rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #81
Front right wheel cylder leak check
Looks like both sides are dry!
Looks like both sides are dry!
Last edited:
74 drum brake system tech
- Thread starter rsbcruiser
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #82
Brake bleeding section
The Factory Service Manual has an excellent brake bleeding description, also try the 40-45-55 tech. section, search thread or search title, brake bleeding. I bleed using a vacuum bleeder. Most of you I assume don't have that option. I stuff something under the master cylinder to make sure brake fluid doesn't hit the paint. Of course, it doesn't hurt to have a good coating of POR15 under the enamel.
The Factory Service Manual has an excellent brake bleeding description, also try the 40-45-55 tech. section, search thread or search title, brake bleeding. I bleed using a vacuum bleeder. Most of you I assume don't have that option. I stuff something under the master cylinder to make sure brake fluid doesn't hit the paint. Of course, it doesn't hurt to have a good coating of POR15 under the enamel.
Last edited:
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #83
First step is to remove any old brake fluid from the resevoirs. Why drag it all through your system? If you are bleeding without the help of a brake bleeder then you will have to bench bleed the master cylinder first. Myself, with the vacuum bleeder, I blow off that step, a useless waste of time. Period!
Last edited:
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #84
I offer this picture to highlight a Landcruiser feature. While laying under my Cruiser bleeding my brakes I can see the master cylinder. Cardinal sin to let your master cylinder go dry while you are bleeding your brakes. You have set yourself up for a difficult situation. It is actually more difficult now than starting from dry because pouring more brake fluid on top of a system partially evacuated will trap air betwen the old fluid and the new.
Last edited:
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #85
How to tell if you have air in your brakes
Spongy peddle? Are you sure it is air in your system? How do you tell for sure? Don't
because you will not believe how easy it really is. Sitting in your Cruiser with the hood up step on your brakes. Pay close attention to the fluid levels in the master cylinder as you do so. Now release the brakes. If you have air in your system, the resevoir level or levels will drop. release the peddle and the level or levels will rise again. If there is only a small amount of air in the system then the drop will be small but you will be able to see it. If the system is air free you will see brake fluid flowing back into the resevoirs when you release the peddle but no change in fluid level.
Spongy peddle? Are you sure it is air in your system? How do you tell for sure? Don't
because you will not believe how easy it really is. Sitting in your Cruiser with the hood up step on your brakes. Pay close attention to the fluid levels in the master cylinder as you do so. Now release the brakes. If you have air in your system, the resevoir level or levels will drop. release the peddle and the level or levels will rise again. If there is only a small amount of air in the system then the drop will be small but you will be able to see it. If the system is air free you will see brake fluid flowing back into the resevoirs when you release the peddle but no change in fluid level.
Last edited:
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #86
Brake bleeding sequence
When bleeding your brakes there is a sequence that needs to be followed.It is really not that big of a deal since the brake system is set up with the rear brakes seperated from the fronts. Bleed all of the far side bleeders first. The rear brakes have only one bleeder per wheel. The fronts have two per wheel. All bleeders must be bled, no skipping. Between bleeds I always return to the cab and pump the brakes a few times. After bleeding the system to the point that there is no air I will bleed the system one more time. With the fronts you only have to bleed one side per wheel for any extended period. The other side should fill up with fluid, at least partially when you bleed the first one on that wheel. No need to worry about sequence when bleeding a front wheel. Front or back it does not matter.
When bleeding your brakes there is a sequence that needs to be followed.It is really not that big of a deal since the brake system is set up with the rear brakes seperated from the fronts. Bleed all of the far side bleeders first. The rear brakes have only one bleeder per wheel. The fronts have two per wheel. All bleeders must be bled, no skipping. Between bleeds I always return to the cab and pump the brakes a few times. After bleeding the system to the point that there is no air I will bleed the system one more time. With the fronts you only have to bleed one side per wheel for any extended period. The other side should fill up with fluid, at least partially when you bleed the first one on that wheel. No need to worry about sequence when bleeding a front wheel. Front or back it does not matter.
Last edited:
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #87
The Blue Point Vacuum Brake Bleeder
Use of the Vacuum Brake Bleeder is straight forward. I put the box end wrench on first, place the hose end over the bleed valve, reach over and latch the bleeder handle down so it is drawing air then open the bleeder valve. These puppys gobble air though. You can run them at 175psi (12bar) for you metric people. They function by simply blowing air across an orifice, no working parts outside the switching. No need to turn off the brake bleeder during the process unless of course you have pity on your compressor. Leaving the Bleeder running after disconnecting the hose will pull any excess fluid out of the hose making the process very clean. A definite enviromental plus unless you consider the huge amounts of power your compressor is drawing to keep up. At higher pressures it will bleed your brake system in seconds. I run it at 100psi. Not wanting to pull the Master Cylinder through the hoses I like my tools! This guy is my second favorite, right behind my 3lb drilling hammer.
