73 FJ40 Valve Cover

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ASO544

ASO544

Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Threads
60
Messages
400
Location
USA
So I noticed I got a slight weeping valve cover leak on the right side. Was considering replacing the gasket to see if that did anything but after doing some research it seems to be the stamped metal cover itself that is the weak link.

I considered going with a 79-80 2F aluminum cover and gasket setup but that seems hard to find or cost a good bit…..plus locating the studs and retainer issues.

Are there any aftermarket aluminum valve covers that could work to replace the OEM one?
 
I switched to a 2F aluminum valve cover on our 1970 and didn't have to change any hardware except the acorn nuts, as far as I can recall. I have an extra one I could probably part with if your interested. Cork gaskets are readily available from Toyota.
 
It really depends on the condition of the steel valve cover. Luckily mine is in real good shape. I Permatex the cork gasket to the valve cover and use Never-Seize on the other side. Cover goes on & off numerous times with the same gasket using hand tightened “thumb nuts” to hold it on. I just don’t have leaks. I once obtained a 2F aluminum cover and polished up but never put on and gave it away. My rig is pretty ruff, and not much original but for some odd reason I really like keeping the steel cover. Had it been bent or beat up I’d have put the aluminum one on.

Here's how I stick on with Permatex , then lay on some weight and let it sit overnight.

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ASO544 said:
Are there any aftermarket aluminum valve covers that could work to replace the OEM one?
Click to expand...
Well, there's these. Not easy to find, one did pop up for sale recently though...

20230828_134658.webp
 
Make sure the head is scraped clean of any and all crud so you will have a proper mating/sealing surface. The cover's gasket area needs to be clean and "flat" plus straight. This is gentle chiropractic work usually done with punches and a wood block. The cover should just set on with out needing nuts much pressure to hold it in place. Cranking down the nuts is what bends the cover so it leaks.

I like Permatex 2B compound because it never dries hard and glues stuff in place.
 
I got a new gasket to see if that might stop the weeping but damn this thing is on there. I removed the 4 retaining nuts on top but it won’t budge!!! I guessing it was sealed on there with a gasket seal or something. I gave it a few slight hits with rubber mallet but no movement and I decided I wouldn’t press my luck.

Any suggestions ?
 
I have an F motor valve cover sitting around at my house if you are interested.
 
ASO544 said:
Any suggestions ?
Click to expand...
For stuck oilpan gaskets we'll often use a jack of some kind against the frame rail and pushing on a length of 4x4 lumber against the oilpan. Perhaps a length of 2x4 along the valve cover, your bottle jack against something solid in the engine bay, give it an extra pump and leave it under tension for a bit. Then whack it again with the mallet. Harder.
 
Steamer said:
It really depends on the condition of the steel valve cover. Luckily mine is in real good shape. I Permatex the cork gasket to the valve cover and use Never-Seize on the other side. Cover goes on & off numerous times with the same gasket using hand tightened“thumb nuts”to hold it on. I just don’t have leaks. I once obtained a 2F aluminum cover and polished up but never put on and gave it away. My rig is pretty ruff, and not much original but for some odd reason I really like keeping the steel cover. Had it been bent or beat up I’d have put the aluminum one on.

Here's how I stick on with Permatex , then lay on some weight and let it sit overnight.

View attachment 3666141
Click to expand...
That is pretty clever. I had not heard of using Anti-Seize on the gasket. I use a smear of axle grease there, not too thick and not too thin.
 
Pighead said:
I read that he was using both...
Click to expand...
Yes, I use both. Permatex to stick it to the valve cover and Never-Seize on the other side so the valve cover lifts right off.
I tried using Never-Seize on both sides but it's tough keeping the gasket in place. There's a lip on the valve cover all around the outer edge bit only a few tabs on the inner edge. When I used Never-Seize on both sides, the gasket kept slipping inward.
That plexi glass method works like a champ for me and I'll stay with that one gasket for many removals. The gasket only gets replaced if I re-paint the cover.
 
Chances are the PO glued the gasket on because of the leaks. I’ve had to chisel several off that were like that. :rolleyes:

Aluminum valve cover for the win. Pretty much the first thing Marv Spector sold me back in 1986. Made me a believer.
 
My valve cover has leaked since I bought my rig a year ago. Finally got around to fixing it this past weekend. I've got a 2F in my '74 with an aluminum cover. Went with the OEM rubber gasket (from SOR). There's zero way it would stay in the channel along the valve cover. Permatex #2 was definitely the solution. I borrowed the plexiglass trick mentioned in this thread. Highly recommend! Made it much easier to see that it's seated and adjust as necessary when you attach with the sealant. I only used very thin amounts every 6 inches or so on the outside rail of the cover. Left it overnight and it was ready to go. Rig is back on the road and as of Sunday's test drive, no oil yet!
 
Fingers crossed this new gasket works well and I don't have to look at ditching my aluminum cover any time soon! The other factor I noted was that there's a big steel hook at the back of the engine attached via two cylinder head bolts. I presume it's for pulling the engine out. However, that big hook sits slightly in the way of the valve cover, causing it and the gasket to overhang the mating surface on the cylinder head by about 1/16". This also seemed like a possible reason for the leak, since it was only leaking on the side with the overhang. I was tempted to loosen the bolts and try to adjust the placement of the hook to correct the clearance, but didn't want to get into breaking loose and then re-torquing the cylinder head. Wasn't sure what regrets I would have afterward. The gasket was cheap and not hard to replace, so I figured I'd swap it out as planned and see how it goes!
 
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