Builds 550hp 2JZ 1978 RN28L Build

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I couldn't handle it, Ford 9in ordered!

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Quick Performance website is pretty dope, and lots of good reviews on them so I gave them a call and a guy talked me through all the options. He said they're at a 4 week lead time for the housings, so I said **** it let's do it and get it going!

I think I'm going to pull the 8" diff I just installed, thinking about it I wonder if a bearing is ****ed up and that's why it feels so awful. I can pull the ring gear out and see if the pinion and ring gear bearings are all spinning nicely. If they are then I'll put it back in and send it, but I'd hate to put $100 of gear oil in just for a bearing to be messed up and it s***s itself instantly. If I can get the 8" to work combining parts from the old diff, great. If not then oh well and I'll start cutting the leaf spring brackets off the frame! At least the final solution is now on order! In a few weeks I'll order link parts and find some coilovers.
 
A narrowed S550 IRS would have been sweet.
As dumb as it seems, I'm pretty committed to the solid axle life. Lots of people have said I should make it IRS, but I feel like that just takes away from the core configuration of it. Everything may get swapped out, but at the end of the day it still has truck bones. Even if the bed doesn't exist, there is obviously a "bed". It still has the Toyota cab and hood, and it has the original suspension layout of a solid axle out back like all (most) trucks.

It's kind of the Ship of Theseus paradox for me. My friend a week or two ago had asked if I would want to swap the frame when I convert it to AWD, and it was the same thing. I don't want it to seem like a Toyota body plopped onto something else, I want it to have clear roots back to being a little Toyota pickup, and for me that's the frame, body, and (at least broadly) the suspension layout of IFS and rear solid axle.

Maybe my philosophy will change down the line, and don't get me wrong IRS would be wickedly cool, but for now it'll stay a basic little truck with too much power thrown at it! :grinpimp:
 
Talked to dude I got the 8" from, he said it used to spin fine so was probably just gritty or had rusty bearings. Ran out to the shop before dinner, pulled it back out and tore it down. Turns out the pinion nut was just so tight it squished the bearings and that's why it was so hard to spin. With the yoke off it turns like a champ! And this was a good move since there's no pinion seal on it, so if I filled the axle it would've just leaked everywhere. If I had swapped the adapter flange that I didn't have time to do yesterday, I probably could've solved all of this since I would've seen there was no seal, and probably would've found out the pinion bearings being overloaded was the issue. Oh well. I'll get a seal, slap it in, throw the adapter flange on it, tighten it on the bench to make sure it can still spin nice, and then slap it back in the truck and we're good to go. I'd call that a successful 15 minutes today!

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I bookmarked Quick Performance so thanks for posting it. Just in case my 8" Toyota diffs can't take the 37" stickies. They held up to the 3.4 5VZ and 35's. Hopefully they can still hang in there.
 
Are you going to get another crush sleeve or just wing it for the pinion bearing preload?
Wing it, get it one ugga in on the impact and send it. That's what I did on the last diff and obviously the gears weren't the weak point!

37 stickies will probably be a bit much for the 8" but it'll hold for awhile. Buddy i go wheeling with has 37 stickies on his buggy and gone through a diff so far but otherwise been fine. Though hes somewhat cautious with it, a lot more cautious than I am on sticky 40s with a Dana 60 hahaha
 
Some of those had spacers in them. Doesn't seem likely given the grunchiness, but lifting the front pinion bearing out would say for sure.
 
Man I've also been looking at narrowed Ford 9" but the only 35 spline full float options in 6x5.5 I've found are $500 currie unit bearings
 
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Man I've also been looking at narrowed Ford 9" but the only 35 spline full float options in 6x5.5 I've found are $500 currie unit bearings
Off-road stuff is so expensive compared to the street stuff I'm finding. Like a run of the mill ruff stuff 9" housing is $1200 and not even cut to length. Same price from Quick Performance and you get a housing with bearing cups welded on at the lengths you want and custom shafts cut down of any spline size and bearings too. My last build was a "budget" Ultra4 style buggy, and the cost difference is just insane in every aspect. Budget stuff for off-road is more expensive than nice street parts!
 
