Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap

mryanangel

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@mryanangel do you have a photo of your crossmember trans mount. Thats my project this weekend and want to know how much you spaced your trans above the crossmember. Thanks.
Post #419 is where I have the details and pics. I used a piece of 1" x 2" rectangular tube to space the dodge trans mount up off the Toyota crossmember.
 

mryanangel

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This week I noticed my rear diff was leaking from the pinion seal. I know that Zuk used a Marlin seal when building the diff which works really well, so assumed it was leaking through the pinion splines. Turned out this was the case, there was no sealant used on the splines.
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I pulled the companion flange, seal and cleaned up the mating surfaces.
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A thin coat of FIPG on the pinion splines and 3rd seal surface should seal her up good and tight.
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Knocked in a new Marlin seal I picked up from Kurt ...it's particularly handy living/working 5 miles from @cruiseroutfit.

Since I have a Nitro solid collar spacer I was able to simply torque the pinion nut back to 181ft/lbs and restake it.
20190414_155113.jpg
 
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Mr Cimarron

DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT
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So are you using the spacer to make up difference in driveshaft length after conversion? I put my rear on the other night and it looks like I need to lengthen about an inch.
 

mryanangel

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So are you using the spacer to make up difference in driveshaft length after conversion? I put my rear on the other night and it looks like I need to lengthen about an inch.
I don't have any spacer in my driveshaft.

The solid collar is inside the 3rd member. I had it installed when the diff was regeared and harrops installed. It replaces the crush collar which makes replacing seals easier since you don't have to worry about changing the pinion preload like you would with a crush collar.

My rear driveshaft is a retubed 80 series shaft, but the factory length shaft still fits just fine. When we were at the end of HITR and I snapped the yoke on my custom rear shaft, I borrowed a spare 80 series shaft from @apinti and it fit just fine.

I now have a retubed shaft that I got from @Box Rocket as my daily and had a really beefy spare shaft made by GSR drivelines.
 
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mryanangel

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ugh the prep work, I am planning to monstaline my 80 but I am totally new to this. How did you mask off all of the
I probably should have spent more time on prep than I did, but its just a matter of removing as much stuff as you want to. I was replacing all my window trim and seals at the same time so I pulled them out and taped up everything i didn't want to get Monstaliner on. Pretty much the same process as taping a bedroom before painting.
 
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I probably should have spent more time on prep than I did, but its just a matter of removing as much stuff as you want to. I was replacing all my window trim and seals at the same time so I pulled them out and taped up everything i didn't want to get Monstaliner on. Pretty much the same process as taping a bedroom before painting.
Thank you, Also what was the total cost of removing all the windows and replacing all the seals?
 

mryanangel

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It's been about 4 years since I did it...but I think it was in the ballpark of $500 for all the seals and trim.
 

mryanangel

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Been prepping for SWAdventure19, too many things to get done, but knocking off the critical ones.

I mounted up the freshly powdercoated custom front bumper...really happy with how it all came out. The winch fit without any mods which was a pleasant surprise. I have 3 Baja Designs LP9's to go on it, but that wiring is on the 'Nice to Have'list for this trip...probably won't get to it in time. Focusing on the 'Critical' list at the moment.
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I was having a low idle issue since we pulled the throttle linkage off to access the panhard for welding, it was idling at 450 rpm and when not fully warmed up would shut off if I didnt hold the throttle....very annoying. I took care of that with a 10mm wrench, simple job made difficult by a hard to reach bolt. Idles at 900 rpm now.
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I figured it was time for an oil change so dumped out the 12 quarts and spent an hour getting the old filter off...had to hammer a screwdriver through it 6 times to get it off...I need to talk to the guy that put that filter on with a gorilla grip. For oil I went with a very high zinc 15w-40 synthetic that Power Driven Diesel had formulated specifically for these old Diesels...much better for the longevity of these motors than the new low zinc oils that are being produced by the masses.

I then stripped down the front axle and pulled the 3rd member out which had blown the paper gasket out and was leaking.

