Builds '73 FJ40 rebuild - family wheeler

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Last night I finally got off my butt and worked on the 40. I pulled the steering column, finished preparing the firewall, and shot it with primer. I need to go back and clean up a few areas, but it is pretty much ready for color.
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Speaking of color, TonsOFun came out with his impressive bag of Monstaliner color chips to see if any of those would work for me. Originally I was planning on over-the-counter paint only for easy touch-ups but I really like the idea of the liner and I think it would set it off that much more. One of the colors, Smurfadelic, looks to have the perfect contrast to the T1D Ribbon!
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The firewall prep is done and Smurfadelic Monstaliner is ordered. Hopefully I will get a new driver side apron soon so that the front clip can be prepped as well. I will coat all of that while I'm doing the firewall. She's moving along slowly!
 
Update time! So I got my Monstaliner in the mail and I acquired a new driver side apron. My plan was to strip the hood, aprons, and bib to get ready to line. As I pulled apart my bib, I noticed that the rust has taken it’s toll and it was in a lot worse condition than it looked bolted on the 40:

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Another issue with my bib is the PO cut holes for the ugliest rectangle turn signals (since the front fenders were bobbed). I would really want an early bib for the factory turn signals. However, I am still on a very limited budget to get this thing back on the trail. That’s when Anthony from Land Cruisers NW came to the rescue! He had an early bib that he was going to use as a wall hanger and he was willing to give it to me for the project. It was not perfect, as the poor 40 that wore this bib must have hit something pretty hard, but it will give me what I need. Originally, I was hoping that I could just straighten the early bib and make it work. That proved to be a bit harder than I was expecting without a press. Here is the early bib all stripped down:

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I have now spent a couple of weeks staring at these bibs trying to think of the best way to fix the early bib or graft the two bibs together without screwing up both of them. I’m not that great with sheet metal work, so I am a little nervous about any of my options.

Well, as luck would have it, my Dad happened to be in town for a job and he met up with my wife and I for dinner. He was looking over the bibs and came up with a plan. Using the original bib as the starting point, we could replace the bottom 2” with 3/16” angle. It won’t look completely original because it will no longer have the original outer shell, but it will be strong and wouldn’t rust. He then figured out the details in grafting the stamped turn signal area from the early bib to my ’73 bib. We can actually use all Toyota metal to fix it except for the angle iron. He was up for the challenge, so the bibs are on there way to Bend to have my Dad work his magic!

I feel like a HUGE weight has been lifted off of my shoulders. Now I can focus on the engine swap side of things and I have a renewed energy for getting out in the garage. I didn’t realize how much dreading about the stupid bib was dragging me down.
 
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Well, my Dad wasted no time in getting the bib finished up! He took my original bib, grafted in the early indicator lights, patched the PO's hole for aftermarket (ugly) blinkers, and replaced the bottom part with angle iron. I am stoked with how it turned out! Now I have a rust free, straight bib that can run stock looking blinkers.

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I will get some etching primer on the bib ASAP so that I have something for the Monstaliner to stick too. I am also on the hunt for the proper bell housing and clutch parts to mate my SBC to my SM465. Ideally, I want a cast steel one from a '68 - '72 GM truck (Cast # 3925505). I would settle for a later aluminum one, but the cast would make me feel better. I also need to buy a flywheel and 11" low-profile clutch so I can keep the Toyota clutch hydraulics.
 
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I am also on the hunt for the proper bell housing and clutch parts to mate my SBC to my SM465. Ideally, I want a cast steel one from a '68 - '72 GM truck (Cast # 3925505). I would settle for a later aluminum one, but the cast would make me feel better. I also need to buy a flywheel and 11" low-profile clutch so I can keep the Toyota clutch hydraulics.

I may have the BH you are looking for. It's a cast iron BH. I'll see if I can find it and check it out. The nose area for the starter is too small for a diesel starter so I can't use it. If it is what you are looking for I'm just about 10 miles south of Salem.

Don
 
I may have the BH you are looking for. It's a cast iron BH. I'll see if I can find it and check it out. The nose area for the starter is too small for a diesel starter so I can't use it. If it is what you are looking for I'm just about 10 miles south of Salem.

Don

That would be awesome, Don! I'm in Wilsonville, so that is only a 30 - 40 min drive for me. Please let me know what you would like for it and I will happily take it off your hands for you.
 
Found it---- BUT---- not the correct BH for you. It's a small dia opening for the trans nose. I tried it on a SM465 I have here just to make sure. Bolt pattern for trans is different also.

Sorry for getting your hopes up

Don!
 
Saturday my wife and I brought home the 40's "new" engine! It's a Gen 1 SBC 350. According to the date code, I believe it was built in 1976. It came with the first generation of Holly ProJection, a healthy cam, Elderbrock Performer intake manifold, etc... I've started the cleaning process and will be putting new gaskets on it and painting it red.

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Now I really need to find a GM truck bell housing!
 
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I have one of the AL ones sitting around somewhere.
 
Can't help on the bell housing, but I just ordered a bunch of AA clutch stuff from Summit for a SM420/350 swap. Pns may be helpful to you.
Delivery was less than a week and they were about 5% cheaper than from AA.... Also free shipping!
I believe the clutch, TOB and arm are the same for the SM465

Lc165473s (04-072) clutch kit
Note the lc165552 (04-042) is a high profile clutch
716316 TOB for the Chevy trans to 350
716176 release arm and 716139 fork wedge

AA numbers all cross reference on summit
 

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