60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion (2 Viewers)

[BurntToast]

Oh awesome! I saw amazon basics has a butyl sound deadener now thats got good reviews, but i needed to find the second foam layer from somewhere. Ill check this place out!

I used MLV from these guys

Luxury Liner Pro™ Sheet - MLV + Foam

Get the best mass loaded vinyl and heat insulation barrier for your car. When used with Second Skin Audio sound deadening, any car can be a luxury vehicle.

www.secondskinaudio.com

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I used MLV from these guys

Luxury Liner Pro™ Sheet - MLV + Foam

Get the best mass loaded vinyl and heat insulation barrier for your car. When used with Second Skin Audio sound deadening, any car can be a luxury vehicle.

www.secondskinaudio.com

Check out what I mentioned.

 

[BurntToast]

Check out what I mentioned.

Posted at the same time haha

 

[Roonie]

I used MLV from these guys

Luxury Liner Pro™ Sheet - MLV + Foam

Get the best mass loaded vinyl and heat insulation barrier for your car. When used with Second Skin Audio sound deadening, any car can be a luxury vehicle.

www.secondskinaudio.com

I heard 54 sq ft will work with this stuff. I am about to buy it as well and install. I have my new carpet, new seatbelts going with retractable rears, and going to soundproof it all while replacing the carpet.

 

[BurntToast]

I heard 54 sq ft will work with this stuff. I am about to buy it as well and install. I have my new carpet, new seatbelts going with retractable rears, and going to soundproof it all while replacing the carpet.

Getting way off topic but, which retractable rears are you going with? I want to do the same

 

[Roonie]

Getting way off topic but, which retractable rears are you going with? I want to do the same

Sorry for off topic but answering question........I went to seatbelt planet and bought their front and rears that retract. Also found the unicorn OEM trim piece made in the 89/90 FJ62 for retractable seat belts.

 

[Spook50]

Sorry for off topic but answering question........I went to seatbelt planet and bought their front and rears that retract. Also found the unicorn OEM trim piece made in the 89/90 FJ62 for retractable seat belts.

View attachment 3608706

My OEM rear belts are in good shape but my fronts are going to need replacing within the next couple years. Thanks for reminding me where they come from

 

[dbbowen]

Sorry for off topic but answering question........I went to seatbelt planet and bought their front and rears that retract. Also found the unicorn OEM trim piece made in the 89/90 FJ62 for retractable seat belts.

View attachment 3608706

I was able to get all of the rear retracting seat belt and trim pieces from a fj62 from Brooke Carr in Tennessee. My entire setup is from the same 62

 

[dbbowen]

I feel like this thread has been a debbie downer lately so ive got some drive reports for the full front and rear coil springs.

Yesterday i feel like is the first day i was just driving my truck along and not thinking in the back of my mind and listening to a hawk for noises or weird stuff with the swap. I wrapped a blanket over my trans shifter and drowned out the tcase whine and just drove the truck and it is absolutely dialed now as far as 2wd is concerned.

I get some driveline vibration still at 85mph which sucks but i still need to work that out some.


Steering - dialed. Im at about 5 or so degrees of caster. Steering stabilizer is installed. Not going to lie. I drove the truck for 2 weeks without the stabilizer on and once i installed it, i cant really tell any difference at all. Steering was tight before and after the stabilizer was installed. With the 5* caster the return to center is super good. No noises no clunks nothing. Just feels like normal steering. There is less dead slop in the steering now and it feels overall way tighter compared to the leafs and 60 steering

Suspension - The suspension doesnt squeak anymore, and the drive is just great. The main difference between the leafs and these coils is the initial movement of the suspension. That first few seconds when you hit a bump is so much softer than the leafs. You also dont have your leaf bushings moving when you steer or turn so the vehicle is way more predictable in how it handles.

The Dobinsons MRR shocks are pretty nice. I was expecting something a little different, but for what you get they are great. The Compression circuits are tied to each other much more than the MTB shocks i am used to.... So a change in high speed compression is also a change in low speed. On mtb shocks this is still true but they are less codependent on each other. Especially coil shocks like Fox DHX2 and the Push elevensix. The push elevensix actually has each circuit completely independent of each other and is a dream to set up

Every time you adjust high speed, youve kinda got to adjust low speed as well. Im kind of at a spot right now where im teetering on comfort vs body roll. If i open the high speed up any more the truck literally lifts up when i start at a red light and sways with the steering. So ive got the high speed set a little more firm than im used to with the bikes. A bit before it gets too sway-ey in normal driving. The low speed I have set pretty firm to combat the sway and body rise and tilt with acceleration and braking. The shocks are weird, the low speed changes less for those two things than the high speed, but they are low shaft speed events. Every shock and even the dobinsons manual says low speed compression controls body roll and vehicle lift on acceleration, but these shocks do not have enough low speed compression in them to do that. Even fully closed... So you have to run more high speed than youd want to increase the amount of low speed since they are tied together. Im still trying to get the shock valving figured out. On the bikes i normally set the high speed pretty firm for support on big hits and the low speed pretty open for small bump compliance and rebound as fast as it will go... but that approach isnt the best with these shocks. im getting there though. Ive got to run the rebound way slower than i was originally thinking.

I can feel my rear end slightly wanting to wander under WOT and sometimes turning into parking lots, I need to raise my rear panhard mount on the back axle to flatten it out some. Ive fixed this same issue on a lot of 5th gen 4runners. Easy fix.

Brakes - Still not used to how good they are. I didnt do anythign special for the brakes. just oem stuff. They are absurdly good.


Overall Still super super happy i did this swap. Ironing out the small stuff is annoying but you just got to chip away at it. The rear full float hubs sticking out of the rear wheels looks awesome too haha





Still left to do

- Find forklift and flex truck to measure bump stops to keep tires out of the fenders.
- Cut a half inch off of the metal tech upper control arms (theyre too long) and move the entire rear axle forward 3/8-1/2 inch. Ive got the metaltech uppers completely adjusted in and have been adjusting pinion angle with the lowers.
- weld a bracket to the frame for my home made front sway bar quick disconnects.
- Fix front driveshaft angle... which means also re adjusting my rear driveshaft angle.
- ditch twin stick tcase shifter setup and go back to the stock toyota double rubber boot for better sound muffling


After lifting the front of my truck to level it out, My front tcase output angle changed a lot. Currently my front pinion angle is pointed -1.3* up (pointing at the tcase). This is mostly from the caster plates. My truck was origionally 1-2 inches too low in the front so the tcase was pointed way down and matched the pinion angle really well. Lifting the front of the truck brought the tcase output up, and also when i recentered my transmission and tcase i had to drop it down 3/16 or so with the temporary crossmember brackets. These two things made my front tcase output point up 4.8 degrees ... so the angles are pointing in opposite directions. They are also 4.something* out from each other. This makes the front drive shaft sound like its going to explode when you are driving in 4 high over 25 mph


Ive got to cut off my current trans mount, and mount the trans/tcase about a half inch higher in the back to try and get the front pinion angles good. If i can get the front tcase output flange to be 2* or so i think it will be within the 3* of operating angle needed for the single ujoints. That also means ill need to readjust the rear pinion angle to match the rear output of the tcase, but i have adjustable arms for that. Ive been needing to redo my trans crossmember anyways because it looks like s*** compared to the ones i built for other people so this is kinda a need to do thing.

Unfortunately i dont think i can run a double cardon front driveshaft up front due to the tight spacing on the 4l60e trans pan.