I decided to replace all the studs and nuts with 10.9 hardware from @NLXTACY just in case the old studs had stretched. The factory torque spec is 20ft/lbs...with the stronger hardware I went to 30 ft/lbs. This time I didnt use a paper gasket, instead I used the black 'The Right Stuff' gasket maker...supposed to work well..we shall see.
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As I was cleaning up my tools tonight I noticed that my trans to bell housing bolts were not all where they are supposed to be :bang: 2 of the 4 bolts are MIA. I guess I must have not used loctight on them when I mated the trans to bell housing.
20190421_220248.jpg


I pulled one one of the remaining 2 bolts to check size, pitch and length 1/2-13 x 2" I think. I have that exact size in my bolt drawers..but only in grade 5. Going to source some grade 8 tomorrow.
 

maxamillion2345

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Elko, NV
Thank you!
Pull the sunroof, its easy. I’d probably pay to have the windshield pulled and hatch glass. I taped mine and used a razor blade to trim tape but it came out kinda s***ty. Id pull the hood and fenders too. The belt moulding is about 300$ for the full set and the clips are easy to break but you should pull that too.

Oh and I’d pull the hatch and tailgate.

Order plenty of trim clips and a plastic tool for popping those loose, be cautious the door panels are easy to break where the clips slide into the fiberboard. Pull your interior panels and the door handles. Buy some butyl tape and be real careful pulling the vapor barrier. May need a hair dryer to help warm up the butyl tape.

Then theres the whole s***show of the roof rack... thats a mess up there.

I’d pull your flares too. And all the trim, badging, lights etc

Its a lot of work but itll come out a lot better if you take the time to remove everything.

Keep in mind you’ll spend probably 200$ on consumables and prep stuff. Buy a lot of rollers, like 10.

Do your research on pulling all these parts and be careful. Get a helper on paint day, read the full 40 page thread in the paint and body forum, and read the 18 page thread in the 80 forum. Follow the directions real well on prep.

Go hard on the full sleeve ppe and eye pro, and make sure you have a lot of ventilation. Cover ground real well, I had quite a bit sling off roller.
 
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mryanangel

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Thank you, Also what was the total cost of removing all the windows and replacing all the seals?
Good catch on the tranny bolts.
Yeah definately, I would not have been happy if I figured that out in the middle of the desert. I picked up new grade 8 bolts and washers today from Bolt & Nut supply...plus spares just in case.
 

mryanangel

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Tonight after getting the kiddos to bed I got back under the truck and replaced the 4 transmission to bellhousing bolts with the grade 8 hardware I picked up at lunch. Hopefully the blue medium strength thread locker will keep them where they belong...I went with 60 ft/lbs.
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I always work slower in the dark, but I popped the tie rod back in and then got the passenger side knuckle all back together, would have been faster if I didn't pull the hub seal, clean and repack bearings and replace the brake pads...but 'while you're in there' happened.
20190422_231035.jpg


Also started removing the ABS harness...plugged up the hole with a little piece of anodized aluminum from @NLXTACY.
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Fellas, long time lurker here but I have been assembling a cummins, nv4500, splitcase (with twin sticks) for the past year. I am close to putting it in my 80 and have been pondering the clutch pedal, master, and slave setup. I see it looks like some have used an 80 clutch pedal with dodge master/slave. Is the "all dodge" setup working ok or should I consider a different approach. Also are you happy with a dodge pedal also or does it require too much firewall modification. Thanks Fred
 

mryanangel

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Fellas, long time lurker here but I have been assembling a cummins, nv4500, splitcase (with twin sticks) for the past year. I am close to putting it in my 80 and have been pondering the clutch pedal, master, and slave setup. I see it looks like some have used an 80 clutch pedal with dodge master/slave. Is the "all dodge" setup working ok or should I consider a different approach. Also are you happy with a dodge pedal also or does it require too much firewall modification. Thanks Fred
I am using an 80 series pedal and master cylinder + NV3500 slave cylinder connected by a stainless braided line with (I think) 3AN ends plus adapters. Mine has been solid for 4 years running, and a lot of that running really hard!

Those that have used the dodge master and slave cylinder had to make a twist on adapter to hold the master to the firewall, but no one to my knowledge had to modify their firewall.
 
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Thanks. I will go your route since it is proven. I think I read your post on using the nv3500 slave vs the nv4500 (volume ?). I will try to source an 80 clutch pedal /bucket.
 
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