60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Update to the last shock tuning post. Removed 3 clicks (2clicks from full clockwise) of rebound and added a click of HSC in the rear and it’s MONEY.

I was getting some harshness from being over damped on rebound and the compression was over compensating after big speed humps. It’s smoother now and softer and less bouncy even with less rebound dampening.

What I’ve been realizing is when in doubt. Add more compression. You need way more then you think and running open compression is NOT the move
 
Last edited:
Just a quick reminder to anyone doing this swap. Its easy to get in the weeds with everything going on, but dont forget the little bits that you need to do during the swap that dont seem super duper important....



Like greasing your front caliper pins.


jMUZEbm.jpg
 
Not sure to put this here or the LS Swap thread.

Anyone getting brake drag on both axles when hot? It’s getting toasty here in ABQ and after a bit sometimes I’m getting brake drag on both front and rear circuits
 
Not sure to put this here or the LS Swap thread.

Anyone getting brake drag on both axles when hot? It’s getting toasty here in ABQ and after a bit sometimes I’m getting brake drag on both front and rear circuits
I would say this is the proper place or start a new thread about the issue.
 
Not sure to put this here or the LS Swap thread.

Anyone getting brake drag on both axles when hot? It’s getting toasty here in ABQ and after a bit sometimes I’m getting brake drag on both front and rear circuits
What MC and booster are you using? Is it your front brakes? I was getting brake drag but i didnt grease my slide pins like at all on the front. I got new pads, geased my pins and the issue seems to be gone
 
What MC and booster are you using? Is it your front brakes? I was getting brake drag but i didnt grease my slide pins like at all on the front. I got new pads, geased my pins and the issue seems to be gone
80 series stuff. I am not sure on the greased pins I can check.

It’s both front and rear circuits. Goes away after I park it for an hour
 
80 series stuff. I am not sure on the greased pins I can check.

It’s both front and rear circuits. Goes away after I park it for an hour
Weird. id check your front pads for wear and also the parking brake tension on the rears just to be sure. wonder if the MC or booster is slightly out of adjustment or something
 
80 series stuff. I am not sure on the greased pins I can check.

It’s both front and rear circuits. Goes away after I park it for an hour

Did you recently replace your booster? Push rod depth set correctly?

I did, and I thought I did with the tool. But that’s something on my list to check

Check and correct if needed the booster rod to MC depth. If the rod is adjusted into the MC too deep it will be constantly applying pressure, then when the brake fluid heats and expands more pressure will be applied. Since it happens at all 4 corners, and the booster push rod depth affects the whole system this is the first thing I would check.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom