5.7 Vortec V-8 Swap / 86 FJ60

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I don't know how close the other guy is... I think the parts may shoot me in the @$$. I can make a couple of things work but we need the "fittings" on the fuel system, and I've not yet ordered the hard line for my fuel setup. I suspect we will order the fuel line and any other required fittings no later than Friday or Saturday. I have to get with my friend who is helping me on this, since he is the "guy" on some of the details. I want to be safe on the fuel setup, so we are not going to shortcut any of that.

If I had all the parts I could be running next weekend. I plan on sending the PCM out for programming either tomorrow or Tuesday as soon as I find out more details. I hope to get the exhaust done tomorrow.
 
Sounds like you are in the lead. You don't have to battle the Ca. emissions laws. Can't wait to see your finished photo's and the ear to ear grin when you hit the skinny pedal!
 
Oh yea.... it is a wonderful thing not having to deal with the emissions police. But I expect its only a matter of time before many areas really crack down on that. Today I installed new hard line heater hoses that feed the read heater core, along with two new hoses. I also installed about 1/2 of the heater hose on the top side of engine. We are having to be a little creative with the heater hoses. I've got to tie in the rear heater core fittings with the front heater core and run a hose up to the fitting on the engine. I plumbed the front heater hose fitting that comes off the voretec to connect back to the top fitting on the heater control valve. Used some 5/8 heater hose with a 90' degree molded end on one side and a 90' degree plastic heater hose fitting on the other. Bought a 90' degree heater hose thats 3/4 in size to run from the intake back to the rear heater core fittings. I'll get that wrapped up this weekend I expect. Sent PCM off for programming this afternoon, removed yukon O2 sensors to use on the exhaust. Exhaust guy did not want to work on the truck today... maybe I can get it done on Friday. Installed SPAL fan controller partially (just for engine start and troubleshooting), will do a better job later.

Its going to be a little project of its own, in cleaning up the wiring and making things look good. Right now the intent is to get it running & mobile.

Anyone know if it makes a difference on which side one provides hot coolant to the rear heater core. I'm having to make some hoses work and it look like I can do a "cleaner" job if I connect the lower heater core hose at the front heater core to the engine side pipe of the rear heater core. The OEM setup had the front heater core feeding the outside pipe of the rear heater core. Does this make any difference at all, if anyone knows. My guess is no, but someone may know better.
 
updates:

... I'm waiting on hoes and fittings from Summit to finish the engine oil cooler, and to plumb the fuel lines. .

Wow, summit sells everything now.

Sorry, couldn't pass it up.
 
You had a typo and I thought it was funny.
 
ok,

Yea... I see the typo now. I'm famous for that kind of stuff. :)

If you've read any of my stuff on here you'll see I'm a man of habit.

All in good fun....

I do appreciate this forum and the guys who help each other out!
 
Elbert...nice going on the swap.
post pics of the fuel set up if you can.

Thanks,
 
Manuchao,

As soon as we get to that I will. That's been on our "to-do" list for a while. I have an external fuel pump we plan to use. We are going to run hose from the tank over to the frame, then the fuel pump, then a GM fuel filter, and then hard line up to the drivers side of the engine, somewhere in parallel with the rear of the engine, then run hose over to the rear of the engine where on the 5.7 vortec the fuel rail exits at the rear of the engine on top near the distributor. Two adapters to get from the fuel rail to a -6 hose, then two -6 90 degree fittings to get over to the frame rail and two -6 fittings to receive at the rail and then over to hard line and back. One supply and one return. Similar setup on the rear. My friend who is helping me is the guy with the experience on the hard line. Not clear to me what fittings we'll use to join the hard line sections. Also I wonder what others have done with the OEM hardline(at the firewall, on the driver side, which I think use to connect to the charcoal cannister) that appears to be a vent, which I believe runs to the fuel tank. Does this need to stay vented or capped off when running fuel injection?

I'll post details on what we do and pics as soon as I can.
 
before I have to crawl under the truck and look, anyone know what size the hose is that connects to the gas tank? I'm trying to round up parts to plumb the fuel setup from the tank forward to the engine.

Also would be enterested in what people with external electric fuel pumps are running as a fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump. I'm going to run one of the FM fuel filters like comes on a 98 yukon between the pump and engine. But I'm concerned about potentially having some type of filter between the tank and pump, that's not to restrictive, but does offer some utility. Would be great if it worked with AN fittings/ push lock hose, or something other than a barbed type fitting and push on hose.
 
