6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain

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Front engine mount brackets installed successfully

The 2F's front engine mount brackets worked. The 2F motor mounts worked.

During installation, leave the motor mounts very loosely attached to the frame. The studs need to be loose to get things to fit.

engine-bracket-installed-lf.webp


engine-bracket-installed-rf.webp
 
LAMBCRUSHER, when you put it that way, spacers does sound like a lot less work. Poser said as much in another thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1201703&postcount=18

Tapping a 3rd hole sounds wise. Did you go for a 3rd 10mm x 1.25 (as the existing two holes are) or maybe get all three up the F's 12mm x 1.75 bolts? That might be overkill though as I'll be fabricating something to attach the split transfer case's crossmember to the frame rails.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8786470&postcount=12
 
Bigsal, Nice looking set up you got there.

What did you do the the frame rails to get that crossmember attached? I don't have a full power welder here to weld up scab plates or such so I'm thinking of drilling the frame and bolting on the cross member's bracket. The one's I have are similar to what you have in your picture.
 
Rear engine mount brackets work

Front of 2F motor now has 2F's front brackets and 2F's motor mounts. Rear of engine now has FJ55 F's engine mounting brackets and the original motor mounts.

I had to cut of the exhaust pipe up to get it out of the way for now.

Note that currently there's only two smaller than stock bolts holding the brackets to the flywheel housing. Details of those bolts here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8786470&postcount=12

rear-engine-mount-bracket-lr-installed.webp


rear-engine-mount-bracket-lrr-installed.webp
 
Distributor options

For distributor there are two available here, and probably a third on the other donor FJ60 available, 10 miles away from me. Pictured here are the F's (solo) and the 2F's with oil cooler and oil filter in the picture.

On the F I installed a vacuum advance distributor from sor.com only a very few thousand miles ago. It looks like 022-01A on http://www.sor.com/cat022.sor?ARP=1 in that it has the knob for setting how much advance but I think I got the aftermarket one (too many years ago to recall precisely).

I'd like to keep that new-ish vacuum advance distributor that's on the F but I haven't dug into the details if that will work on the 2F engine. If the ones I have are not going to cut it then, yeah, Trollhole's offering seems like the way to go.

f-dizzy.webp


2f-dizzy.webp
 
Nice work! We welded those cross member ends to the frame and then through bolted them afterwards... just for good measure. It works great. I like that I can unbolt the center, leave the center portion attached to the tranny and drop out the entire lot. All you have to do is back out the tranny a wee bit. Pretty much what you have to do anyway to clear the input shaft.

I had the same issue with my headers on the F motor. Makes for a funky little bend in the exhaust. Was really fun (and hot) driving it to the muffler shop when I put on those headers. Straight pipes... yeah!!

You should consider some dynamat or cruiser crap or whatever they call the product for some sound and heat dampening on that tranny cover. It helps a ton!

Sometimes I wish I was a mechanic rather than a forester.... I love that feeling of problem solving a mechanical issue. Although right now I have to drop my fuel tank and clean it out... Not looking forward to this one.

cheers!
 
Stock air cleaner housing hits hood

LAMBCRUSHER, you're right again. The stock 2F air filter housing hits the hood. But swapping the housing and the airhorn adaptor on top of the Webber out worked. Now there's just a rectilinear Weber filter element #99400-292 on top of the carb. That doesn't hit the hood.

Here's the airhorn adaptor I think:
http://man-a-fre.com/pa/webercarburetorkits.htm

I marked the air cleaner housing with a "grease pen" (Sharpie Mean Streak actually which is all the white markings in my pictures). Then I closed the hood. The white mark in this picture is where it hits. After things settle out, maybe chop that bit out as I'd like to have the stock air filter housing.

hood-hit-by-aircleaner.webp
 
Bigsal, dynamat (or some such) is now on the list.

I'm leaning towards just drilling through the frame and mounting the T/C support crossmember with 4 bolts on each frame rail which looks like what Toyota did on the FJ60 (I'll take a look at the donor's next time I visit it).

I'll dig around the archives when I get to that part of the project. I think I remember something about potential frame cracks but also about that possibly being overly cautious. I would think that keeping the rear engine mounting brackets on the flywheel housing would reduce greatly any stress where the T/C support crossmember meets the frame.
 
threadchaser said:
LAMBCRUSHER, when you put it that way, spacers does sound like a lot less work. Poser said as much in another thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1201703&postcount=18

Tapping a 3rd hole sounds wise. Did you go for a 3rd 10mm x 1.25 (as the existing two holes are) or maybe get all three up the F's 12mm x 1.75 bolts? That might be overkill though as I'll be fabricating something to attach the split transfer case's crossmember to the frame rails.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8786470&postcount=12
Click to expand...


I used the 12s on all six bellhousing mount bolts. if you did the early fj60 trans mount now, I'd say skip it and use the 2 12mms on each side and the trans mount out back...early fj60 mount is easy enough to mod into a 55...some angle welded inside and outside of the frame with holes drilled in them got a 62 series cross member under mine, just gotta finish with the bushing. at least it's in there to catch the trans, if it has too:hillbilly:. the exhaust will make your feet warm= ask how I know:doh: BUT, some heat shielding or heat barrier under the mats/floor coverings will stop that. I did smell rustoleum for the first 3 or 4 months till it baked in, so next time, I'd recommend using an under cab heat shield/I am running dual exhaust now, you wanna talk about no room...sheesh, you only gotta find room for one:flipoff2: a nice saddle bend around that motormount and then follow the bottom of the frame all the way back to just aft of the axle, then jog down between the frame and spring, and spring and tire, and then follow the outside of the frame, and offset out under the bumper. I used 60 series mounting bushings and steel rod bent to fit the bushings welded to the pipes...
 
threadchaser said:
Bigsal, dynamat (or some such) is now on the list.

