4x4 Camper - Rear Axle Swap, FROR or D60? (1 Viewer)

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SRW one ton axles have WMS as high as 67", so a custom housing is not a requirement.

70-72" has to be a mis-calc, or not taking wheel specs into consideration when looking at track width.
 
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I would go with the D60/70. The Diamond housing would be cool, but it is more expensive and it won't be as HD. The 14BFF and AAM axles would meet the need too, but they use a larger ring gear and will hang down more in the center because of it. Yeah, I know they can be shaved, that's a real PITA for a not rock-crawler. Not to mention that shaving usually results in gear oil leaks.
Dually pick-up axles are usually wider than Cab & Chassis axles.

Companion flange type pinion flanges can be found so that toyota type drive-shafts can be used, though not likely with a Toyota pattern. Possible, but not likely. Should be possible to modify them. I'd say Jesse @ High Angle Drive-line would be the place to start for that. He supplied me with some NP241 t/c output flanges that had toyota patterns in them.
 
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My vote would be D60 as well. Lots of capacity and easy to find. Parts are cheap and everywhere.
 
4.30 gear ratio is a requirement, assuming the front is indeed a 4.30. That rules out the 14 bolt axle.
 
From what I gather by playing with the bearings chosen you can install those wheel hubs on a D60. I have not done it, so I don't know the details.
 
70-72" has to be a mis-calc, or not taking wheel specs into consideration when looking at track width.

Sorry for my slow response here, got distracted... but yeah - I think it's 70 WMS to WMS... the outside edge of the rim to the outside edge of the rim is 79", inside edge of the wheel well to inside edge of the wheel well is 80". The current wheels that are on there tuck just inside the wheel well when they flex. Take a 16x8 0 offset wheel, and I'm at 71, skim another inch off of there so that I have a bit more room for knobs and bulge on a larger AT tire, and I've got a big wide axle. Am I missing anything?

I'd like to place the wheels where the outside pair of the existing dually wheels are - I have the space - they won't stick out and although the handling in theory will be different (the rear track increases by five or six inches if measured from wheel center of to wheel "center" of the dually pair), who can even say if it'll be better or worse? It's not like this thing is a ballerina to begin with...
 
Sorry for my slow response here, got distracted... but yeah - I think it's 70 WMS to WMS... the outside edge of the rim to the outside edge of the rim is 79", inside edge of the wheel well to inside edge of the wheel well is 80". The current wheels that are on there tuck just inside the wheel well when they flex. Take a 16x8 0 offset wheel, and I'm at 71, skim another inch off of there so that I have a bit more room for knobs and bulge on a larger AT tire, and I've got a big wide axle. Am I missing anything?

I'd like to place the wheels where the outside pair of the existing dually wheels are - I have the space - they won't stick out and although the handling in theory will be different (the rear track increases by five or six inches if measured from wheel center of to wheel "center" of the dually pair), who can even say if it'll be better or worse? It's not like this thing is a ballerina to begin with...

Still waiting on pics of this thing.... :flipoff2:
 
At this point I’m almost enjoying collecting the :flipoff2: but here ya go
E87949A5-795A-4993-8F0B-D1BC0A6B5D46.jpeg
 
The truck cab is near-mint, which is awesome. The RV interior is showing its age but still in pretty good shape. Working though some stuff with the plumbing right now.
 
I'd like to place the wheels where the outside pair of the existing dually wheels are

Right. This is what wasn't clear to me before. Your math isn't wrong.

I don't think you need to do this. If you want, you can buy a custom axle housing to do what you want, but you can get almost equal stability from a standard width 3/4 or 1t axle (chev/ferd/dodge). You'd only be about an inch and a half narrower *per side* than where you are now, with dramatically less expense.
 
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@GLTHFJ60 you’re not wrong. Looks like lots of 4.30 options in Sterling 10.5, factory Dana, AAM11.5 etc and then going to a machine shop for the conversion to 6 lug. Pretty good is much cheaper than perfect I bet...

Thank you for the wisdom!

:geek: :steer:
 
Hes not buying a dually

No, he HAS one. That wouldn't make his current wheels have an offset 0, it would be a 0 backspacing... If the current wheels are 8" wide and you measured from the outside wheel surface to outside wheel surface, you would need to take away the width of 2 wheels (16") from the measurement to get the WMS - WMS.
 
The 08+ Tundra has a beefy 10.5 and is usually found stock with a 4.30. I think it's around 66".
You'd be dealing with 5 lugs to convert, 17" wheels to clear the drums and a pinion flange modification
at the least.
There's also a 9.5 found in the 08+ Tundra 4.7 V8, 4.6 V8, and 4.0l V6 but I don't know the specs on those
 
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No, he HAS one. That wouldn't make his current wheels have an offset 0, it would be a 0 backspacing... If the current wheels are 8" wide and you measured from the outside wheel surface to outside wheel surface, you would need to take away the width of 2 wheels (16") from the measurement to get the WMS - WMS.

The OP wants to convert from DRW to SRW while maintaining the same track width. To do that, you measure the track width (not WMS-WMS) and figure out from your wheel dimensions what WMS axle you need. That's how he came up with ~70" WMS.
 

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