I used a filter from Auto zone that was threaded, I rethreaded my an fitting to match it. This was a field repair but it worked. I am using 5/16 and 3/8 hard line adapters from earls on the existing lines.
 
What pump are you using?
 
More Info

Ok here is the current update 26 Jan 08:

First thing I want to mention is I made a little screwup today. Previoulsy I had installed the mechanical temp gauge in the drivers side cylinder head. Well today when we were adding coolant it became apparent I screwed up... I did not use the correct adapter and I made a little mess. ITs hard to see in the pic but you'll notice some liquid on the floor.... Yes I forogt the right adapter for the temp prope and we had leakage... fixed that and so far we're ok on coolant leaks.
Stuff I've completed as of this date. Removed the old hard fuel line /tube, replaced the old hear hose hard line to the reaer heater core + heater hoses, intalled heater hoses to fully plumb the engine (used some molded 90 degree hoses both 3/4 and 5/8), installed new knock sensor, wired starter up half way, installed air cleaner assembly, added 80W-90 to trans and trasnfer case, added engine oil, partially filled with coolant & water, installed SPAL fan controller (partially), installed engine wiring harness, installed PCM, installed throttle cable. installed most of the front "end" componets on the radiator support execpt the grill because we are waiting on parts to plumb oil cooler, installed PS/ cooler, and 1/2 of the hoses, installed plug wires, plugs, new dist cap and rotor button.

Stuff we still need to do:
Install fuel pump and tubing, adapt the vaccum line for the master cylinder, install the return P/s hose, install soft fuel hose and fittings, get exhast installed. (exhaust lined up for this Monday), finish topping off coolant, re-insall hood and adjust, install oil pressure gauge, add p/s fluid. Finsh up some brackets for the relay and fuse panel that's part of the engine harness, program the fan controller and finish wiring it (one connection). And then....... see if this thing will start.

Stuff I've discovered:

installing the rubber boot at the gear shifter can be a pain in the @ss, apparenty I've had a fuel leak where the rubber hose connects to the fuel tank. The nice person who screwed with it last did not install the rubber hose at the tank correctly, clamps were positioned where they were really not functional. Came real close on the hood clearance and the air filter, found out I have plenty to learn about A/N fittings and unionns and flares, bought more stuff than I can use, figured out that adding fluid to the trans is eaiser with a heater hose from up top with two people, discovered why I hate the small radiator fill neck , recalled that its going to be fun again to bleed the air out of the coolant system, redisgned the heaters hose connections from top to bottom....all except one hose are tottaly different. Wiring right now is just roughed in.... I expect to clean some of that up, once we are running and I have plenty of time to address the small things.

On the downhill slide now. Waiting on fuel tubing to arrive, waiting on some additional fittings to arrive, waiting on -6 and -8 braided hose to arrive, waiting on tube bender to bend SS tube to arrive, found out I need to order some additional unions, I think we might be ready to run about mid month Feb, based upon parts arriving and our real work schedule getting in the way.
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2nd group of pics

Only took 4 pics this time. If anyone needs to see anything let me know and I can email you or take a picture of whatever you want to see detail on.
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I've noticed that my typing skills are not equal to my spelling screwups. Read between the lines and I'll translate for those who may get lost. :)
 
Where did you put the flux capacitor? Looking good making progress. Did you check to see if you had a local hose shop. It really sucks waiting for parts.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
What mounting bracket did you use for the computer = look likes you found something that works prefectly.

Peter
 
What mounting bracket did you use for the computer = look likes you found something that works prefectly.

Peter
The computer bracket is from a pickup that had a 5.7 vortec engine. I think the same bracket it used on the Yukon, Tahoe, & the GM pickups. ON the drivers side fenderwell. This bracket is part of a two-piece setup. THe other bracket mounts to the GM fenderwell, while this bracket mounts on top of the other and also attaches to the drivers side fender. We did not see a way to use the bottom part and just went with the top, as you can see in the pics. You just don't have too much room on the fender wells in comparison to a GM full size truck.I'll see if I can round up the GM part number, they are not too expensive. The original one I had,(I had removed from a donor vehicle in the junkyard) and noticed after the fact that one of the mounting tabs was broken. The part number was stamped on the bracket so I ordered one from gmpartsdirect.com.
 

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