460 on 35's

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I did distance travelled divided by gallons used.
That's probably the most accurate for MPG. Fill up your tank, drive with a GPS mileage tracker app of some kind to give an accurate miles traveled, then when you get low on fuel, fill again. Note the gallons to refill your tank and divide mileage you just traveled by the gallons you just added! Easy peasy!
A few things to consider:
  • Just how full you fill your tank, e.g. keep clicking on the lever after it trips to squeeze more in your tank?? Or just shut off the pump after the first time the lever trips? Be consistent with your your fill up's when doing this.
  • I don't think all gas pumps trip their handles at the same level, so you may be a little off on your fills. Don't know for sure or by how much but I imagine every pump will trip at a slightly different level.
  • The more you empty your tank driving, even past the empty warning light, the more gas you have to refill, thus giving you a higher number (the divisor) much more accurate reading of your mileage (dividend) when you divide your miles driven by your gallons consumed.
Apologies for the redundancy of your post CaptRussia253, I just wanted to extrapolate on it a wee bit more.
 
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So are rear bumpstop drops needed for 35's in addition to a BMC up front? This is a 32.4" (275/70/17) stuffed. Having a hard time seeing another 1.25" on either side clearing.

Seriously looking at the 35x10.50 or 35x11.50 size, but wondering if I'll have to go taller lift (2" currently), bumpstops, or ? additional mods.
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So are rear bumpstop drops needed for 35's in addition to a BMC up front? This is a 32.4" (275/70/17) stuffed. Having a hard time seeing another 1.25" on either side clearing.

Seriously looking at the 35x10.50 or 35x11.50 size, but wondering if I'll have to go taller lift (2" currently), bumpstops, or ? additional mods.
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Going with a wider tire will absolutely give you far more issues than a narrower tire, unless you're using wheel spacers and pushing them out a wee bit.
Don't mean to rain on your parade, but I seriously doubt that a 2" lift will be enough for 35" tires unless you don't ever take it off pavement.
I have 2.5" suspension lift, pounded the heck out of the pinch welds, removed all the front fender liners, at lock-to-lock I still have slight rubbing with 315/70R17's.
 
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Going with a wider tire will absolutely give you far more issues than a narrower tire, unless you're using wheel spacers and pushing them out a wee bit.
Don't mean to rain on your parade, but I seriously doubt that a 2" lift will be enough for 35" tires unless you don't ever take it off pavement.
I have 2.5" suspension lift, pounded the heck out of the pinch welds, removed all the front fender liners, at lock-to-lock I still have slight rubbing with 315/70R17's.
What are your wheel specs? I have the same size tire on a 17x9, -12 offset and I had to do a super aggressive BMC and all the other stuff you did but with zero rub anywhere under full compression and lock to lock.

My tires also measure big for their size.
 
I would definitely get larger/longer bump stops front and rear to not allow the tire to get too far in the fender.

I only rub at full lock in reverse on the corner of my body mount chop but will get a relocate kit welded in place to get maximum clearance. But I haven't flexed enough to know for sure. I too smashed the hell out of the pinch weld and cut plastic of the inner fenders.
 
What are your wheel specs? I have the same size tire on a 17x9, -12 offset and I had to do a super aggressive BMC and all the other stuff you did but with zero rub anywhere under full compression and lock to lock.

My tires also measure big for their size.
These are the wheels I have: ICON Six Speed 17" Wheel Bronze Finish (5 quantity) ICON-1417858347BR
This is just a website that has the spec's, I didn't purchase them from here. https://www.autoanything.com/wheels-rims/77A16749A6551674.aspx
 
I think I read that -10 offset is the perfect wheel for us.

The more I drive my GX the more I’m thinking I don’t need gears. I’ve been up the mountain pass a dozen times and took trips to Oregon, eastern Wa, the coast, and no issues. I think this throttle controller is a solid investment.

I’ll most likely still get nitro 4.88s to make my transmission happy, but as for the V8 I’m sure it can handle 37s all day 😆. So if anyone is worried their GX will be gutless without a regear I can tell you honestly it still pulls hard.
 
Did another refill yesterday and averaged 15.6 mpg with the 35s.

Ordering 4.88 gears next month. Hopefully that’ll increase 1+mpg and some power back.
Jut keep rolling down hill and the MPG's will keep getting better!!
 
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Honestly I don’t care too much about mpg. I knew it would be low with a V8 and 35s. But I’m here to try new things with the GX and hopefully give some feedback to new owners that are thinking about doing the same.
In case folks don't want to go the gear route, looks like Harrop Performance just supercharged the 4.6L with a TVS1900. Depending on the tune the supercharger would arguably do more for FE at those lower BSFC points ; sounds like the tune is still ongoing. Not sure on availability, but I would assume a formal debut within the year.
 
In case folks don't want to go the gear route, looks like Harrop Performance just supercharged the 4.6L with a TVS1900. Depending on the tune the supercharger would arguably do more for FE at those lower BSFC points ; sounds like the tune is still ongoing. Not sure on availability, but I would assume a formal debut within the year.

So this is an actual prototype install with something Harrop is bringing to the US market? I thought this was just SDHQ customizing the Australian kit made for the 1URJ200.
 
So this is an actual prototype install with something Harrop is bringing to the US market? I thought this was just SDHQ customizing the Australian kit made for the 1URJ200.
You might be right about that. Naturally I assumed it was going to be widely available in the US. But tuning aside it looks to be plug and play, EGR relocated not deleted, etc. I did find the direct kit off Harrop and it is for 1UR-FE with a pending CARB approval for a full tune kit. TVS1900 | 1UR-FE | LC200 - https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/tvs1900-1ur-fe-lc200
 
You might be right about that. Naturally I assumed it was going to be widely available in the US. But tuning aside it looks to be plug and play, EGR relocated not deleted, etc. I did find the direct kit off Harrop and it is for 1UR-FE with a pending CARB approval for a full tune kit. TVS1900 | 1UR-FE | LC200 - https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/tvs1900-1ur-fe-lc200
Yeah that’s the kit that’s been discussed here from time to time… seems like SDHQ or one of their customers decided to take the plunge and buy the kit and then sort out the egr and any other compatibility issues.

Would also require a custom tune with VF Tuner, which is probably the biggest hurdle.
 
Yeah that’s the kit that’s been discussed here from time to time… seems like SDHQ or one of their customers decided to take the plunge and buy the kit and then sort out the egr and any other compatibility issues.

Would also require a custom tune with VF Tuner, which is probably the biggest hurdle.
Their instructions show that it is for NA market and are pending CARB approval for a compliant tune, so pretty sure they are trying to bring it to US. Regardless tuning is not too large of a hurdle with vehicle dyno time and the VF tuner suite. I would not be surprised if VF added a 460 supercharger tune soon. Just food for thought for those of us that are mechanically inclined and aren't in a rush to add gears for 35's.
 
In case folks don't want to go the gear route...
Just speculating, but I WOULD bet my lunch money on it, that people don't go with gears because of the cost. Not just of the gears, but because you're virtually compelled to put some lockers in there "while you're in there". But I'd bet that gears and lockers are still way cheaper than a supercharger and tune.
 
Yes. It seems generally to cost somewhere in the low 5 figures ($$,$$$) to supercharge after all is said and done, where it is in the low-mid 4 figures ($,$$$) for gears and lockers.
 

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