Builds 4Door FJ40 Build (FZJ40) (1 Viewer)

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Jul 2, 2013
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Location
San Jose
I am hoping to document my FZJ40 buildout, more importantly I am going to need tons of advice. Guessing this is the right place. I started down this path because its too hard to get two adults and two kids in my FJ40 plus parts, booze, ice etc and do any sort of real wheeling.

So far I purchased a 1996 FZJ80 with lifter noise which also ended up having a blown head gasket. So I scrapped the stock drive train option, I cant remember why now. So I purchased a LS 4.8 engine from Tilden. I went with the 4.8 because I currently have the 95 TBI in my other FJ40 and seems to have plenty of power and the specs on the 4.8 were better so why not save some $ and save gas. I also purchased a 94 GM NV4500 used from a wrecking yard in the mid west. I have had good success with used transmissions (SM420 and SM465) so I am rolling the dice again hoping not to rebuild it.

Yesterday I ordered the stock width 4 door FJ40 tub that fits on to a FZJ80 Frame (Part# 8020). I am still looking for a stock steel cowl & windshield to use. I opted for the "drop box" storage option (Part#8010)

Current Questions...


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HOw about keeping one of the best parts of the 80... the AWD. You can adapt the nv4500 to the HF2AV. You’d have to swap the output shaft but I feel like it would be a great setup for you.
 
How about keeping one of the best parts of the 80... the AWD. You can adapt the nv4500 to the HF2AV. You’d have to swap the output shaft but I feel like it would be a great setup for you.
Do you know how to adapt it? AA said they do not have an adapter. The guy at Duiser said I would need to a dodge shaft and have it modified which at the time seemed complicated, I also heard he is hard to pin down and get parts in any reasonable time frame. You know what good point... I will contact him again and see if I can get a timeline and price. Hopefully he can clear his good name :)
 
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This is exactly what I want to do.
Fj60 Tcase is a great option since it will work with the 80 rear axle offset. Marlin is working on 4 to1 gears I hear.

Have you seen this pic?
2014-09-29-14-17-40-1.jpg
 
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FJ-UTe-Desert-Pic-TCT-Magazine.jpg


:drool
 
This is exactly what I want to do.
Fj60 Tcase is a great option since it will work with the 80 rear axle offset. Marlin is working on 4 to1 gears I hear.

Have you seen this pic?
View attachment 1596078

That is a cool pic, I have not seen that before. I also read your post in the "if I was going to start..." about lift. I have been kicking around the idea of the J springs setup but I think I need to wait to see the tub on the frame to see what the clearance looks like before buying anything. I'm also unsure on the weight, I assume since 60% of the body is going to be aluminum I and I probably dropped 800 lbs or so of at the metal recycler, maybe I do not need heavy duty springs of any sort. Your suggestion about the 1" spacer and 1" body lift seems like a good solution. I plan on running 35's or 36's max. I have 36" TSL's on my current FJ40 and am happy with the ground clearance, not the ride \ vibration on the freeway but happy with the trail performance.
 
What is the point of using the 80 chassis at this point? If it was me I would have aqualu build a stretched 40 4 door frame rather than a 80 series frame and use a 4 door body for the 40 frame. And then weld the 80 suspension to that frame. The 80 frame has funky dimensions for a 40 and it always looks a little off in the end when people use the 80 chassis. The front axle ends up being set back too far and kills the look.
 
If you cut n splice the frame properly it should avoid that part. Not sure how frame couldnt be shortened. 112 to 90"
IIRC. There are a few out there that look odd but not sure i'd place that blame on the frame yet.

Oh and it might have to do with that pesky budget $. Seems like you could shorten a frame cheaper than lengthening one and adding non standard suspension parts.

Plus. Coils :)
 
Seems like a cool build, I have daydreamed a few times on this myself.
 
A 45 is way closer in wheelbase. Just sayin' ;)

Oh yeah. Kids. Sorry bout that.
 
If you cut n splice the frame properly it should avoid that part. Not sure how frame couldnt be shortened. 112 to 90"
IIRC. There are a few out there that look odd but not sure i'd place that blame on the frame yet.

Oh and it might have to do with that pesky budget $. Seems like you could shorten a frame cheaper than lengthening one and adding non standard suspension parts.

