4x4 hysteer draglink / pittman arm issue

[mtweller]

So I am SOA w/ flipped fronts. The front spring hangers are actually about 5/8" forward of flush w/ the frame horns due to Saginaw box clearance. Therefore, the front axle is way, way forward. This has created a situation where the draglink "lives" further forward in relation to the frame and the curve in the frame doesn't match up.

Originally, I used a flat pittman arm and the draglink was hitting the springpack on the pass side. So Luke bent the arm up a bit and fixed that, except in extreme articulation, the link still contacted the spring at full pass droop, w/ the wheel turned passenger side. Another issue was I wasn't able to turn very far driver side due to the tierod end and pitman arm contacting the spring pack.

So Luke made me a Pittman arm w/ the taper from the top to accommodate both issues. This raised the draglink, and allowed me to turn a wee bit further driver. However, now, when I compress the pass side, the draglink hits the framerail. This is because the axle is so far forward it no longer matches up with the curve in the frame. My question is, can I recess and reinforce the frame at that point? I am very wary of hacking on the frame, but I could really beef it up there. Couple of pics might help, but not great. I went back to the flat, bottom tapered arm in these pics.

Oh yeah, we know that ramp leaves a lot to be desired safety-wise, it was a last minute effort which is going to be reinforced for future use

Thanks for looking.

 

[mtweller]

Some pics to show where I was before Luke rebent the arm, that gives you an idea how far fwd the axle is in relation to the frame.

 

[mtweller]

A couple more...

 

[camcruiser13]

what about a pitman arm that put the drag above the arm uinstead of under?

 

[fyresq]

Using Lukes plate kit put my steering box a couple inches above where yours is on the frame and a little more level. What about moving the steering box up?

 

[BDSeff1fitty]

is your pitman arm bent at all? i had to send mine to luke to get bent

where did you get your ubolts at?

 

[mtweller]

what about a pitman arm that put the drag above the arm uinstead of under?

That's what the one I got for Luke did. However, that's when the draglink started hitting the frame during compression on the pass side. It limited compression a couple of inches from full stuff.

sing Lukes plate kit put my steering box a couple inches above where yours is on the frame and a little more level. What about moving the steering box up?

Dear God, I hope it doesn't come to that! Probably 20hrs of work to do that.

Pittman arm has about 1" of drop (the one that is tapered for a top-mount TRE). The other is flat.

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

I am going out on a wierd one here...... by some chance when you did your SOA did you turn your pumpkin up to reduce your driveline angle and then not do a cut and turn?? Maybe your castor is off which would roll the arm down into the springs?????

 

[lcwizard]

I hope Luke's getting paid for this!
Everyone needs to realize that there are limitations to using the stock frame.
Four Links, spring overs are not without limitations.
Backtrack with the axle placement to a position that works with the frame or
cut and rework the frame to accomodate your mods

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

Everyone needs to realize that there are limitations to using the stock frame.
Four Links, spring overs are not without limitations.
Backtrack with the axle placement to a position that works with the frame or
cut and rework the frame to accomodate your mods

These mods have been done a thousand times on Ih8mud
I dont know what but something is up here....... I think you are on to something either your castor is way off due to your SOA (you would know it would drive like crap) or you possibly accidently mounted your box to low.

I suppose I do agree with backtrack your mods.

 

[camcruiser13]

i was gonna say your castor is off were its making the front of the arms to low causing the links to hit?

i had to have my arms bent alot to stop hitting my leafs. you could always add limiting straps and bumpstops,

flex is over rated anyway

 

[pjohnson]

The axle being forward really just means you have to run bump stops to prevent contact at extreme compression. A compromise you have to make. I don't think your so far forward to be more than a minor contributor to your problem. I flipped my front springs and the mount is right at the front edge of the frame. So 5/8 less forward than yours and I only have contact at extreme compression. I run bumpstops to prevent contact.
The castor could also be contributing to the problem, but to be the only cause, it would not be driveable.


Phil

 

[mtweller]

It was C&T for +4* of caster. As far as Luke not being compensated, I bought the replacement pittman arm from him, and I have not even bothered him once since this did not correct the problem. That is why I am posting here, for ideas and to not to reinvent the wheel if someone has been there, done that.

Quick question, how much travel are most of you getting out of the front w/ SOA/flipped springs? I may just go with the bumpstop idea, but I really hate to limit the flex on this thing. The fwd position of the axle is fantastic for approach angle, so I will mod around that.

Thanks

 

[pbgbottle]

quick question i am going to be phoning luke myself soon . what pitman arm did he sell ya was it the flat one or a different one . i will be working on my high steer soon and it looks like i will need a flat pitman arm i got a curved one from him with a slight drop.. and maybe a 1/4 inch or so bend added to my arm aswell. very close to the leaf spring.

 

[BDSeff1fitty]

pbg, i got my steering from luke a few weeks ago. i had to send him my pitman arm to get bent. it bends slightly. i should have it mounted on the axle in the next week or so i am hoping if the guy doing my frame ever finishes.

 

[camcruiser13]

It was C&T for +4* of caster. As far as Luke not being compensated, I bought the replacement pittman arm from him, and I have not even bothered him once since this did not correct the problem. That is why I am posting here, for ideas and to not to reinvent the wheel if someone has been there, done that.

Quick question, how much travel are most of you getting out of the front w/ SOA/flipped springs? I may just go with the bumpstop idea, but I really hate to limit the flex on this thing. The fwd position of the axle is fantastic for approach angle, so I will mod around that.

Thanks

wny would anybody ask about luke beinf compensated, you bought his stuff and he stands behind it. whoever said that is a clown and probably doesnt own any of his stuff.

anyway, as far as flex i have flipped soa and 4x4 labs my uptravel is only a few inches, maybe 3"

try some shims first, that would be the easiest i think. let me know if you need pics etc..

and yes the approach angle is killer

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I have nearly this exact set-up.. SR, flipped springs, about 1 inch less forward than this one. Nothing hits.

I did use the 4x4 Labs PS plate, which mounts the box in a better position.

After the first install, I did have to have the forward facing steering arm on the passenger side bent up about 1 inch. With extreme articulation, the drag link gets to within 1/4 inch of the spring but does not touch. I did lower my bumpstops.

Here is a picture, excuse the dirt:

This problem should be solvable with a bit more upward bend in the steering arm. You may need to remount your steering box.

 

[mustardfj40]

Give Luke a call and send him the pictures, I am sure he will get it right for you. One of the nicest cruiser guys out there. I broke my truck at the Rubithon years ago and he generously fix it

I'm running his hysteer arm too and I have my bump stops dropped even without the front spring flipped.

 

[mtweller]

Hey CruiserDrew, I would love to see some more pics when you get a chance. Tell me about your Pittman arm.... is it flat, tre top or bottom mount? Also, do you have an issue w/ the Pittman arm hitting the d.s. spring pack when you turn left? Does the draglink come close to hitting the frame rail on p.s. compression?

Thanks man!

 

[mtweller]

Thanks for the info Camcruiser. W/ +4 caster, I would be reluctant to run shims. I am seriously considering running the pittman arm w/ the top mount tre, and notching/reinforcing the frame where it hits on p.s. compression.

Talk me out of it