Use of the Vacuum Brake Bleeder is straight forward. I put the box end wrench on first, place the hose end over the bleed valve, reach over and latch the bleeder handle down so it is drawing air then open the bleeder valve. These puppys gobble air though. You can run them at 175psi (12bar) for you metric people. They function by simply blowing air across an orifice, no working parts outside the switching. No need to turn off the brake bleeder during the process unless of course you have pity on your compressor. Leaving the Bleeder running after disconnecting the hose will pull any excess fluid out of the hose making the process very clean. A definite enviromental plus unless you consider the huge amounts of power your compressor is drawing to keep up. At higher pressures it will bleed your brake system in seconds. I run it at 100psi. Not wanting to pull the Master Cylinder through the hoses
I like my tools! This guy is my second favorite, right behind my 3lb drilling hammer.
Last edited:
Use of the Vacuum Brake Bleeder is straight forward. I put the box end wrench on first, place the hose end over the bleed valve, reach over and latch the bleeder handle down so it is drawing air then open the bleeder valve. These puppys gobble air though. You can run them at 175psi (12bar) for you metric people. They function by simply blowing air across an orifice, no working parts outside the switching. No need to turn off the brake bleeder during the process unless of course you have pity on your compressor. Leaving the Bleeder running after disconnecting the hose will pull any excess fluid out of the hose making the process very clean. A definite enviromental plus unless you consider the huge amounts of power your compressor is drawing to keep up. At higher pressures it will bleed your brake system in seconds. I run it at 100psi. Not wanting to pull the Master Cylinder through the hoses
I'm going to have to get one of those Richard (if I ever see one for sale over this way).
Thanks for the explanation too. (I'd never have guessed they ran off compressed air.)
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #89
Speed Bleeder
Under 40-45-55 series tech go to "search this forum" select " search thread"
enter "speed bleeder" The information is in the "Brake help" thread. Pan down a bit. I believe we owe this one to spotcruiser.
Under 40-45-55 series tech go to "search this forum" select " search thread"
enter "speed bleeder" The information is in the "Brake help" thread. Pan down a bit. I believe we owe this one to spotcruiser.
Last edited:
Coolerman
SILVER Star
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2004
- Threads
- 143
- Messages
- 6,766
- Location
- Paint Lick, KY
- Website
- www.globalsoftware-inc.com
Great thread! I know for the more advanced folks this thread is painful, but the newbie WILL appreciate it, especially the pics. The first brake job on a drum brake equipped Cruiser can be intimidating and frustrating...
For the guys that like to 'roll their own'
and have more time than money 
Rebuilding the wheel cylinders instead of replacing them is very easy and cost effective, IF your wheel cylinders are in good shape and not completely pitted!
A rebuild kit for each cylinder is about $7.00 from NAPA or Auto Zone. Throw in $10 for a cylinder hone and about a day of your time to do all eight cylinders.
Here is a link to my web site that goes into great detail about my rebuild on my cylinders: Rebuilding The Brake Wheel Cylinders
You can navigate around and also find the procedure for manually bleeding the brakes using nothing more than a piece of clear 1/4" plastic line and a jar full of brake fluid. It's a one man job. No need to get the
involved!
An alternative I now use is a cheap Mity-Vac with brake bleed option. Using that system you can either suck brake fluid through the lines OR pump brake fluid into the lines.
I use this method on my other vehicles and will use it when I put !Oy back together.
For the guys that like to 'roll their own'
and have more time than money Rebuilding the wheel cylinders instead of replacing them is very easy and cost effective, IF your wheel cylinders are in good shape and not completely pitted!
A rebuild kit for each cylinder is about $7.00 from NAPA or Auto Zone. Throw in $10 for a cylinder hone and about a day of your time to do all eight cylinders.
Here is a link to my web site that goes into great detail about my rebuild on my cylinders: Rebuilding The Brake Wheel Cylinders
You can navigate around and also find the procedure for manually bleeding the brakes using nothing more than a piece of clear 1/4" plastic line and a jar full of brake fluid. It's a one man job. No need to get the
involved! An alternative I now use is a cheap Mity-Vac with brake bleed option. Using that system you can either suck brake fluid through the lines OR pump brake fluid into the lines.
