Build: 2H swap to 1HZ w/turbo in HJ75 Troopy (1 Viewer)

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Mar 27, 2010
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Howdy Y'all!

I am finally swapping out the original stock 2H from my 1985 HJ75 RHD Australian troopy (#1393 so at the beginning). I bought a very low miles 2016 1HZ with turbo from @joekatana and I'm ready to tackle a challenging project! My goal with this thread is to provide a resource to those thinking about making the swap, so as I get questions answered and discover tricks they can be shared here. I've looked all over mud and have found bits and pieces, but nothing comprehensive and hoping this can fill in some gaps.

Background on me: I've never swapped an engine, but everyone tells me it's easy. I have tools, experience with the 2h, 1FZ-FE and 1HDT, and resources, like y'all. The troopy was at a local shop since Feb and they finally said they couldn't do it. I tried reputable shops nearby (@Trollhole or @Gun Runner 5) and would have preferred to pay them, but they are super busy and after many months of waiting already, I'm anxious to get er done. I'm not working right now, so why not?

Yes, I will be selling the 2H, preferably as a whole and in pieces of not. Cyl#6 has no compression and there is a leak up front (water pump seal?). It still runs, but needs a rebuild. The price for the whole will be cheaper than the sum of the individual parts. I'd rather be rebuilding than disassembling and selling.

The plan:
1. Remove the old engine with transmission in tact and try to retain as many original parts as possible. No wire cutting. Remove/retain old engine mounts.
2. Remove the fenders to get at air plenum rust holes.
3. Clean up the engine bay and remove now unnecessary bits. Rust remediation and paint.
4. Rebuild the trans and t-case (since it's out) then attach to the new engine.
5. Prep electrical connections in the engine bay. Trying to source the connectors.
6. Slide the engine/trans in place and bolt up the gear box to locate the engine mounts. Remove engine/trans.
7. Hire welder to attach new engine mounts.
8. Put it all together.
9. New 3" exhaust all the way back.
10. Air/water intercooler. I'll install standard xover pipe initially.
11. 2 week road trip to CO/UT because I really miss the desert!

As I get questions answered, I'll edit the post and insert them in red. I'll add to the resources below as they're found.

Manuals: 2H engine, 1HZ engine, HJ75 chassis, HZJ7x chassis, Toyota electrical connectors
Toyota FSMs

Helpful links:
glow plug wiring, electrical connectors

Gear box videos (can't have too much info):
Terrain Tamer gear box tear down (2 parts) , H55 rebuild (2 parts), getting old input spline out, another gear box tear down (starts at 1:15), Georg's tcase video

Here's the rig (the CO plate is defunct). Lot's of interior and electrical accessory mods.
troopy before 1.JPG


and the engine: 2016 1HZ from Europe with about 37kmiles
1HZ on blocks.JPG
 
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Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
403
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Mount Pleasant, SC
 
 
Took an afternoon to start removing bits and pieces, carefully. Started with the air filter box, since it's easy and makes a lot of room. The lid will need to be replaced with one that aims down towards the turbo. Next came the front grill bits. I'm avoiding removing all the headlight bezels and hoping I can lift the engine over/between what's left. Apparently it's pretty easy to remove the bezel, so I'll tackle it later.

The bumper had to come off, which was easy enough.

Then came the A/C condenser which means no more R12 for me. I'll be swapping out all the oil rings and compressor oil (did this on our HDJ81). I needed to get into the dash anyways to remove the A/C box in order to repair some rust. The condenser looks really beat on, but it held pressure for 35 years so I'm reusing it after a good cleaning.

Then came the radiator. Yes, you have to remove the fan and shroud before you can get it out. This is the stock radiator and it's in great shape, so also reusing it.

The batteries and trays came out, which makes a lot of room.

The starter, ps bits, glow plug, transmission hookups and remaining electrical connections are ready for disconnection. My next priority is make a parts list and get things ordered, because it could be a while before some arrive.

