6bt cummins NV4500 1996 LX450 swap (1 Viewer)

[Major Tom]

Jason Harris (Ozark overland outfitters) told me several months back that he used Toyota master/slave on his nv4500 swaps and made a bracket to mount the Toyota slave in the Dodge bellhousing.

I finally decided to pull out the Dodge nv4500 hydraulics and try a Toyota master/slave setup. Today, I looked around the scrap pile and found a few pieces of metal to use to make a test bracket to mount a toyota slave in the dodge bellhousing.

 

[Major Tom]

 

[Will Van]

I decided to pull out the dodge nv4500 hydraulics and try a toyota master/slave setup. Today, I looked around the scrap pile and found a few pieces of metal to use to make a test bracket to mount a toyota slave in the dodge bellhousing.

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Another option:

Builds - Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dirty-koala-build-cummins-6bt-nv4500-hf2av-swap.804271/page-44#post-12354745

Builds - Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dirty-koala-build-cummins-6bt-nv4500-hf2av-swap.804271/page-45#post-12355022

 

[Major Tom]

Another option:

Builds - Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dirty-koala-build-cummins-6bt-nv4500-hf2av-swap.804271/page-44#post-12354745

Builds - Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dirty-koala-build-cummins-6bt-nv4500-hf2av-swap.804271/page-45#post-12355022

Thank you for the reference! Putting an nv3500 slave on is my last option. I really like this Toyota Slave and want to attempt using it. I like the fact that I can adjust it and it has the same thread size as the brake lines with a brake caliper style bleed screw. It fits well in the space and the bleed screw is easy to access. I'll keep you updated on how it performs.

 

[Major Tom]

More post on fixing mistakes..... I mounted my center diff shifter too far back and it interfered with the console area. I finally modified my bracket and set it closer in the transmission shifter.

Old shifter position:

New Location:

 

[Major Tom]

Here's the mounting locations for the center diff shifter bracket. I used a piece of aluminum for the shifter cover. I added some sound deadener and reused the toyota rubber shifter covers. Now it's significantly quieter in the truck after sealing the area around the shifters.

 

[Major Tom]

Testing the 3.55 gears from PDI in Australia. I'm cruising in 4th gear at 55 mph at 2000 rpm's and 70 mph in 5th gear at 2000 rpm's.

 

[Major Tom]

I finally got the clutch to fully disengage. I played with an nv4500 hydraulic setup (master/slave) and a full Toyota setup (80 Series master/slave). My final setup is a 80 series master cylinder and a 2000 Dodge NV4500 slave with a 13/16' bore. The slave cylinder came with a 4.5" pushrod and I was not getting a full disengagement. I made a 5" pushrod out of some .25" Stainless Steel solid round stock and immediately got full disengagement. I also welded in a spacer in the master cylinder pedal yoke (pictured). This setup was based off:

Builds - Cummins 6bt/nv4500 build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cummins-6bt-nv4500-build.719831/post-10264118

Builds - Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dirty-koala-build-cummins-6bt-nv4500-hf2av-swap.804271/page-44#post-12354745

Builds - Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dirty-koala-build-cummins-6bt-nv4500-hf2av-swap.804271/page-45#post-12355022

While playing with the clutch pedal, I did some more heating/bending on both the brake and clutch pedal to make the brake position comfortable.
While playing with the Toyota clutch pedal, I removed the cantilever spring system and did some clearancing on the clutch frame to help increase the travel. I installed the clutch pedal without the cantilever system and the pedal was positioned at a higher level and had much more travel. I got full disengagement of the nv4500 slave but it wasn't comfortable. When the cantilever system was re-installed, the pedal was much easier the push and felt more comfortable.

I do believed that using the whole nv4500 hydraulic system could work in this application with the extra pedal travel if someone wanted to play with it. However, the 80 series master cylinder already fits and is easy to work with. All you need is a custom hose connecting the master/slave and to extend you slave pushrod from 4.5" to 5". If you make your pushrod 5.5” long, the clutch won’t disengage.


Fittings for the clutch hose included:

• M10x1.0 to 3AN Fitting - Male Adapter For Brake Clutch Fuel and Oil - (M10-AN3) for the Toyota master cylinder.
• M10x1.0 to 3AN Fitting Russell 640281 -3 AN SAE Adapter Fitting for the slave cylinder.
• Braided hose for brake/clutch application with 90 degree ends. The speed shop crimped one end and I took the hose back to my shop and indexed/marked where the other end needed to be crimped.

Master cylinder pedal yoke:

Clutch Pedal/Brake Pedal final shape:

Clutch travel without spring system:


Clutch pedal without spring system after increasing clearance.

 

[Major Tom]

M10x1.0 to 3AN Fitting - Male Adapter For Brake Clutch Fuel and Oil - (M10-AN3) for the Toyota master cylinder.

M10x1.0 to 3AN Fitting Russell 640281 -3 AN SAE Adapter Fitting for the slave cylinder.

Clutch line with 3AN 90 degree end connections. For my setup with the position of the motor the overall length was 42". The line was cut at 41" and the fittings added an extra inch.

NV4500 Slave cylinder. Having an 8"x8" wood block gives you a good surface to pump the slave and bleed the line.

I found that zipties work well when installing.

 

[Major Tom]

My motor has been running rough since I installed it. It's had a rough idle between 900-1200 rpms and has lacked power. I took the truck to a diesel shop in south Tupelo to have them fix it. They fiddle-farted around with it for three days and their conclusion was that the motor mounts were too small (Bull).

