70 series dash removal (1 Viewer)

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It is super easy. Take pictures along the way so it goes back together easily. The hardest part is the blower, unless you pull the heater core.
 
I recently pulled the gauge cluster out on mine; it's partly put back together now but I can get some photos this evening.
 
Ok, sorry this has taken so long.
To remove the gauge cluster take out the six screws that hold on the plastic housing.
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There are two plastic tabs at the top of the surround that hold it into the metal dash; it takes some wiggling to get them free without breaking them.

Then there are the plugs for the 4WD and mirror switches and the lights for the filter, PWR and glow lights.

There are four screws that hold the gauge cluster in; only three are in the photo.
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Once these are removed you will need to unhook the speedometer cable; this requires undoing it from a bracket in the footwell to get enough slack to pull the gauge cluster out a couple of inches. Once that is done you will be able to reach behind and detach the cable from the cluster. There is a single squeeze tab on the end of the cable.
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After that it is just a matter of unplugging all of the electrical connections on the back of the cluster.
 
Hello,

The tricky part is detaching the speedometer cable. The rest takes 20 minutes.

Re-attaching the cable during assembly is tricky as well.

It is good practice to have a small screwdriver to unlock the electrical connectors.





Juan
 
Jimmy, After you loosen all the screws/bolts, just remember to pull straight up on the Instrument Cluster. Otherwise you risk breaking some brittle plastic tabs. Don't pull toward you, but up.

And as AirNut describes in the photos, do the Speedo/Clock last when removing. It is pretty tight. Not too much play there. And Connect the Speedo first when re-installing.
 
Ok, sorry this has taken so long.
To remove the gauge cluster take out the six screws that hold on the plastic housing.
View attachment 1895413

View attachment 1895414

There are two plastic tabs at the top of the surround that hold it into the metal dash; it takes some wiggling to get them free without breaking them.

Then there are the plugs for the 4WD and mirror switches and the lights for the filter, PWR and glow lights.

There are four screws that hold the gauge cluster in; only three are in the photo.
View attachment 1895415

Once these are removed you will need to unhook the speedometer cable; this requires undoing it from a bracket in the footwell to get enough slack to pull the gauge cluster out a couple of inches. Once that is done you will be able to reach behind and detach the cable from the cluster. There is a single squeeze tab on the end of the cable.
View attachment 1895416

After that it is just a matter of unplugging all of the electrical connections on the back of the cluster.
Hi! I’m a guy from Hungary and I own an LJ70 from 1990. I tried to remove the dash, but I don’t get enough space to remove the speedometer cable. Where do I find the bracket in the footwell you mention? ☹️
 
Hi! I’m a guy from Hungary and I own an LJ70 from 1990. I tried to remove the dash, but I don’t get enough space to remove the speedometer cable. Where do I find the bracket in the footwell you mention? ☹️
Push the cable in the engine bay , maybe put out from cable support.
 
I couldn't get a decent photo of it, but the speedometer cable comes up along the inside of the transmission tunnel and then across to the brake pedal brace before heading up to the cluster. There is a little metal tab on the forward part of the transmission tunnel and a plastic clip on the brake pedal brace, if you unhook it from those it should give you enough room to slip your hand behind the cluster to unhook the connection there.
 
I couldn't get a decent photo of it, but the speedometer cable comes up along the inside of the transmission tunnel and then across to the brake pedal brace before heading up to the cluster. There is a little metal tab on the forward part of the transmission tunnel and a plastic clip on the brake pedal brace, if you unhook it from those it should give you enough room to slip your hand behind the cluster to unhook the connection there.
Thank you for the answer! Tomorrow I’ll give one more try. Be ready and patient now... 🤣 Here is the photo of my dash. The lamps marked “1” and “2” don’t light. “2” is the opened door feedback, that’s ok. But what’s the light “1”? Anyway... Can I change all the bulbs? How many do I need? What are the exact types for green and blue, for yellow, for red and for white? 😱

EBC24192-31DA-4C62-B223-D7CF66A3AF77.jpeg


Here ToyoDIY.com - https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_199008_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_LJ70LV-MEXW_8301.2.html I see maybe the the lamps for the white coloured ares. Can the bulbs changed in the ”Lamp Meter No 1, 2, 3 and 4?

 
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I couldn't get a decent photo of it, but the speedometer cable comes up along the inside of the transmission tunnel and then across to the brake pedal brace before heading up to the cluster. There is a little metal tab on the forward part of the transmission tunnel and a plastic clip on the brake pedal brace, if you unhook it from those it should give you enough room to slip your hand behind the cluster to unhook the connection there.

Here is a pic of how it looks from the top. I did exactly what you did to disconnect the cluster from the cable when I replaced my whole speedometer cable with a new one. Not a fun job.

speedocable.jpg



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Thank you for the answer! Tomorrow I’ll give one more try. Be ready and patient now... 🤣 Here is the photo of my dash. The lamps marked “1” and “2” don’t light. “2” is the opened door feedback, that’s ok. But what’s the light “1”? Anyway... Can I change all the bulbs? How many do I need? What are the exact types for green and blue, for yellow, for red and for white? 😱



Here ToyoDIY.com - https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_199008_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_LJ70LV-MEXW_8301.2.html I see maybe the the lamps for the white coloured ares. Can the bulbs changed in the ”Lamp Meter No 1, 2, 3 and 4?


Hello,

Lamp 1 does not light unless you have electric locking hubs.

Lamp 2 is in fact the door ajar reminder. Sometimes it does not light because either it is loose or needs replacement.

Lamps 1 and 2 use white bulbs. So do the lights circled in green, save for the turn lights. A T5 bulb or LED will do.

The odometer requires a green T5 bulb or led.

Turn lights use W10W bulbs or LEDs, white.

Dash lights use W10W bulbs with green caps. You may want to upgrade to green LEDs.

I am not sure about the Turbo/T-Belt lights but quite likely a T5 will do.

This is a good chance to upgrade to LED.

Hope this helps.






Juan
 

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