Questions at this point:
Can I reuse the fan shroud or will the fan have shifted up/down/left/right? Hopefully, yes. I have measured the 2H fan location left/right/height and hope to locate the 1HZ in the same spot. The 2H appears to be 1.5" longer than the 1HZ, but the 1HZ bell housing is also 1.5" longer, so the fan should be in the same location.
The A/C hose connections are different from the 2H and look similar to what's on the 80 series. perhaps I can source them locally? No. I am working with a nice AC guy in Indiana to find some parts that will fit. Asking on Mud has not produced.
Is the radiator return hose same as an early FJ80? How about the lower supply hose? The return hose is available. I plan to piece together a supply hose.
Will the two batteries still fit on the right side of the bay? Yes, they should.
Should I take off the headlight framing or will it fit? Recommended that it's removed. I got the engine out with it on, but it would have been much easier without, so I'll try to get it off before reinstalling.
Will the original starter swap over or need replacing? The 2H starter does not fit and will need replacing. I found one on amazon for $135 that's a malaysian knock off. I could have gotten a new toyota for $600, but I'm going to see how long the cheap one lasts.
The voltage regulator has same number of pins. Is the wiring the same, just different connectors?
Any previous solutions for extending the throttle cable? I'm assuming it will be a few inches too short. Bought a new one.
I don't see a glow plug resistor. Where is it supposed to be? Any pics of your 1HZ glow system? The resistor was missing along with all the connections. The 2H has two resistors in series, so I'm going to try using just one and hopefully I don't fry something. I'll look at the wiring diagram first of course.

before
troopy before 2.JPG


after and where it currently sits
2H tear down 2.JPG
 
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ceylonfj40nut

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Great way to jump in. Best way to learn. I am very interested in the AC compressor/ brackets and PS bits if you are parting out the 2H. Also interested in all the throttle body bits. Pls PM me if you can part with these.
 
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Trying match up existing fluid/electrical connections to begin ordering parts. Any help would be appreciated identifying connectors and purposes.
Is there one model of vehicle I could use to source most of these parts like a 1990 HJ80? I need to trace the wiring diagrams for the connections, so any advance info would save lots of time.

1. VSV? I'm assuming I can use the existing wiring, but change out connectors?
2. Fuel line supply. TRUE
3. Fuel bleed. Goes back into the IP on the 2H. Where does this one go? Back to the tank in schematics, so before the fuel filter? Yes back to the tank
4. P/S high pressure line. Need a new line with banjo bolt hook up. Ordered a new line. About $340 after shipping because of the awkward shape. Should bolt right in.
5. Fuel solenoid and tachometer. Is the tach signal the same for the 2H and 1HZ? Connector 90980-11157 from the link in post #1. The 2H tach signal comes off the bell housing sensor, where the 1HZ signal comes off the IP. I've been told (below) that my tach may not work, so we shall see. I found a replacement connector, but they want $75 for it! robbery, but the same site has lots of connectors I may need.
6. Oil cooler. Is this oil temp? The pressure gauge is further aft. There are no existing connections on the 2H for this. Is it needed?

Where does the fuel filter mount? I'm assuming it's the same as on the 1HDT. New filter pump/mount ordered. From pictures I can find, goes on the right side of the bay.

? IP area.JPG
 
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Other questions (for now):
The 2H has two connections: coolant temp sensor and a switch. Where are these on the 1HZ?

What's this guy? Just under the fuel rail and aft of the oil filter. I think I found its match: opposite side on the 2H above the starter?

? 1p water temp.JPG


This recirculates back into the air intake on the 2H. Where does it go on the 1HZ? Same but back into the air pre-turbo. Need to sort a connection.

? valve cover port.JPG


This comes from the vacuum pump. I'm assuming it goes to the p/s booster like on the 2H?

? vacuum to brake booster.JPG


The 2H p/s low pressure line snakes from the gearbox, up in front of the grill (dangerous engineering) and back up to the reservoir. I assume this is to cool the fluid. Is it necessary with the 1HZ? Ordered a new one.

? ps cooler line.JPG
 
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ceylonfj40nut

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You 2H has a tach sensor on the bell housing. Pigtail from sensor attaches to harness close to firewall. You maybe able to splice into the harness and connect to #5. Not sure about your “which wires go where” question.
 
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1 I think this is part of the emissions systems the new 1HZ have. The 1HZ just needs a single 12v wire to the fuel cut solenoid on the injection to stop and start. Its much more simple than the 2H
There should be 3 wires coming off the injection pump.
2 yes
3 fuel return , goes back to tank so you need the HZJ7 fuel pick up with 3 outlets
5 I think you will need the HZJ7 tacho. It gets its signal from the inj pump and is a different signal.