I studied up on timing the motor and pump and decided to DIY it. Cutterup Rob on youtube had some good videos on the subject.




HOW TO TIME A 12 VALVE CUMMINS ( P-7100 PUMP ) - https://youtu.be/RPsCAth3brw?si=MkpbMBsBH1kYCiqG

I ordered a set of injectors, delivery valve socket, and a cummins timing kit and welded up a fitting like Cutterup Rob's to turn the pump. The timing kit came with straightforward instructions and the overall process was easy.

I timed the motor/pump at 14 degrees and ordered the new injectors from Pensacola Diesel (they have great support) and installed them. Now the motor is running like a scalded dog. I would have paid the diesel shop in Tupelo whatever they wanted to troubleshoot and fix the issue but I'm kinda glad they laid down on the job. It forced me to learn to time the motor and get some valuable experience tuning a Cummins motors.

Borescope video checking the timing marks. First view is of the timing marker in the P7100 and the second is the timing slot on the motor.


Screenshot from Cutterup Rob's youtube video of the pump jam nut to turn the pump once you've separated the gear from the pump shaft.

Gear puller separating the gear from the pump shaft.

Dial gauge on the #1 delivery valve to check TDC on the pump.

My version of Cutterup Rob's jam nut on the pump shaft. It worked!!

P7100 timing marker.

 

[Major Tom]

This truck is fun to drive!

Tonight I laid down on the Cummins after getting the clutch and motor lined out. It will run 80 mph. It's much more comfortable at 65-70 mph. The steering is wandering and I'm just not confident right now at 80mph. I have a standard dobinson steering stabilizer installed right now but I'm looking into upgrades on the steering stabilizer.

I'm also about to chase down a wobble that I'm getting when I let off the throttle and begin to brake.

 

[Major Tom]

I've been testing the truck while working out of town. On my first tank, I averaged 17.8 mpg. This was during testing when I was running 75-80 mph and really pushing the truck. On my next tank, I averaged 20 mpg. On the second tank, I tried to maintain 62-63 mph (1800 rpm's) on the highway and keep my shift point at 2000 rpms (or below).

I still feel the motor needs some more tuning and I have a diesel leak somewhere on the pump side as well. The clutch system seems to work well in the morning when I first drive the truck. Throughout the day, the clutch seems to get lazy, so I'm planning to learn more about that as well.

Next up on the to-do list:

1. Install Alpine head unit and speakers.
2. Get A/C lines built and test the A/C system.
3. Build front/rear bumpers and roof rack.
4. Learn to build with carbon fiber and build a new snorkel, air filter box, intercooler tubing and console/shift cover (link below).

DIY Homemade Carbon Fiber Snorkel - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/diy-homemade-carbon-fiber-snorkel.485105/

 

[Major Tom]

Interior work: Sunroof delete..
Completion date: February 2023.

1. Sunroof panel was sanded and painted.
2. Dynamat was added.
3. Plastic sunroof housing was modified and installed.
4. Sunroof liner piece was slid in place before the main roof liner was installed.

Painted sunroof panel with dynamat:

Plastic sunroof housing. This part was retained.

Plastic sunroof housing. This part was deleted.

Plastic housing after installation.

Plastic housing after installation.

 

[Major Tom]

Interior work: Carpet install
Completion date: February 2023.

1. Carpet kit was purchased from @Tupelo Honey
2. Color is Sandstone.
3. The heavy sub-layer padding was ordered with the carpet kit.
4. Solder guns were used to burn holes through the carpet where needed.

 

[Major Tom]

Interior work: Door panel rebuild
Completion date: February 2023.

1. Door leather from Mosley Motors was used to replace the original Lexus leather on the doors. I had a local interior shop sew in the new material.
2. New fiberboard material was traced and cut.
3. Fiberglass resin was added to the new fiberboard door cards.
4. Visqueen was used to replace to vapor barrier.
5. 3M tape and duct tape were used to secure the visqueen.
   
   
   

 

[Major Tom]

Thanks to @OMOAms for creating this and sharing!!

 

[UnknownCompany]

Interior work: Carpet install
Completion date: February 2023.

1. Carpet kit was purchased from @Tupelo Honey
2. Color is Sandstone.
3. The heavy sub-layer padding was ordered with the carpet kit.
4. Solder guns were used to burn holes through the carpet where needed.

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The detail in this build thread is awesome, the sunroof delete is something I think about often. Really an amazing build and thank you for sharing the process!
Was this the mass backed carpet? How was the install over that "Heavy Sub Layer".

 

[family80]

My two favorite things haha nice work

 

[Major Tom]

The detail in this build thread is awesome, the sunroof delete is something I think about often. Really an amazing build and thank you for sharing the process!
Was this the mass backed carpet? How was the install over that "Heavy Sub Layer".

Thank you for the comment. This LX450 has been a rolling classroom for me. @Tupelo Honey sells these carpet kits. I ordered the carpet with “mass backing”. I didn’t have any trouble with fitting the carpet over the mass backing.

 

[Major Tom]

I've been working on my coolant lines. Here's a couple of resources that have been helpful.

PDF documents attached..

Gate's hoses with specs and photos:
https://www.gates.com/content/dam/g...gs/gates-molded-coolant-hose-id-guide_web.pdf

Gate's powergrip hose clamps.
https://www.grainger.com/search/pip...ar=true&suggestConfigId=1&tier=Not+Applicable