Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ

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Yeah that thread appears to be gone. I'm guessing that along with the Mods the OP has the option to delete the thread. I know it works that way on other forums, just not sure on this one. I initially was hoping for a response, but at this point it's moot. Duiser was selling their 4BT converted 80 with the NV4500 on Ebay. I had the wife convinced to let me bid on it. I'm very glad I discovered this thread and other postings by Phil. Those postings coupled with the fact the Duiser (Shawn) was being a little vague when asked about more photos/details convinced me to not touch that thing with a 10 foot pole. My plan was to hopefully fly out to Oregon to buy it and drive it home 2500 miles. Guess I'll just have to talk her into letting me build my own.
 
I just checked my watched threads, which showed that one yesterday and not today. Seems that it has been deleted... Maybe I stepped on the toes of the wrong person. Should I be watching my back and avoid dark allyways from here on out? :oops:

Funny thing is that I told the wife, who doesn't want me starting yet another project, that this one will be different since it was done by a reputable shop. Of course I knew that saying it would be different was a bit of a stretch, but I didn't really think that I would have the trans out and have to helicoil the crank in the first 2 weeks of ownership simply because the reputable shop can't measure 8 very critical bolts and didn't take the time to notch the oil pan so the axle could move more than an inch...

-Phil
 
A mod probably did not delete it and it was probably deleted by the original poster.

Mods generally do not delete threads here on MUD because of situations like this. They usually let it stay for technical information.

I should also further state that I have nor any other vendor on MUD that I know of has EVER received any preferential treatment from any of the mods or from Woody.

I have also never seen mods protecting vendors. Ever.
 
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Sad to see that it has come to this... You'd think the builder would reach out and say "hey let me fix what isn't right". At least that's how I roll.. On a higher note were you able to get ahold of anyone about the TC?
 
Ya, truly not on a witch hunt, but I can absolutely see why Duiser just went away rather than confronting it. These are pretty tough things to help resolve over the phone or dropping some bits in a box with a gift certificate. I'll be real bummed if the bottom end of the motor needs freshened from the wobbly FW. It's not a new vehicle, I get that. A shop should be and is held to a different standard of assembly than if it were just thrown together in someone's garage.

Rock- Got turned down by two shops on building us a BA billet converter-- at "any" quantity-- so that rules out a group buy or something similar from those shops... I have a few more lines in the water as well. Figure it can't hurt to ask before going down the path more commonly traveled;)

I should probably start a new thread rather than continuing the muddy moon's thread... A thread that can't get deleted witht he good and the bad of this :D

I will say this, after I got the trans computer sorted and the "pump turned up" this was one BA truck on the highway prior to this FW issue. Power for days and smoooooth. Looking forward to getting back to that.

-Phil
 
Could they do anything for the converter? What about suncoast?
 
Just spoke with Rusty at TCS. He said get a converter over to him to check out. If he can't do anything there is no charge. But seems confident he can build a billet low stall converter.

http://www.tcsperformance.com/
 
I have had Anjo Machine in Salt Lake City, UT build a converter or two, and as long as you talk with Tom (and request that he does the work) you should have good results. I'm not sure if he can help with your situation, but it's worth a call. (801) 972-1605.

Also, a good friend (and reputable transmission builder) recommended talking to Gonzo at Speedo - 801-330-8363.
 
I don't mind there will be great tech wrapped around your fixes upgrades will pave the way for many hopefully.
 
Yes, I remember seeing those questions from Phil.

mryanangel said:
No not that one. It was called "Cummins 6bt Conversion" I just got an email with an update to that thread by @turbophil asking some very valid questions.

I am getting tired of the moderators deleting posts and threads. It seems as though any post that is not in favor of a supporting vendor gets promptly deleted, regardless of the value that post/thread may be to the Landcruiser community.

The below was in the email alert I am referring to.

mryanangel, turbophil replied to a thread you are watching at IH8MUD Forum.