First trip south of the border with LocoMocos in something like '03 for the B1K one of the crew was in a Full Size Bronco that just had a Speedway Engineering 9" floater put under it. He split the housing about 20 miles south of San Juanico (AKA Scorpion Bay). So there we were sitting on the side of the road while a couple of trucks loaned their batteries to the Redi-Welder spool gun. We were there for a quite a while. Long enough that some of the crew flagged down the Tecate delivery truck and bought a flat of beer off of it. Dang, but those were good times!!!
The FSB owner learned the hard way that dedicated off-road stuff is built heavier/stronger to take the abuse., and that's why it costs more.

That said, a guy that I highly value his advise buys and suggests Quick Perf. for any 9" stuff.
 
Got the diff together and back in the truck and she spins real nice now! I did not look at the crush sleeve or if there was a spacer or anything, I swapped the flange on I needed and just tightened the nut until it felt good and then staked it!

The coolant tube had welds cracked, so pulled that and welded those up. It also got beat on real good in a couple spots, they didn't appear to be cracked but I filled in the gouges with weld to be safe.

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The exhaust got absolutely destroyed.

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Ordered some new 3.5" tubing but it has not shown up yet. I dropped the driveshaft off and got it back yesterday, threw some paint on it and installed it. Filled the truck with coolant, and today went for a test drive and everything seems to be working! Oh wait the radiator fan isn't turning on, the relay isn't getting signal from the ECM.

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Turns out that gouge in the frame did some damage even though it looked like it missed the wire bundle. Only the fan signal wire was fully broken, and good thing it was otherwise I would've never looked! Fan and fuel pump signal wires were broken, as well as whatever the bigger brown wire is (I should probably know what that is but I have no memory of it). The fuel sender wire (black) was untouched though!

After fixing those, time to hit the car wash and get all the gear oil off the back of the truck! In the process of washing it though, I found the source of a new rattle!

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The driveshaft did a lot more damage than initially thought. The yoke off the pinion somehow slammed all the way forward and dented the bedside and even the body! Dented bedside/body, dented frame, wiring cut, coolant line broken, exhaust crushed and a hole in it, driveshaft broken in half, and lastly the pinion sheared off. A lot of damage! Could be worse, luckily I'm not super concerned about cosmetics, and the rest of the fixes are straight forward. I'm thankful that the radiator somehow lived, and the back glass.

Tomorrow is more tuning, primarily around full throttle. I'm hopeful the diff can handle it if I'm "gentle", but it's also the first time on the big sticky tires. Based on how much damage occurred, I really didn't want to do all of this over again in the event it snaps the pinion again even being gentle now that it can (hopefully) hook up. I was really on the fence about this, but pulled the trigger on the most janky fabrication this truck has ever seen. Introducing the differential driveshaft loop!

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I cut some parts on the plasma table, quick wire wheel on some spots, and cranked the MIG and sent it. Then added some absolutely awful gussets. Obviously this is temporary, new axle will not have (need) s*** like this. But until that shows up in a month, this abomination will hopefully keep the driveshaft at least vaguely lined up with the diff if the pinion breaks off again. It's not even meant to stop it flailing around, but just to keep spinning in a zone where it won't start flinging all over the place again.

