'68 build-- aka -- TANK

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reevesci said:
Yes, I have done many motors and headers months after the painting. I bring the motor up to operating temp and then I let it idle in the driveway for 45-60 min. Seems to cure and harden better..

I'll have the hats for sale in a couple weeks.

J
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How durable is the paint after it is cured? Does it change color?
 
Jdc1 said:
How durable is the paint after it is cured? Does it change color?
Click to expand...

The VHT engine or Header paint is better than any other I've used. My header experience has been around a 7 of 10. I had some blistering on one (due to applying a thick coat and not letting it dry long enough before running the ramp up temp/times) another almost perfect , and other than that not too much discoloration (slight "whiting" at the hard bends before the collector).. I am thinking I want to use a VHT clear over the top of the satin/matte this time. See if it will help reduce the road grime build-up. The paint is more textured and seems to hold things where a clear coat may help reduce this. It may be a waste of 9$, but I'm willing to experiment.
 
Short of ceramic or jet coating , VHT is as good as it gets . I do prefer the jet coating , but it isn't cheap .

Doing the 3-wire is easy , really . The big benefit is the alternator can instantly read a load and respond . I set mine up with a single draw/charge post similar to what MAD electrical sells and it works wonders , even on the old stock system . Just finished up wiring a 55 Chevy with the same design and voltage holds dead steady at idle even with all accessories at full load .

Sarge
 
^x2 on the MAD instructions and using a 3 wire alt.

Not as hard as it sounds and works really well. Plus, once you understand a 3 wire alt, the whole mystery behind a charging system is gone and troubleshooting is super easy.
 
Weber Sarge said:
Short of ceramic or jet coating , VHT is as good as it gets . I do prefer the jet coating , but it isn't cheap .

Doing the 3-wire is easy , really . The big benefit is the alternator can instantly read a load and respond . I set mine up with a single draw/charge post similar to what MAD electrical sells and it works wonders , even on the old stock system . Just finished up wiring a 55 Chevy with the same design and voltage holds dead steady at idle even with all accessories at full load .

Sarge
Click to expand...

71FJnick said:
^x2 on the MAD instructions and using a 3 wire alt.

Not as hard as it sounds and works really well. Plus, once you understand a 3 wire alt, the whole mystery behind a charging system is gone and troubleshooting is super easy.
Click to expand...


Looks doable I think... HA! I will be ordering a wiring harness kit from SOR in the next couple of weeks. I don't need much for amps so the 60 series 55 amp will serve me just fine. Maybe bump up to the 80 amp 3FE but that would be extreme overkill for this rig.

J
 
The 60 series alternator is an easy swap. Besides the large wire that goes to the battery, you only need a key on hot wire from the ignition. You already have a wire that can work. Just connect or splice together the ignition (black/yellow or red/black depending on year) and the field wire (white/green stripe) at the voltage regulator on the fire wall. Then plug the other end of the field wire into the Ign terminal on the back of the 60 alternator.
 
Pin_Head said:
The 60 series alternator is an easy swap. Besides the large wire that goes to the battery, you only need a key on hot wire from the ignition. You already have a wire that can work. Just connect or splice together the ignition (black/yellow or red/black depending on year) and the field wire (white/green stripe) at the voltage regulator on the fire wall. Then plug the other end of the field wire into the Ign terminal on the back of the 60 alternator.
Click to expand...

Pin, I don't have a factory wiring harness, ground zero start.. I will need to pick some brains once I start running the new aftermarket harness.

J
 
If you have a voltage regulator and an alternator, you have the necessary wires, even if they are not stock. No big deal.
 
60 trans X-member is modified. Nice to have it rolling now. Ended up at 3.2 degrees slope. Pretty happy with that.

J

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Jdc1 said:
You mentioned that you have a smaller compressor set up. What are you using for painting?
Click to expand...


I use a 5HP-- 60-- gallon 15 SCFM for painting with HVLP Sata Jet 2000.

I honestly use to use the purple Harbor Freight guns and they are actually decent guns for a job or two.. especially for epoxy, high build primers and POR15/Chassis Saver applications.. I use Nason (DuPont commercial line) paint... THIN material and works well with the 1.4- 1.8mm tips.

J
 
Set the tub on to check clearances on a few items... transmission tunnel, wheel wells, header to 60 modded trans Xmember and twin stick set up on Hi-Lo lever. All is good, but the tunnel needs to be opened up a bit more to clear the taller 60 top plate and the rear edge at the TC needs some attention.

I'm going to see if I can clear everything with tunnel and pan adjustments. Otherwise ( AND NOT WANTED.. 1" body-lift) or drop the transmission mount a tad more. I'm right at the OE slope and the rear driveshaft angle would appreciate a more gradual slope/pitch IMO..

J

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Brought the hard sides in to test fit and evaluate. The rear corner radii will need some massaging, but not too bad. Got them stripped down this morning and added to the 2nd stage pile..

Looking around 26" from floor to bottom of rocker. Once I address the trans tunnel... the tub will be pulled, stood on end, bottom stripped and 2 coats of Chassis Saver from @magnetman.

J

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