This swap is not as simple as it sounds. Everything on the 2H left is on the right on a 1HZ and vice versa

The spout on the valve cover attaches to the air intake, but I think with a turbo it needs a mod like back to pre turbo.
Normally it plugs into the alloy tube that is part of the air intake.

The 1HZ has 3 places where it gets air, oil and coolant temps for glow plugs as well as gauges

You really need a half cut.
 
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Its much easier with all the bezel removed, it doesnt take long.
Do you have the 1HZ gearbox with it?

Is this out of LHD 7* or 105 series?
Thanks for the input! This is a HJ75 LHD from Aus with the H55F gear box. I'm not sure what kind of vehicle the donor engine came from. I'll go ahead and remove the bezel to make it easier. It all needs some fresh paint anyways. And yes, I am realizing it's not that straight forward for a guy like me, but I have confidence and cajones.
The connector in #1 only goes to the VSV and vacuum lines, but was wondering if the signal is the same coming from the 2H "computer".
The fuel solenoid is one of the pins on the 3pin connector in #5 and the other two go to the back of the IP as you say. My tach is part of the dash package and not a separate gauge. Hopefully I can make it work.

You really need a half cut.
What's a half cut?
 

ceylonfj40nut

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Half cut is a donor truck they cut at the dash and send you the piece between the dash and front grill. A chopped front section containing all the things you need including engine harness and wiring to dash/ ignition.

The 2H does not have a computer or vsv. It has an edic motor/ level that shuts fuel off when you turn the ignition off.
 

Nostradamus

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Dude. This is epic. And thanks for starting a thread. I'll be watching carefully. I am about to embark on a 1HZ transplant into my FJ60. Much of what you document here will be super helpful!
 
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What's a half cut?
A half cut would have given you all the wiring on the engine. You should be able to fit the tacho to your existing dash.
Dude, you have RHD vehicle. The steering wheel is on the RH.

You understand the gearbox on your 2H wont fit to the 1HZ without swapping the input shaft and bellhousing and clutch.
 
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The one pin connector should appears to be in the stock oil pressure sensor location. Also, a common place to feed the turbo oil line (not sure where yours is connected)

3. Fuel returns directly to the tank on my set up.

In the circle, "where does this attach to" that looks like the crankcase breather. My understanding is you have three options. 1. straight to atmosphere, 2. to airbox, 3. catchcan
 

Nostradamus

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George makes a engine mount kit for the 1HZ into a 60 series. Orangefj45 is his MUD name, but I may have spelt it wrong
Thanks. Georg is the one who suggested the 1HZ-T as the best diesel swap to do for my 60 given the long production run of the engine, the availability of parts, and that it takes fairly well to a conservative turbo setup. Ive been on the phone with him many times, and he's been a wealth of info, and a collaborator (he and I worked on the prototypes of his Saginaw PS swap for the 2F engine). Great guy, and definitely the source of my engine mounts for this swap!
 
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2H is out of the truck! The process was pretty straightforward. Just follow the FSM. I can now see where all the 2H sensors are, so I'm going to match everything up as best as possible from the wiring diagrams. I've found a connector company, but they are super proud of what they're selling ($75 for the IP connector). I I don't have a good solution for the connectors yet. I left the headlight bezel frame on, but should have taken it off and will do so before the install. The engine lift was maxed out and my wife levered the t-case up over the bezel frame. I also removed all the accessories/pumps (for sale!) and drained everything to make it lighter.

I jacked up the trans on a furniture dolly thinking it would all slide out together. Once I lifted the engine and pulled on it, the jack shifted and became pointless. Nice idea but ultimately unnecessary.
trans jack.JPG


The engine mounts got bound up a bit when I lifted, but it came free easily when I pried them off. Highly recommend the $50 engine leveler! Note the top of the trans clearing the firewall. I know this engine/trans combo is probably about 1/2T, so I was a little worried about having the arm fully extended, but it was fine.
2H coming out.JPG


As I pulled it forward, I kept lifting and shifting the weight forward and tilting with the engine leveler. Note the oil pan clearance.
2H oil pan clearance.JPG


Again, would have been easier to remove the headlight frame.
2H xfer case clearance.JPG


And, it is out!
2H out.JPG
 

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