With all of that said though, the truck is back and driving (albeit extremely loud since the exhaust terminates a few inches before the back of the cab, but it's quiet enough I can still go tuning and drive it, and the new exhaust piece shows up tomorrow). I haven't really gotten on it, well let me rephrase, it has seen 18psi but hasn't experienced full throttle yet! Looking at datalogs is wild, on the way home from the car wash it was at 18psi of boost and was below 50% throttle still. I feel like it's revved out and it's not even at 6000rpm yet. The thing pulls so hard and is so quick that you don't even have to get high in the revs or really on the throttle for it to absolutely haul ass. Other fun facts, I'm running 650cc injectors at 43psi and I think have seen 80% duty cycle once. I was worried the injectors would be too small (and I can absolutely crank the pressure with my fuel system) but they are actually right on the money currently and hardly working for the most part. The intake air temps are also surprisingly low, if it really heats up they'll climb 30deg and that's at 18-20psi through a few shifts. I feel like that's perfectly acceptable since the IATs will edge over 100F at full boost, and that's with the derpy intercooler I have which will eventually get swapped out for a much wider custom one.

Tomorrow morning hopefully wraps up the tuning, and then probably get the exhaust fixed after that, and hopefully that (mostly) ends the saga of the powertrain upgrades!

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Did you also put a loop up front? The 'pole vault' caused by breaking that U-J at speed isn't pretty.

With the 9's bolt-in pinion carrier you'll have a nice place to bolt on a new version is so inclined. Most of the time what I see done for that instead is a 4X limit strap bent in a 'U' and hanging from something convenient on the chassis.
 
Did you also put a loop up front? The 'pole vault' caused by breaking that U-J at speed isn't pretty.

With the 9's bolt-in pinion carrier you'll have a nice place to bolt on a new version is so inclined. Most of the time what I see done for that instead is a 4X limit strap bent in a 'U' and hanging from something convenient on the chassis.
That's what I was gonna do up front but all the limit straps I have on hand are the wrong length. Was debating throwing one of the oversized ones on for today.
 
Saturday morning before more tuning I threw a limit strap under the driveshaft, which you can barely see in the below photo. I had been on the fence about doing it since I think the transmission side will be fine, but the wife really wanted it and it is a good idea. There's not a good place to put it, plus I didn't have any straps that were the right length, so I ended up psuedo-ghettoing it and just welding some studs to the frame and then taking two straps and twisting them (an offroading trick to shorten them) and that got them tight enough to not drag on the ground. I'd like a better setup to keep the shaft from destroying everything, but ultimately this is to prevent it pogo sticking the back of the truck and without adding another crossmember there's not really a sexier way to do this, so I'll keep it as is I think (and probably buy a correct length limit strap).

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At 9am we did a bit more tuning, but the truck was so insanely loud with the exhaust dumping under the cab we couldn't do much since dude couldn't even hear me on the phone. Of course, the exhaust tubing showed up a couple hours later so I was able to make the truck not sound so loud (at least in the cab).

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I drove around some more playing with the truck, and she is properly nasty! The truck seems to spin a bit in 2nd gear, but it's very controllable with the new tires. Before the truck would kind of torque steer all over the place, and now it shoots really straight when you get on it. Tires made so much difference and made it so much easier to drive which I wasn't expecting. The steering feels the same too, I was worried the increased scrub radius would make it a bitch to turn but didn't seem to really affect it.

The tuning needs a bit more work. At this point I'm thinking I'll wrap up the rest of the tuning myself, I got everything I wanted out of the tuner (mainly a good timing map). The last two things the tune really needs at this stage is there's still some boost control issues. Earlier in the week I had set it up where there was just a fixed boost solenoid duty cycle based on MAP and RPM, and the tuner changed that to a boost target and rpm based table, which seemed to be working fine at WOT but I've had a couple times where in like 4th gear I'll get on it and by 4300rpm the boost cut at 23psi is triggered, so how the turbo is building boost at high load and lower rpm is a lot different than at WOT, so that needs to get sorted. And then there's also a slight hiccup sometimes at low rpm, like leaving from a stop where if the rpm drops below idle for a second it seems to have a half second hiccup until it recovers. Not sure what the deal is there, I'm thinking it might be related to the low timing at idle and the truck using timing to control the idle rpm. Besides that though, the truck runs and drives awesome.

