6BT/NV4500/HF2AV Build Thread - New Adapter

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Can you run the special oil in the case too? The Toyota split case seems pretty tuff. My first cruiser did the pumping thing and my case was bone dry. Yould never know from driving it though.
I did for the last 8K but it seemed to run hotter with the Amsoil transaxle special stuff. Back to 90W now.
 
Mine leaked so much of the expensive NV4500 special synthetic stuff that I just run regular gear oil in it. If I can get it to not leak anymore I'll swap back to that special synthetic stuff.

Would love to have AWD for winter country and city roads again. Would also love stronger axles but gotta do one thing at a time.

Edit: the only other thing I'd like to do would be pull the PTO cover off the NV4500, drill and weld bungs for 1/4"NPT, then 90 degree elbows to barbed hose fittings with a piece of clear silicone tubing between them so I can see fluid level, maybe weld a couple fins on either side to protect it. Just not sure what temp range it would need to handle.
 
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Just curious if anyone will be making any of the t-case adapters in the future?
I might be...working with a friend of mine that owns a machine shop

Edit: the only other thing I'd like to do would be pull the PTO cover off the NV4500, drill and weld bungs for 1/4"NPT, then 90 degree elbows to barbed hose fittings with a piece of clear silicone tubing between them so I can see fluid level, maybe weld a couple fins on either side to protect it. Just not sure what temp range it would need to handle.
@Wheelingnoob @thegogglesdonothing and I all have the same NV4500 cooler that replaces the driver side PTO cover. @thegogglesdonothing and both have the version that includes a sight hole so you can visually check the fluid level.
 
That's pretty cool. Pun intended.


ZING!!!!!

They might be worth a look if I was splitting with another member, I'm sure the extra fluid capacity would have its merits, but the last time I purchased the special fancy NV4500 HD gear oil it was like $26 (CAD) a quart, just a heads up, the cooler might be the cheap part of the upgrade.
 
The Amsoil Trans-Axle oil is cheaper yet still qualifies for fancy legit stuff for the tranny.
 
The Amsoil Trans-Axle oil is cheaper yet still qualifies for fancy legit stuff for the tranny.

Went to the amsoil website, seems like this is the one: Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90

Was about to ask you for a link and then figured I could do that myself..


As to how many quarts, the below link says the factory spec is 4 (without cooler) but many of them run 5 quarts, and fill from the shifter tunnel.

If I pull my trans again for a HF2AV swap, I'm gonna weld a bung higher up to fill from a higher point, and may just install a sight glass plug in the factory 3/4NPT fill hole.

For those not in the know, you can just buy one from summit for $8
Summit Racing® Weld-In Bungs SUM-220074

Summit Racing® Weld-In Bungs SUM-220074


NV4500, how many quarts? - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
 
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Fluid - NV4500Transmission.com
I used this recently. I believe I got from Grangier and it was a tad cheaper than the other stuff. I need to buy some more since in deep into tranny swap at the moment. Seem like high tech fluid is more common now as everything now seems to need "special" oils.
 
This is a bump, but I have a question:

The adapter pattern doesn't match the output housing off the dodge, it seems to either match the split case/toyota 60 series or the dodge trans.

Can we get a picture of the adapter plate in place, and how you did your transfercase/transmission bushings to the skid plate crossmember assembly?

I'm thinking either the adapter is for the AA adapter or something. The dodge output is a similar 6 bolt in a hex type pattern to the HF2A case. If you removed that output case (which I'm not sure you could) that would shorten things up alot.

Edit: actually, I'm thinking this could be simplified with a very simple adapter plate and the AA shaft, which is basically a socket you slide over the 29 splined shaft output off the NV4500 after you cut it down.

The other end is 19 spline which is for the split case, but I believe it is the same as the HF2A, it may be longer and have threads at the end which could just be shortened possibly.

The adapter would be a hexagonal plate with 12 bolt holes and and one center hole.

I'm going to have to look at it this week.
 
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This is a bump, but I have a question:

The adapter pattern doesn't match the output housing off the dodge, it seems to either match the split case/toyota 60 series or the dodge trans.

