push the rocker down and feel for ridges on the rocker shaft. If grooved the rocker shaft will have to be replaced. I reeemed all except one rocker bushing to 0.0004", the one to 0.0008", I can feel just a little slop on that one rocker.
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Cleaning the lifters

Soaked the lifters in solvent. The grit visible is from the scotchbrite wheel I used to deburr the lifters. Used compessed air to blow them dry, a safe distance from the motor.
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Sending the lifters home

Sprayed rebuild compound down the lifter bores before sliding the lifters home. Their fit to the bore was just right, nice and snug, no slop. Notice the engine angle, this way to avoid lifters banging down on the cam lobes.
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