There was a little car meet in town on Saturday so I swung by since the weather was actually nice for once and the wife was doing things. There ended up being another 1978 model there too, though mostly stock!

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His was a RN23L, I figured the L stood for long bed but his was a short bed and the same year, so the difference between the RN23L and RN28L is at a minimum the bed length. Not sure how the numbering works, I figured the lower the number the older the truck but maybe the second digit is the overall length or something? It was cool to finally meet the guy and look up close to the sister truck I've seen in town.

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On the way home, of course I end up being the only vehicle on the road, I have no working speedometer and a cop is behind me. Who knows how slow I'm going since I have no traffic to base speed off of. Was probably doing 10mph under the speed limit. Dude eventually goes to pull around me, and then instantly jumps back over behind me and lights on. Awesome.

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Turns out the right side running light at that instant in time decided the bulb was no more. Dude was following me, decided I was fine, and then the running light blows right as he goes to pull around me and that was too much so he pulls me over. Of course, no bumpers, the "tires stick out too far without mud flaps", and no running light. And I'm sitting there in a mini truck with a rear cage, fuel cell, drag radials, side dump exhaust, with a laptop on in my passenger seat and I'm wearing pajamas hahaha

Dude takes my stuff, comes back and thankfully gives me a warning and not a fix it ticket, and then he leans over and goes "so does it actually have a 2JZ?"
:rofl:
I'm like damn straight, want to see it?
:D
And end up giving him a full tour of the truck. I think he's the first person to ever read the license plate "2JZ HLX" and actually know what it meant. We talked for a bit and I told him I have all the bumpers and stuff and still getting it dialed in since it has a fresh engine in it. He eventually had to bail since he had a ride along with him hahaha. Overall a nice wholesome moment, went from playing with the truck all day, to going wow the day ends getting a ticket, to ending up with the cop being a car guy and appreciating the truck build and letting me off.


To wrap everything up, I've been wanting to weigh the truck and yesterday got around to it. Threw some chains and my crane scale on the lift and pulled it up.

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Because the front is lifting off the frame and not the axle, need to do a bit of statics and the overall weight comes in at 2545 lbs! 1046 lbs over the rear axle, and about 1500 lbs over the front axle.

Trying to find a weight for a stock truck, on a mini truck forum one person says a stock truck is around 2500 lbs, another guy actually coincidentally says the truck weighs 2545 lbs too. I thought it'd weigh quite a bit less to be honest, but at least I can say it weighs the same as a stock truck. And 2500 lbs with 500hp or so is still no slouch!
 
Maybe this helps, maybe this is a bigger PITA, but options anyway. I use it to get corner weights. If I need it really accurate I have a helper pull on a piece of paper put under the tire and make my reading when the paper slips out from under. If close is good enough I just eyeball it. Leverage ratio is 10:1, so 100 ft-lbs on the wrench is 1000 lbs on the tire.

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Maybe this helps, maybe this is a bigger PITA, but options anyway. I use it to get corner weights. If I need it really accurate I have a helper pull on a piece of paper put under the tire and make my reading when the paper slips out from under. If close is good enough I just eyeball it. Leverage ratio is 10:1, so 100 ft-lbs on the wrench is 1000 lbs on the tire.

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Wow that's a really smart way to do it, never seen that before but great idea! Lot less setup too than wrapping chains around everything.
 
Used to get corner weights for road racers with that tool before corner scales were a thing. At one time could buy the tool from places like Pegasus Racing. Now I can't find them sold anywhere.
Best accuracy happens when the beam is level with the tire ever so slightly off the ground. Can see the various holes that have been drilled in the stand to achieve that.

I have pondered putting one of those valve spring testers that are used in a vise or a press in the stand to make it easier to take a reading. Just don't use it enough to go to the trouble.

A model that I made of it years ago so that someone else could copy it:

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