74 drum brake system tech

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Keeping the piston drawn up

I held the piston up into its' bore, closed the bleeder valve and released. This technique helped to keep the piston in the bore a little better.
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Notes on progress to date

Most of the subject matter above can be applied to new wheel cylinders as well. Dismanting them, inspecting and then applying lubricants to fit your judgement. Next, I will be dealing with the drums and shoes.
 
Where the Cruiser philosophy collides with reality

I like to say of the Landcruiser that if you don't look it aint broke! Well, I looked. Safety trumps. Guess I will have to add brake lines to my list of parts needed to complete this job to a standard I can be comfortable with. See the missing rubber on the line? Bad!
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The drum

I don't think you need a fancy set of calipers to quantify your drum inside diameter. Measuring using a ruler will get you close enough to decide if your drums can be turned. FSM for the max allowable spec.. Eyeball the ID to determine condition, grooves, cracks and texture are your concerns. Clean with brake cleaner prior to install. New shoes means refreshed drum surfaces.
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Brake shoe matching

Place your brake shoe inside the drum as shown. Does it match the drum diameter? The shoes can be filed or sanded to fit. Have not tried it. Heard it here though. Shoe surfaces should be cleaned using brake cleaner. With Fallon 40s' permision I have included a link to his thread. Much better pictures than you see here and another demonstration of the resources available on Ih8mud.

Another drum brake adjutment question
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Installing the shoes

I applied a coating of anti-sieze around the hub to resist any rust that might bind the drum to the hub.. Had to clean it up a little. Just a thin coating is needed. The drums were installed with the back return spring in place (toward the back of the wheel). This made it easier to put the shoes in place. The other technique I have tried is to put the shoes on with both return springs in place, much harder. A member has pointed out to me that antisieze should be added to several other points of contact. Add a small amount of anti-sieze to the mounting slots in the wheel cylinders that make contact with the brake shoes. One more place to add anti-sieze is under the retention springs holding the shoe to the backing plate. Thanks to John McVicker for this information. The second picture shows the flats where anti-sieze could be added
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Used this ol brake tool to install the outside return spring. Easy. Installed in the direction shown. Before trying it this way, go down to the rear brakes section. There you will find a much easier way. The only reason it was easy to do it this way was because all of the brake hardware was old and exhausted. A ggod lesson for me here. Always rebuild your brakes using new hardware!
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See that little hole between the studs on the hubs? That sucker is threaded. Hmmmm, wonder if there should be a bolt there. Don't think you should line up the big hole on the drum with this hole.
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Install the retaining springs similiar to removal. The same advice as above. An easier way is shown in post number 109 in the rear brake section. My suggestion is to purchase new brake hardware when rebuilding your drums. when you go to install the new hardware you will see what I mean.
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Installation of the brake shoes is easier if you start with the adjuster nut adjusted all the way in. Not like this. Clean any excess grease prior to installing your drum. Now, toss that drum on there. Time to button up.
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The convention convention

Have to put this in print. The left side wheel cylinder adjusters are right hand thread otherwise known as normal threads. The right wheel cylinder adjusters are left hand thread or reverse thread. So, "lefty lucy, righty tighty" :lol: . Left is right, right is left. Anyone steeped in political theory should be gut busting about now. I am thinking that if you mixed adjusters right to left you would be in for a big bag oh confusion. Now, if you mixed the wheel cylinder bodies, left to right then the brake lines would feed into the hole that is designed for the bleeder valve.
 
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The back brakes

I had to use a fine chisel to break the rust lock and loosen this rear drum. If the drum is rusted on to the point that you have to use a chisel, take extreme caution. The chisel will leave a burr that MUST be filed flat before reinstalling the drum
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The end

Not of this thread, but the end of any real progress for now. The reason should be obvious. I now need to add a complete rebuild of the back brakes to my list. Unfortunate. I hoped to close this thread tonight. Now it looks as though I will be waiting for parts before being able to round it up. The wheel cylinder on the right of the picture has been leaking. The good news is, I put the return springs on correctly the last time I did this.
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Sargeant Safety

A note of caution. I raised this wheel, turned around to get the jack stand and the wheel had dropped back down. I failed to tighten the Garage Jack release valve completely. FLOOR JACKS!
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jimhendrixx said:
Dude, switch over to disk brakes, trust me man.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jimhendrix. It has always been my intention to switch to disks on the front at least. Economic factors have driven my decisions concerning this matter to date. Is there any advice you would be able to give to justify doing so at this time? any input would be appreciated.
 
Wheel bearing check

Any time you have a wheel off of the ground and secure is a good time to check your wheel bearings. I grab the tire near the bottom as shown with the left hand, the top with the right. With the left hand, I lift the wheel, with the right I push in. If there is a slop feeling in the bearings then you have an issue.
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Great write-up Richard.

I like my drums-all-round and I'm keeping them ;)
 
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