460 on 35's

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I was going to pull the trigger on 285/70/17s until I saw this thread LOL. These are some seriously nice rigs on here!

Questions for the gurus here, my situation is below;

  • I'm going for a 2.5 inch (level) lift with Dobinsons IMS and UCAs from Treaty OR
  • The wheels I like however are 17x9s and only come in -28 offset.
Looks like when going to bigger wheels you gents are running either 0 or right around -10 offset? Will the -28 dramatically increase the amount of BMC and cutting? Is it even possible to run 305s with that offset?

For now, my purpose is just off-road trails/passes, camping, not really any heavy wheeling/crawling, the size choice is just aesthetics, or is it better perhaps go with a size closer to 34s?

Thanks all!
 
I was going to pull the trigger on 285/70/17s until I saw this thread LOL. These are some seriously nice rigs on here!

Questions for the gurus here, my situation is below;

  • I'm going for a 2.5 inch (level) lift with Dobinsons IMS and UCAs from Treaty OR
  • The wheels I like however are 17x9s and only come in -28 offset.
Looks like when going to bigger wheels you gents are running either 0 or right around -10 offset? Will the -28 dramatically increase the amount of BMC and cutting? Is it even possible to run 305s with that offset?

For now, my purpose is just off-road trails/passes, camping, not really any heavy wheeling/crawling, the size choice is just aesthetics, or is it better perhaps go with a size closer to 34s?

Thanks all!

I’d stick with a 33-34”. The width and the offset will rub like a mofo.
 
I’d stick with a 33-34”. The width and the offset will rub like a mofo.
Now looking for an alternative wheel with 0 offset, I really liked the Summit Off-Road Dakkars, but as mentioned the offset is aggressive.

The shop I'm going with for the installation strongly advised the same.

Thanks!
 
I've decided to go with 315/70r17. I am currently running FJ Cruiser wheels that have 15mm offset, is this going to work with a 2.5" lift?
 
I'm running the same size tire with these wheels:
With a 3" lift BMC. I also removed the inner fender liner and pounded the pinch weld.
AND I'm still getting some rubbing. I'm going to try have the front aligned to see if they can shift the control arms a wee bit forward.
 
I'm running the same size tire with these wheels:
With a 3" lift BMC. I also removed the inner fender liner and pounded the pinch weld.
AND I'm still getting some rubbing. I'm going to try have the front aligned to see if they can shift the control arms a wee bit forward.
Which ones, the zero offset?

Nice looking wheels, but I am hoping to avoid adding $1,600 to what is already an expensive proposition with gears, lockers, bumpers, tire carrier. But we'll see.
 
Which ones, the zero offset?

Nice looking wheels, but I am hoping to avoid adding $1,600 to what is already an expensive proposition with gears, lockers, bumpers, tire carrier. But we'll see.
1417858347BR Rim Size:
17x8.50"
Bolt Pattern:
6x5.5
Backspace:
4.750"
Offset:
0mm
Bore:
108mm
Load:
2500 lbs
Weight:
30 lbs
 
Still looking for opinions on using +15mm offset wheels with 315/70r17s. Would save the cost of new wheels if I could continue to use the FJ wheels.
 
I’ve been following this thread for awhile trying to make my own decision and have a few questions. I’m currently on 285/70/17s, scs ray 10 17x8.5 -10 offset wheels, with a 3” dobinsons MRR, bumpers, sliders, drawers, and I’m about to throw in an Eaton Elocker and regear to 4.88s. Those of you running 315/70/17s can you obtain full articulation with an aggressive BMC and hammering the s*** out of the pinch welds? And do you come close to contacting the washer tank on full lock(would be even more helpful if you have a 3pump)? Or does it seem like 285/75 is the optimal tire size on 17s? Looking at KO2s for tires even though I’ve had a terrible time keeping my current ones balanced.
 
Try a 35x11.50r17. Toyo and maxxis makes a great tire in that size. It’s the width that makes it difficult to fully clear these 35s so going narrow helps. I still find myself rub but I haven’t done a body mount relocation yet.
 
With my zero offset wheels and 315/70R17, YES I get rubbing!
I've done the BMC, 3" suspension lift, pounded the snot out of the pinch welds, tore out all the black inner fender liner and still get some rubbing on the back of my front fenders and a little on my rear fenders.
Note: I have not had a chance to do full compression at lock-to-lock, so I'm getting this rubbing when in reverse and when the wheel is turned going into driveways. I'm thinking of getting it aligned and see if the shop can move my camber forward just a wee bit to get my control arms moved forward. I think I only need about 1/4" or so of space.
 
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With my zero offset wheels and 315/70R17, YES I get rubbing!
I've done the BMC, 3" suspension lift, pounded the snot out of the pinch welds, tore out all the black inner fender liner and still get some rubbing on the back of my front fenders and a little on my rear fenders.
Note: I have not had a chance to do full compression at lock-to-lock, so I'm getting this rubbing when in reverse and when the wheel is turned going into driveways. I'm thinking of getting it aligned and see if they shop can move my camber forward just a wee bit to get my control arms moved forward. I think I only need about 1/4" or so of space.
I think you can move them up to a half inch forward.
 
What Molle panel is that on the back, and side bags on the tire? Other then the molle panel, does the rear window still open with the 35's and JW tire carrier?
The Molle Panel is the small JW panel with a custom bracket on top. Without the molle panel, the window still clears with the 35.
The tire bag and propane bag are both from Adventure Trail Gear.
 
I did some more adjustments to reduce rubbing.
On the front, I changed my Camburg UCA's from high castor back to low castor settings, and adjusted the caster on the LCA. I'm currently at 6.1*
I changed my front wheel spacers from .75" to a 1.25" spidertrax. I did this because my tires were hitting the UCA when turning.
I trimmed the CBI bumper 3/4". In the coming weeks I will do a CMR (still rubbing the chopped mount.
On the rear, I adjusted the links 3/4" longer, and trimmed the Ronin Metal Bash Bar. For now, I haven't changed the wheel spacer.
Now it passes the driveway challenge, I need to get it off-road soon.
 
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Did a pre-run of Calico this past weekend for an upcoming trail run with out club, and I was always cringing every time my tires rubbed on my fenders.
I really need to get an alignment and have them move the wheels forward a wee bit.
 
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My 33s are vibrating the hell out of me so I'm finally ready to get new tires. I'm running a 2.5" IMS lift with SPC UCAs and plan on going 305/70/r17 this time. I'll need to cut some more on my fender liner but my front / rear bumpers have already been trimmed quite a bit. Hoping the narrower tire will help offset the height difference.
 
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View attachment 3046480

My 33s are vibrating the hell out of me so I'm finally ready to get new tires. I'm running a 2.5" IMS lift with SPC UCAs and plan on going 305/70/r17 this time. I'll need to cut some more on my fender liner but my front / rear bumpers have already been trimmed quite a bit. Hoping the narrower tire will help offset the height difference.
You might want to check out a 285/75r17 in a toyo. I personally don't have them but planning for those as my next tire since they are a bit narrower and come in a C rating so should be a buy more comfortable. They are a 34 though, not a 35.
 

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