71FJ40 Chevota

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there are times I really wish this site was set up a bit different - I rely on the "alerts" to tell me when threads I'm watching are updated... problem is if I ignore once or twice it thinks I'm no longer watching

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isn't right, the shackle should aim forward at full drop with that said, you should be okay as long as it hits the bump stop before the spring hits the mount. If not, well, you may have to move it back a bit.... oh yeah, and re-adjust your pinion angle (fortunately you should be able to use wedges for that potentiality).
 
Got some stock front shackles (Thanks @Irish11 !) The shackles that we on it are 5.25" long and nearly vertical. The spring can compress and move, but I wanted to take some height out of the truck, and get more movement from the shackles to increase travel.

Glad I could help. Looks like a good project!
 
@SuperBuickGuy: I agree on the shackle, in the photo the jack is actually under the axle compressing the springs, there's a small gap between the jack stand and the frame. I'm still debating about adjusting the rear mount and flipping the springs to gain wheel base, but I'm going to stop fiddling with it. As it is sits now, I'm happy with where the back of the spring is in relation to the frame at ride height (and theoretically when the spring is flat). I'm hoping to set the axle angles as is, then if I extend the wheelbase and do adjustments to the rear hanger, I will have minimal effect on pinion angle. But... shims are always an option.

Also, I agree with the forum updates, I used Tapatalk for most forum access, and since it's gone away, I haven't been checking or updating nearly as often.

I'm hoping for some road-worthiness tests this summer (new axle, brakes and steering :clap: )
 
Had good weather so I made some progress.
Spring perches and knuckles tacked.
Everyone was right, the cut and turn was easy. In fact it took me longer to fit the pass side diff perch than to cut the knuckles, turn them and tack them :)
Had to do quite a bit of grinding on the ruff stuff diff perch. Overall, it's a beefy piece of hardware, not too bad to fit
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For the C&T, I used a cutoff wheel.
I masked the area next to the weld and hit it with some black paint to get a clear line of where to grind.
I ground small notches in the housing at 90deg increments so I could work a small section at a time.
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Some have mentioned it, and you probably can't tell from the photos, but at about .230-.250 deep you can see a faint line separating the two pieces of metal. I used calipers to check depth, and actually found it easier to find a landmark on the cutoff wheel that matched 1/4" depth and grind to that... hard to explain but you know what I mean.
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Turning wasn't too bad, I used a pickle fork and a ball peen hammer to tap them around.
I measured the distance between the notches to check movement and calculated the angle vs circumference changed. I wanted 19 degrees since I rotated my pinion up about 15 degrees. That should give me 4ish caster.

Here's the math
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Then I fine tuned it on the truck after bolting the axle in and setting it down on jack stands at ride height. I ended at 3.5 deg
and a circumference change of .519" so pretty close to my math.
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I didn't take any photos of the setup while I set the knuckles and perches, but basically it's this:

Weight on jack stands set at ride height
Install drive shaft
rotate pinion so drive shaft angle meets pinion angle (or so pinion is down about 1 deg, mine's 1 deg low)
Tack perches
rotate knuckles to 3-5 deg caster (can't remember what's neg or pos, but you want the top of the knuckle toward the rear of the vehicle)
Make sure the knuckles are rotated the exact same on each side

For this, i used a wood spacer between the springs and a metal shim, this made sure my angle finder was square to the springs, then I set the angles.
This also allowed me to use the same exact setup on both sides. Since there is some kingpin angle, I was concerned that the angle finder would be rotated and I'd be picking up some of that angle in my caster measurements. The block and shim helped.
Sorry no pics of that either

I also went back and ground a bevel on both sides of the groove for the knuckle. That should help when welding.

Next up is weld it up and move onto shock mounts and diff armor.
 
Been a while since I posted, my buddy welded up the knuckles and spring perches. We went slowly and used TIG to keep the warping down.
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then I went at it with my "skilled - haha!" hand and 110V machine to stick on the Marlin Knuckle gussets and shock mounts. They came out OK and were good practice.
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Fabbed up some steering stops, used 3/16" steel and put a large bolt in the middle in the hopes of increasing strength (we'll see).

Use VHT brake caliper paint (pretty impressed with the coverage)
edit: i didn't realize the caliper paint needed to be baked at 200F for 2 hours, so I ended up stripping it off and using VHT epoxy paint

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Next up is a pipe cap diff cover, relocation of the fill plug, and final coats of paint!
 
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Oh and to continue the parts lists:
From Marlin Crawler:
MCAX-1531 front axle service kit (to be installed later... a lot later)
MCBR-161K backing plate eliminator
MCHT-1121 knuckle studs (for the 6 stud knuckles)
From Trail Gear (via summit racing)
TGI-140327 HD knuckle ball wiper seals
TGI-140050-1-kit spindle stud kit
From PHWarehouse.com
11447 - 10.5" dia Standard carbon steel pipe cap

hope this helps someone in their future searching for parts.
 
Worked on the diff cover, I used tape to mask off the cut lines, then painted with a contrasting color. That helped me cut through with a 4" cutoff wheel on my grinder.
The cut edges turned out pretty good.
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The uncut pipe cap is 5" tall so I had to remove 1" in length then simply cut in half
Here's a shot of the gap between the pipe cap and the housing after cutting. it's about 1/4"
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Then I fit a sheet metal cap to keep it from filling with water/dirt. This will be welded to cover and I put a 1/2" drain hole in the bottom of the pipe cap.
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Oh I also relocated the fill plug for the diff, the welds aren't pretty so I won't get too into it.
I did set the fill plug high enough that the oil level can be just below the axle shafts. The plug is also large enough I can get in there to feel a lower oil level if needed.

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wire brushed, wiped with acetone, and painted with VHT Epoxy paint.
I'm not sure how the paint will hold up, but it looks good for now :bounce:
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Oh and not tech related, but the wife is starting to like the '40.. I think. She got me this for our anniversary :)
it's an actual photo from my truck! outlined of course
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and the nickname "moose"
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It's just a spacer. It'll work fine.
 
Just read start to finish. What a mission, but like others have said - a good base to build from. Love the SBC!
 
New question on steering (old topic actually with lots of data, I've searched and found the following options so i'll ask here to see if anyone wants to offer an opinion)
I'm ready to buy steering arms and links, my options are:
  1. 6 stud knuckles (have)
    1. TG hysteer arms and FJ80 TREs
    2. will need custom links and pitman arm as TG no longer offers a '40 kit
  2. 6 stud knuckles (have)
    1. 4x4 labs frombe steering arms and chevy 1 ton TREs (complete kit)
    2. Not sure if still available, the frombe steering is not the website anymore
  3. Large pattern knuckles (have)
    1. Marlin hysteer and stock trunion bearings (complete kit)
  4. Large pattern knuckles (have)
    1. Marlin hysteer and 25mm trunion bearings (complete kit)

I'm plan to run 37s and have 2 concerns:
  1. knuckle studs breaking (I know torque before every trip, but does 6 stud help?
  2. trunion damage due to big tires (seems rare with the stock bearings)
edit: i'm leaning toward one of the 6 stud options as i can always bore out arms for the 25mm upgrade if I have bearing issues, it's much harder to add studs (though it can be done)
Thanks for any thoughts
 
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