It isn't the destination, it's the journey...
74' f engine rebuild
- Thread starter rsbcruiser
- Start date
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It isn't the destination, it's the journey...
destination = sucess??
- Thread starter
- #23
Sure hoping so Grant, guess that's why I am taking the block to Bearing Services. I accidently stumbled on Portlands' f engine experts. They have told me tons of stuff I did not know about the f. I plan on sharing. Oh, and any Texan that can rip on one of his own has my vote. Way to go, even though he has it coming.
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- #24
Removing the lifter galley plate
Do whatever necesary to remove the lifter galley plate bolts without breaking them. Rust is a real killer here. Heat (do not heat so much that you see color, very bad) the bolts, pbblaster, whatever. The picture shows the result of a broken bolt that turned into a broken easy out then a huge hole and finally an insert. Total bs because it was at the back near the firewall. Learned another lesson here, after this I fixed the other broken bolt by drilling and tapping to the next larger size.
Do whatever necesary to remove the lifter galley plate bolts without breaking them. Rust is a real killer here. Heat (do not heat so much that you see color, very bad) the bolts, pbblaster, whatever. The picture shows the result of a broken bolt that turned into a broken easy out then a huge hole and finally an insert. Total bs because it was at the back near the firewall. Learned another lesson here, after this I fixed the other broken bolt by drilling and tapping to the next larger size.
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- Thread starter
- #25
Oil pump mount
This is the oil pump mount. Remove it before you pull the cam so it is out of the way.
This is the oil pump mount. Remove it before you pull the cam so it is out of the way.
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- #26
Timing cover plate removal
Easier to tackle the timing cover back plate before yarding the crank. I used a pointy dremel burr to dig out the sets on the three flat head screws. A screw driver and a brassy to break them loose. Beat the crap out of them so replacement is in order.
Easier to tackle the timing cover back plate before yarding the crank. I used a pointy dremel burr to dig out the sets on the three flat head screws. A screw driver and a brassy to break them loose. Beat the crap out of them so replacement is in order.
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- #27
Pull the plate off
Remove the two remaining bolts and pull the cover off.
Remove the two remaining bolts and pull the cover off.
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- #28
Remove the crank
With the timing plate out of the way it is easy to lift the crank out. just a little safety alert here, boy does that sucker weigh. See those exposed threads on the rod ends? Those things are death to your journals. If there is any hope of not regrinding the crank then put hose or tape over them as soon as you remove the caps.
With the timing plate out of the way it is easy to lift the crank out. just a little safety alert here, boy does that sucker weigh. See those exposed threads on the rod ends? Those things are death to your journals. If there is any hope of not regrinding the crank then put hose or tape over them as soon as you remove the caps.
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- Thread starter
- #29
Rod cap seperation
I used a breaker bar to bust the rod cap screws loose. With the nut in place to protect the threads, i gently rapped the rods loose. Yes that is the loaner Jeep I have been driving in the background, doh. It is the reason why I doing this. Without it I would have had to slap the rebuilt heads on her and drive it.
I used a breaker bar to bust the rod cap screws loose. With the nut in place to protect the threads, i gently rapped the rods loose. Yes that is the loaner Jeep I have been driving in the background, doh. It is the reason why I doing this. Without it I would have had to slap the rebuilt heads on her and drive it.
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- #30
Pulling the rod caps
I pulled the rod caps, stacking them in order with their respective bearings. Important if you plan on reusing your old bearings. Actually these (in my opinion) are reusable showing some slight grooving and and one rubbed area.
I pulled the rod caps, stacking them in order with their respective bearings. Important if you plan on reusing your old bearings. Actually these (in my opinion) are reusable showing some slight grooving and and one rubbed area.
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- #31
Pulling the crank caps
Same as the rod caps, your brassy and a light tap should break them loose. Stack in order with their respective bearings. Wear is similiar to the rod bearings.
Same as the rod caps, your brassy and a light tap should break them loose. Stack in order with their respective bearings. Wear is similiar to the rod bearings.
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- #33
No, good call, I yarded it out of there before snapping the pic
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- #34
Camshaft and gear
At first glance the cam looks great. Didn't like what I saw in the cam galley though. those new cam bearings have issues, rub spots and grooving.
At first glance the cam looks great. Didn't like what I saw in the cam galley though. those new cam bearings have issues, rub spots and grooving.
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- #36
Visual Inspection of the cam
I started to clean the cam so I could have a closer look at it. I was thinking of whipping the magnifying glass and all but NO! Almost all of the cam lobes are toast, toast, toast. Brand spanking new Downey torquer cam, fried. Pitted edges and flat spots. Looks like only the lobe crowns are chewed up though. My worst fears, the jammed valves put too much load on the valve train I'm thinking. The picture shows one of the effected crowns with pittting on the left edge.
I started to clean the cam so I could have a closer look at it. I was thinking of whipping the magnifying glass and all but NO! Almost all of the cam lobes are toast, toast, toast. Brand spanking new Downey torquer cam, fried. Pitted edges and flat spots. Looks like only the lobe crowns are chewed up though. My worst fears, the jammed valves put too much load on the valve train I'm thinking. The picture shows one of the effected crowns with pittting on the left edge.
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- #37
Camshaft thrust plate
Will the bad news ever end? New camshaft thrust plate. Went on nice and tight, now so loose all you really need is the mark one to confirm. Spec is 0.008" max, feeler guage is just poser to show where you measure.
Will the bad news ever end? New camshaft thrust plate. Went on nice and tight, now so loose all you really need is the mark one to confirm. Spec is 0.008" max, feeler guage is just poser to show where you measure.
- Thread starter
- #38
Cam gear vibraton isolator
No, of course the bad news continues. I was cruising Marshalls "Big Gay 2f build" when I came across his reference to a damaged cam gear vibration isolator. And do I have to look? Oh ya, cracked material. Don't know if you can see it but look at the band of darker material in the gear. Thanks Trollhole, this is all your fault! Troll snuck in my garage one night and chiseled it, needs the company I suppose.
No, of course the bad news continues. I was cruising Marshalls "Big Gay 2f build" when I came across his reference to a damaged cam gear vibration isolator. And do I have to look? Oh ya, cracked material. Don't know if you can see it but look at the band of darker material in the gear. Thanks Trollhole, this is all your fault! Troll snuck in my garage one night and chiseled it, needs the company I suppose.
Heee heee heee.
Sorry to see your pain. I know the feeling. Deep pockets, deep pockets, deep pockets.
Truthfully with all the issues this block has had. I'd ditch it for a later year 2f. I know you don't want to hear that but with snapped bolts, cracked block, worn cam bearings, worn cam, bad valve seals, and other unknown thing. I vote for finding a newer year motor with better balancing, oiling and better performance. I see a 2f in your future.
What did the lifters look like?
Oh and don't do what I did and replace the timing gear with the same type. Get a solid gear. But I was told you need to buy both gears as a set.