73 FJ40 Valve Cover

[ASO544]

So I noticed I got a slight weeping valve cover leak on the right side. Was considering replacing the gasket to see if that did anything but after doing some research it seems to be the stamped metal cover itself that is the weak link.

I considered going with a 79-80 2F aluminum cover and gasket setup but that seems hard to find or cost a good bit…..plus locating the studs and retainer issues.

Are there any aftermarket aluminum valve covers that could work to replace the OEM one?

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

I don't know of any aftermarket covers. I replaced the stamped cover on my F engine with the 2F aluminum cover and all leaks disappeared.

 

[ASO544]

Guess if I can find one online somewhere I might go that route. What did you do about the longer studs and the retaining hardware to hold the 2F cover?

 

[Green Bean]

I switched to a 2F aluminum valve cover on our 1970 and didn't have to change any hardware except the acorn nuts, as far as I can recall. I have an extra one I could probably part with if your interested. Cork gaskets are readily available from Toyota.

 

[ASO544]

PM sent

 

[Steamer]

It really depends on the condition of the steel valve cover. Luckily mine is in real good shape. I Permatex the cork gasket to the valve cover and use Never-Seize on the other side. Cover goes on & off numerous times with the same gasket using hand tightened “thumb nuts” to hold it on. I just don’t have leaks. I once obtained a 2F aluminum cover and polished up but never put on and gave it away. My rig is pretty ruff, and not much original but for some odd reason I really like keeping the steel cover. Had it been bent or beat up I’d have put the aluminum one on.

Here's how I stick on with Permatex , then lay on some weight and let it sit overnight.

 

[Pighead]

Are there any aftermarket aluminum valve covers that could work to replace the OEM one?

Well, there's these. Not easy to find, one did pop up for sale recently though...

 

[charliemeyer007]

Make sure the head is scraped clean of any and all crud so you will have a proper mating/sealing surface. The cover's gasket area needs to be clean and "flat" plus straight. This is gentle chiropractic work usually done with punches and a wood block. The cover should just set on with out needing nuts much pressure to hold it in place. Cranking down the nuts is what bends the cover so it leaks.

I like Permatex 2B compound because it never dries hard and glues stuff in place.

 

[ASO544]

I got a new gasket to see if that might stop the weeping but damn this thing is on there. I removed the 4 retaining nuts on top but it won’t budge!!! I guessing it was sealed on there with a gasket seal or something. I gave it a few slight hits with rubber mallet but no movement and I decided I wouldn’t press my luck.

Any suggestions ?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Heat Gun at the 4 studs and at the gasket seal perimeter.

 

[mtn biker]

I have an F motor valve cover sitting around at my house if you are interested.

 

[Pighead]

Any suggestions ?

For stuck oilpan gaskets we'll often use a jack of some kind against the frame rail and pushing on a length of 4x4 lumber against the oilpan. Perhaps a length of 2x4 along the valve cover, your bottle jack against something solid in the engine bay, give it an extra pump and leave it under tension for a bit. Then whack it again with the mallet. Harder.

 

[Pighead]

It really depends on the condition of the steel valve cover. Luckily mine is in real good shape. I Permatex the cork gasket to the valve cover and use Never-Seize on the other side. Cover goes on & off numerous times with the same gasket using hand tightened“thumb nuts”to hold it on. I just don’t have leaks. I once obtained a 2F aluminum cover and polished up but never put on and gave it away. My rig is pretty ruff, and not much original but for some odd reason I really like keeping the steel cover. Had it been bent or beat up I’d have put the aluminum one on.

Here's how I stick on with Permatex , then lay on some weight and let it sit overnight.

View attachment 3666141

That is pretty clever. I had not heard of using Anti-Seize on the gasket. I use a smear of axle grease there, not too thick and not too thin.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I do believe he is using Aviation Permatex not anti seize compound.

Permatex #2 Form-A-Gasket Sealant Slow Dry Non Hardening 3 oz

Shop for Permatex #2 Form-A-Gasket Sealant Slow Dry Non Hardening 3 oz with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

 

[Pighead]

I do believe he is using Aviation Permatex not anti seize compound.

Permatex #2 Form-A-Gasket Sealant Slow Dry Non Hardening 3 oz

Shop for Permatex #2 Form-A-Gasket Sealant Slow Dry Non Hardening 3 oz with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

I read that he was using both...

 

[Steamer]

I read that he was using both...

Yes, I use both. Permatex to stick it to the valve cover and Never-Seize on the other side so the valve cover lifts right off.
I tried using Never-Seize on both sides but it's tough keeping the gasket in place. There's a lip on the valve cover all around the outer edge bit only a few tabs on the inner edge. When I used Never-Seize on both sides, the gasket kept slipping inward.
That plexi glass method works like a champ for me and I'll stay with that one gasket for many removals. The gasket only gets replaced if I re-paint the cover.

 

[65swb45]

Chances are the PO glued the gasket on because of the leaks. I’ve had to chisel several off that were like that.

Aluminum valve cover for the win. Pretty much the first thing Marv Spector sold me back in 1986. Made me a believer.