I'm leaning towards just drilling through the frame and mounting the T/C support crossmember with 4 bolts on each frame rail which looks like what Toyota did on the FJ60 (I'll take a look at the donor's next time I visit it).

I'll dig around the archives when I get to that part of the project. I think I remember something about potential frame cracks but also about that possibly being overly cautious. I would think that keeping the rear engine mounting brackets on the flywheel housing would reduce greatly any stress where the T/C support crossmember meets the frame.
Click to expand...

get the thing road worthy, and take the rig and the crossmember brackets to a reputable welder, there must be someone not too far away who does this, check craigslist or whatever, maybe a mobil welder for an hour for a hundred or so, I have not yet found need to drill large holes thru my frame, and hope I dont have to. when it comes time to do the power steering, I will, but those holes will also be sleeved and welded on both sides...others may say it doesn't matter, and some would agree for some scientific reasons...for me however, it's just cause I'm a loon that way:meh: I plan to use my crossmember as a take off point for the skidplate, so I wanted it to be a solid design, and that meant that any bolts used needed to be in the vertical plain so bolt sheer wouldn't cause any future problems, frame weakening was also a consideration, but to a lesser degree. I'd get them puppies burnt on and be done with it.
 
threadchaser said:
LAMBCRUSHER, you're right again. The stock 2F air filter housing hits the hood. But swapping the housing and the airhorn adaptor on top of the Webber out worked. Now there's just a rectilinear Weber filter element #99400-292 on top of the carb. That doesn't hit the hood.

Here's the airhorn adaptor I think:
http://man-a-fre.com/pa/webercarburetorkits.htm

I marked the air cleaner housing with a "grease pen" (Sharpie Mean Streak actually which is all the white markings in my pictures). Then I closed the hood. The white mark in this picture is where it hits. After things settle out, maybe chop that bit out as I'd like to have the stock air filter housing.
Click to expand...

just cut a big oval hole out of the hood and paint the air cleaner cover cygnus white;) you=ll want to runt the aisin carb sooner or later. (trollhole fj60is the same fit and finish, IIRC)

ps, either dizzys should work, but the big cap is a nice dizzy to run IMO, and the vac advance is perfect for a nice box under the bench seat with the rest of the spares( or for use in you next rig...it's a great dizzy too, but it's got points in it right? right?) go thru the desmog threads in the 60 forum and then go thru the engine bay to make sure everything is as it should be

remember, there are 2 different water pumps that will work, but only one that doesn't require getting a cooler-less oil filter adapter. If you don't want to ditch the cooler(your call- I'm stll on the fence on that variable), you need the pump for a 76-78? with cooler, without clutch. you'll need the correct 6 blade plastic fan, and I forgot to mention that you'll need the corrosponding pulley to boot. that one took a while to work out. at first, I ditched the plastic fan and clutch, and ran electric-waste of time and money. it did gain me some time to track down the variants of the water pump and figure out what combo would work. If memory serves, it was the most expensive variant for the f series water pumps- I found the one I needed in the mud classifieds within a week of learning which part I needed and got it for like 50 buck or so...SO,...
 
Distributor internals

LAMBCRURSHER, that's sounds like good advice. F's vac. advance dizzy does indeed have points. So, I like the idea of keeping it and it's coils as an emergency spare.

Things look OK inside the 2F's dizzy. Bit of condensation corrosion but that's just soft white powder. The diaphragm holds 20 pounds of vacuum and moves the pickup freely. A bit of water squirted out of the diaphragm, explaining the corrosion.

I'll need to go get the ignitor from the donor 9/83 FJ60 donor.

dizzy-vac-advance-points.webp


2f-dizzy-internals.webp
 
Water pump and related issues`

I read Poser and others advising to proactively replace the water pump while involved with an engine swap.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/728567-proactively-replace-water-pump.html

The 2F I have here has the oil cooler which looks OK from the outside so might as well keep it,
altough it does seem that very reasonable minds differ on this:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/761583-76-2f-oil-cooler.html

SOR has 054-024C-55 Water Pump - Fits 1/76-7/80 FJ55 use with oil cooler - Same manufacturer as OEM on page http://www.sor.com/cat054.sor
I'm guessing that's what I need.

I'll keep the F water pump as a backup and I'll turn the 2F into a block flushing tool:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/589286-little-help-flushing-coolant-engine-block-2.html

I've got some new FJ55 raditor hoses back at my main base so I'm going to risk a 500 mile trip with the old hoses. Hoses on the 2F's oil cooler look good.

LAMBCRUSHER and others have advised upgrading from the old school metal 4 blade fans to the more modern 6 blade plastic ones.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/278560-f135-4-blade-fan-upgrade.html

So, new fan, waterpump and gasket just ordered, along with new distributor OEM rotor and cap. I'll size them up when they arive next week to see if I need a fan spacer, which SOR does not have at this time.
 
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