Cummins 6bt Conversion

Duiser Offroad
NO THERE IS NOT MORE TO "IT".
pKLAA5c8P5r8EC2mDzvOI3rD49QjnKxEisAkji2v13SvxtiydUvA3CHwg9FDUNcGs9l2xamR8fexA4IZyUiVZA_YcOY1B4fJ-ZDkjWandpB0Zi4OowrwLkY=s0-d-e1-ft





NO THERE ARE NO KNOWN ISSUES WITH THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. ITS GOOD TO GO, AWESOME, AND VERY CAPABLE.
pKLAA5c8P5r8EC2mDzvOI3rD49QjnKxEisAkji2v13SvxtiydUvA3CHwg9FDUNcGs9l2xamR8fexA4IZyUiVZA_YcOY1B4fJ-ZDkjWandpB0Zi4OowrwLkY=s0-d-e1-ft


IF YOU WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THE AUTO CONVERSION, WATCH AND READ ABOUT THE PREDATOR AND OR THE LEXUS. LOTS OF TEST DRIVING OF THE LEXUS IN REAL WORLD CONDITIONS AND THE PREDATOR WAS RALLIED HARD.
Embedded Media

Embedded Media




BUT LET ME EXPAND, WE DISCOVERED THAT WE PREFER MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, GRANNY LOW GEAR, MECHANICAL SIMPLICITY, AND 2WD/ 4WD TRANSFER CASES. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN FOR YOU, NOTHING. KEEPING THE AUTO AND USING THE KIT IS CHEAPER AND EASIER ......NO CONSPIRACIES HERE @cjmoon
fwysrX1XUaSOlaB5P4sBra01JBFqgq8YlE3xTnppsUa1xmTAGcSsFxFb8T4CzAHjHMEfI3reU7PrdiqnNEGX4tvMjvQRdh0iCQJVnsXbUsi6vDoZRnL8Cxk=s0-d-e1-ft

Just curious, when you built the Lexus in the video above, how did you come to the bolt length chosen to secure the flywheel to the BT crank? I measured 50mm long bolt and the total depth of the hold was 47mm or so...Also curious why you had the torque converter locking up in 3rd, as this resulted in a locked torque converter during the 3-4 gear shift--- not a good thing. Also interested in knowing if the reason you put a 2" lift on the Lexus was due to the connecting link hitting the oil pan. Was there a reason you didn't notch the oil pan? Seems there was sufficient contact of the oil pan and connecting link to bend the connecting link downward to create a smile in it. While the connecting link may be smiling, I'm not.

thx-

Phil
Click to expand...
 
Duiser Offroad said:
The new owner of the lexus is welcome to contact us. sales@duiser.com :cheers:
Click to expand...

Thanks Duiser. Although I'm not sure what to do with that offer just yet. So far so good in fixing stuff, as I haven't ran into anything that has required much external expertise just yet... It's really just been cleaning up stuff that was installed incorrectly, which is taking a LOT of work. If you have a new flex plate in stock, that could be helpful as the one that came off the motor wasn't perfectly true. I can straighten if not. Runout may not be a huge deal on that part anyway. My real concern at this point is the motor. If it has failed due to a 40lb flywheel wobbling about, then I will have a better idea of what visit with you about.

-Phil
 
Update. I tapped the crank threads and heli-coiled the damaged ones and reinstalled the FW for a tick-over and listen session. Good news is the knock is substantially less! Bad news is that less knock is still knock:(

Well we know we're on the right track now.

Pull the pan. It needed to happen anyway to clearance it. Learned some new things. As mentioned prior, Duiser didn't clearance the pan for the connecting link. This resulted in the connecting link hitting the pan hard enough to "smile" the connecting link and bend the pan a good bit. Turns out the oil pick-up is directly above the oil pick-up. When the pan was bent, it smashed against the oil pick-up resulting in a good bit of the oil supply being blocked from the pick-up! Oops! lol

I also pulled the thrust bearing (part of one of the #6 main bearing). It was broke into 3 pieces. It's a 3 piece bearing in assembly and then brought together, however it was beat to hell and back which broke into 3 pieces again. I think I found my huckleberry! Obviously the loose FW caused this. The mains and rods look fine otherwise. I'm here, so I'll replace the rod bearings since it's easy and I have a good discount with Calico for coated bearings like we use on the road race motors.

A few pics below. I'll update the 6BT build thread as well...

-Phil

Stock Pick-up Location

Stock Pick-up Location

  • Media owner turbophil
  • Date added
This will get moved in the 6BT swap
Pickup hitting pan

Pickup hitting pan

  • Media owner turbophil
  • Date added
Connecting link hit the pan causing the pick-up to contact the pan and block a good portion of...
 
I ordered clevite bearings with the telfon/moly coating from Calico that we use in the race motors for a little bit of added protection (probably overkill and not needed, but why not). They will be here Tuesday. I was happy to see that my 6BT is the machined rod rather than the later fractured version. Both rods and mains are standard spec and appear to be OE.

Duiser, you're welcome to chip in on the bearing bill. If you would like to, please send me a PM and we can sort out payment...

Thanks,

Phil
 
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