I use this method on my other vehicles and will use it when I put !Oy back together.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #91
recieved the parts as listed in post #80
I recieved the parts that I ordered from NAPA. I inspected the wheel cylinders. At first I was confused about this. The wheel cylinders all have different part numbers. That did not confuse me one bit. Further inspection revealed that two have right hand thread and the other two have left hand thread adjusters. This fact helped to sort things out somewhat. The two with the brake bleeders already mounted helped to sort things out even more. See the brake spring kits? NAPA only had them listed for the back brakes. I ordered another set from SOR for the front brakes. I am willing to venture that they are the same in every way. We'll see when I recieve the SOR order.
I recieved the parts that I ordered from NAPA. I inspected the wheel cylinders. At first I was confused about this. The wheel cylinders all have different part numbers. That did not confuse me one bit. Further inspection revealed that two have right hand thread and the other two have left hand thread adjusters. This fact helped to sort things out somewhat. The two with the brake bleeders already mounted helped to sort things out even more. See the brake spring kits? NAPA only had them listed for the back brakes. I ordered another set from SOR for the front brakes. I am willing to venture that they are the same in every way. We'll see when I recieve the SOR order.
Last edited:
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #92
Rear wheel cylinder orientation and markings
Taking a look at the rear wheel cylinders, there are no Left, Right markings on them. Much different from the fronts. So the Left hand thread goes on the right side and the right hand thread goes on the left side axiom has an even greater importance in the case of these rear wheel cylinders. All of them are marked with a 7/8. this information has been edited, was 1 and 1/8
Taking a look at the rear wheel cylinders, there are no Left, Right markings on them. Much different from the fronts. So the Left hand thread goes on the right side and the right hand thread goes on the left side axiom has an even greater importance in the case of these rear wheel cylinders. All of them are marked with a 7/8. this information has been edited, was 1 and 1/8
Last edited:
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #94
I think those say 7/8
What! Hold on let me go see.....(foot steps).......Why, I will be darned, absolutely right!
Good call! And thanks alot! Leave it right there. This is the second time in this "how to" that you have helped. Thanks!
Last edited:
Just trying to help. I've BTDT with the drums and the cylinders (and the no brakes backing down a hill after a water crossing
).
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #96
Matching the brake shoe to the drum
Simple as pie. Just place the shoe up there as shown. The condition where the drum arc is bigger than the shoe arc thus forming a moon shape is the worst case condiiton. As mentioned earlier, there are things you can do to match the shoe to the drum. Shaping the shoe is called arcing in the industry. Fricton shops will do it for you or you can do it yourself. My Haynes repair manual has an excelent illistration of eactly how to arc your drums.
Simple as pie. Just place the shoe up there as shown. The condition where the drum arc is bigger than the shoe arc thus forming a moon shape is the worst case condiiton. As mentioned earlier, there are things you can do to match the shoe to the drum. Shaping the shoe is called arcing in the industry. Fricton shops will do it for you or you can do it yourself. My Haynes repair manual has an excelent illistration of eactly how to arc your drums.
Last edited:
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #97
pb blaster
A good idea would be to put a thread penatrant on the brake hose fittings prior to removal.
A good idea would be to put a thread penatrant on the brake hose fittings prior to removal.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #98
Rear brakes repair section
Picture is of the left rear brake. First step is to remove the brake line that connects the rear wheel cylinder to the front. Finish dissasembly as described earlier.
Picture is of the left rear brake. First step is to remove the brake line that connects the rear wheel cylinder to the front. Finish dissasembly as described earlier.
Last edited:
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #99
Anti sieze!
Lo and behold! Took the rear wheel cylinders off and there on the back of the wheel cylinders and on the threads was some old anti-sieze. I did these brakes maybe 8 years ago. Came apart real easy! So add the back of the wheel cylinders to the anti-sieze list. Neglected to mention that earlier.
Lo and behold! Took the rear wheel cylinders off and there on the back of the wheel cylinders and on the threads was some old anti-sieze. I did these brakes maybe 8 years ago. Came apart real easy! So add the back of the wheel cylinders to the anti-sieze list. Neglected to mention that earlier.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #100
The reason why there are four different rear W.C.s'
Sure, finally becomes apparent. The picture shows the left side rear wheel cylinders. One side has brake hose fittings only. These are both right hand thread adjusters
Sure, finally becomes apparent. The picture shows the left side rear wheel cylinders. One side has brake hose fittings only. These are both right hand thread adjusters