Can we get a picture of the adapter plate in place, and how you did your transfercase/transmission bushings to the skid plate crossmember assembly?

I'm thinking either the adapter is for the AA adapter or something. The dodge output is a similar 6 bolt in a hex type pattern to the HF2A case. If you removed that output case (which I'm not sure you could) that would shorten things up alot.

Edit: actually, I'm thinking this could be simplified with a very simple adapter plate and the AA shaft, which is basically a socket you slide over the 29 splined shaft output off the NV4500 after you cut it down.

The other end is 19 spline which is for the split case, but I believe it is the same as the HF2A, it may be longer and have threads at the end which could just be shortened possibly.

The adapter would be a hexagonal plate with 12 bolt holes and and one center hole.

I'm going to have to look at it this week.
I have everything apart at the moment so I can get any photo necessary of the NV4500 & split case adapters. That damn rear main went on me.
EDIT. I jumped the gun. I assume you want to see the HF2A adapter.
 
I have everything apart at the moment so I can get any photo necessary of the NV4500 & split case adapters. That damn rear main went on me.

Please do. Lots of pictures of the whole deal.

Sorry to hear about the rear main, I think mine just seeps oil from every seem. I keep filling it up instead of looking for leaks, at least the oil keeps the rust at bay.

I believe the rear main seal can be replaced without any work to the crank on the 6BT, which is a huge plus. Dropping the transmission and oil pan though...
 
Please do. Lots of pictures of the whole deal.

Sorry to hear about the rear main, I think mine just seeps oil from every seem. I keep filling it up instead of looking for leaks, at least the oil keeps the rust at bay.

I believe the rear main seal can be replaced without any work to the crank on the 6BT, which is a huge plus. Dropping the transmission and oil pan though...
You can remove the rear main retainer and install or install right on the back of the engine.
I believe Dustin's adapter is a spud shaft like you were stating just like the split case adapter.
 
In the original post I mentioned that draglink clearance was going to be tight. Indeed it was more than tight at full bump. My motor is from a '92 Dodge 2500. I don't know if it was 2wd or 4wd but the pan sump was about an inch longer than some of the newer pans. I ended up buying a pan from cummins for $120. Offbrand ones on ebay were running $105 so this was great. Here are a few pics of the two pans.
View attachment 1479683

While it doesn't look like much...that my friends is enough difference in length to make it so I don't have to drop my bump stops!

View attachment 1479684

Here's the Cummins number for it 3949338:
View attachment 1479685

I don't know the stock application, but I think second gen trucks that are 4wd have a pan similar to this.

To change a first gen motor to use this pan you need to either replace the pick up tube or modify it. I chose to heat it and bend it as it is just tube. Here is a pic:

View attachment 1479692

BTW...getting off the glued on gasket that this motor had was a serious chore. Took an hour or more of scraping...not fun...

I realize you simply modified the pickup tube to work with the later-style oil pan.

Any chance you know the PN for the later-style pickup tube? Or what years/trucks the late-style pan and pickup tube came on?
 
I realize you simply modified the pickup tube to work with the later-style oil pan.

Any chance you know the PN for the later-style pickup tube? Or what years/trucks the late-style pan and pickup tube came on?

Sorry I don’t. Although I believe I pulled the pan part number off a 24v 5.9 at work. I can see if that engine is still around and try and get some data plate info for it if you want.
 
I rebuilt the trans and added the new shafts last weekend and got everything bolted up this weekend. I am going to run 37's but want to keep the CG as low as possible and liked the idea of having a bit more clearance around the trans tunnel so I opted for a 1" body lift.

Ready for the new motor...

I removed the springs to make sure everything will clear at full bump. This was kind of a mistake I think. I ended up jacking the body back up as it made snaking the motor and trans in easier.

Great build thread. Thank you for sharing. In your opinion, would a 2 inch body lift provide adequate clearance for the Cummins/nv4500?
 
With no suspension? I’d guess it would. I actually think 1” or even no body lift may be possible as well. Just depends where you put the motor.
 

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