4x4 hysteer draglink / pittman arm issue

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I have almost the same problem. Flipped front springs. Lower profile shackle reversal. Cut and turned from axle (forget, but lets say around 14 - 18 deg). I had to send the passenger arm back to luck to be bent more when I was running stock knuckles - he bent the new ones for the 6 shooters almost the same. Without bumpstops, I am hitting both the frame on compression - and the spring on droop. It's not bad and there's not been any carnage on that end. I have one of Mudrak's flat homebuilt pitman arms - pure beef - but it touches the drivers side spring on right turns when the driver's side is compressed.

Has been a royal pain in the arse - everything is just a hair away from being perfect.

Before all this I had a bad AGR box that didn't like to turn left. Had PSC rebuild it and am attributing these steering issues or severe sideways driving with screwing up the steering again.

Going to get the box/pump rebuilt - go with bumpstops to limit excessive uptravel - and maybe work the turning bump stops out a hair....

Understand your frustration.
 
A gentleman was nice enough to show me this picture to help what was a similar problem however I was talked out of doing so because of the frames flex somewhat evenly and I would be putting a rigid spot in the frame....... I am not speaking in favor or against this idea and hope the gentleman doesnt mind me sharing his photo. I plated my frame and bolted a scout box right there so ..... That surely added a rigid spot also however I chose not to based off of some solid advise. I didnt like the idea of cutting a chunk out of my frame however if I did I would have copied this guys idea! At minimum it spread it out nicely ....if you choose to.
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That's exactly like what I was thinking. I am still waiting for people to tell me this is a very bad idea. Thanks for the post 4x4SW
 
you can do something lie that you just have to make sure you make your frame as strong as it was before you cut it, ive seen way worse things.
 
you can see how close mine are and how i angled my sterring box
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That's exactly like what I was thinking. I am still waiting for people to tell me this is a very bad idea. Thanks for the post 4x4SW


I would think long and hard before I carved up my frame like that. The larger the box section the stronger it is, so having it really narrow down like that has to compromise strength a lot.

Plus, with a SR, there are much higher forces on the front of the frame where the fixed end of the spring is.

I'll try and get some pics, as I don't have any issues with stuff interfering.
 
or you could plate both sides of the frame.....

I also remembered that when I had cruiser axles and 4x4 labs stuff with flipped springs I also had to bend the front passenger arm to get the draglink high enough. I was 14* pinion wih +4-6* caster. We just did it with a press I believe but sending it back to Luke is probably a better idea.

I still think you culprit is where and how your box is mounted
 
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hey guys sorry for all the pics, but mtweller heres one that looks like yours before i had them bent
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Basic c-notch. nOT A huge deal but I would add a bridge above it for extra strength. It is going to be supporting 1/4th of all weight on th front end. Something like the pic but not so big. However much you cut out, add atleast that much above the frame to compensate. Steering box can be an issue, though.

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Picture it like the pic earlier, with the small notch and a small bridge above, maybe 2-3" tall. DO NOT do a full notch like in the pic.
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Some pics

I don't know if these will help, but here are some pics. I think I don't rub on the DS spring, because my axles are 60 series axles and the springs are outboarded about 1.5 inches per side.
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More

More pictures...

First, my garage helper, and some additional pictures of the steering mount and suspension.
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