Plus. Coils :)
The front cross member in relation to a 40 front cross member is mainly what throws it off. The front axle has to slide forward a couple inches in order to sit right in the front fenders. To do that you have to cut off the front cross member and move it, cut off the suspension links and move them forward, as well as the steering box, coil buckets, and sway bar brackets. Probably cheaper to do but fairly labor intensive, and few go that far and just slap the body on and live with the axle sitting weird in the front fender opening. Typical example:
4ff53e0a6d07913ccf2b3c45c51d175d--toyota-rav-auto-toyota.jpg

This is stock location:
Toyota-FJ-19.jpg
 
I am hoping to document my FZJ40 buildout, more importantly I am going to need tons of advice. Guessing this is the right place. I started down this path because its too hard to get two adults and two kids in my FJ40 plus parts, booze, ice etc and do any sort of real wheeling.

So far I purchased a 1996 FZJ80 with lifter noise which also ended up having a blown head gasket. So I scrapped the stock drive train option, I cant remember why now. So I purchased a LS 4.8 engine from Tilden. I went with the 4.8 because I currently have the 95 TBI in my other FJ40 and seems to have plenty of power and the specs on the 4.8 were better so why not save some $ and save gas. I also purchased a 94 GM NV4500 used from a wrecking yard in the mid west. I have had good success with used transmissions (SM420 and SM465) so I am rolling the dice again hoping not to rebuild it.

Yesterday I ordered the stock width 4 door FJ40 tub that fits on to a FZJ80 Frame (Part# 8020). I am still looking for a stock steel cowl & windshield to use. I opted for the "drop box" storage option (Part#8010)

Current Questions...
Transfer - A friend suggested using a FJ60 Split case and then putting new in gears. But it seems like after getting a case, machining the case to fit the gears, buying the gears and NV4500 adapters I might as well buy an atlas case. I heard that you can I can swap the GM tail housing for a dodge tail housing and bolt up directly. If you are reading this and have a better option please tell me.

More to come

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This is gonna be sweet! I like the way your builder brain is going on this. If Toyota would build something like this they could tap into that jk market that jeep rules supreme. Instead we got the disappointment red headed step child piece of crap fj cruiser. What a let down that was.
 
The 80 series chassis is the going to be the frame work of choice more so in the future than ever before, they have bottomed out in price & are a solid foundation for a custom build just like this one. As far as the weight & stock coils there are bunches of low height options out there now days. I agree the front axle forward issue, it does need to be addressed via body mounting or pushing the axle forward. The OP has already purchased the body or is on order??? I would strongly get with is it Aquala & get that ironed out before they start welding that bad boy up.

I'm looking forward to watching this build go forward...

This is not a 4 door build but a lot can be learned from this awesome thread.
Kula's FJ220 build - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
2468329d1481823076-kulas-fj220-build-dsc_0020.jpg
 
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From what I understand, for the 2-door bodies, like above, the cowl location relative to the front axle maintains stock FJ40 positioning. The 4-door bodies move the cowl 3 inches forward from that, so closer to the front wheel.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the front tire placement. I think this will be a problem for me dice I do like the 40 look. My current 40 has the front spring direction switch which moved the axle /tire 3” forward. That made a world of difference in the approach angle.

Moving all of the steering front suspension components forward looks like a big task. I am one of the best grinders in the US but not the best with math and a tape measure. I assume if I did go that route the measurements need to be pretty close to perfect?

I am picking up a 72 cowl this weekend and hopefully the aqualu 4 door tub shows up soon after that. I guess I just need to mock it up and see what it looks like.
 
The front cross member in relation to a 40 front cross member is mainly what throws it off. The front axle has to slide forward a couple inches in order to sit right in the front fenders. To do that you have to cut off the front cross member and move it, cut off the suspension links and move them forward, as well as the steering box, coil buckets, and sway bar brackets. Probably cheaper to do but fairly labor intensive, and few go that far and just slap the body on and live with the axle sitting weird in the front fender opening. Typical example:
4ff53e0a6d07913ccf2b3c45c51d175d--toyota-rav-auto-toyota.jpg

This is stock location:
Toyota-FJ-19.jpg
Wow! Off topic that blue 40 I built over 15 years ago and musho bought it and flipped it for a ton of money. Sorry for the off topic...
 
Thanks for the heads up on the front tire placement. I think this will be a problem for me dice I do like the 40 look. My current 40 has the front spring direction switch which moved the axle /tire 3” forward. That made a world of difference in the approach angle.

Moving all of the steering front suspension components forward looks like a big task. I am one of the best grinders in the US but not the best with math and a tape measure. I assume if I did go that route the measurements need to be pretty close to perfect?

I am picking up a 72 cowl this weekend and hopefully the aqualu 4 door tub shows up soon after that. I guess I just need to mock it up and see what it looks like.
You would probably want it all within 1/16 of an inch as far as accuracy.
 

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