40s on yota axles? (1 Viewer)

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Dec 19, 2006
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Amherst NH
Built 60 front,, 80 FF rear. Anyone run into breakage with 40" tires? longfields good to 39, why not 40? Manual trans Vortech 5.7. Mild weighted fj40. Northeast wheeling= never that dry. Trepadors.
 
When you say built 60 front what does that mean?
there's a guy on bangshift that writes the same way - now I'm wondering if it's a New England thing.

My guess, though, is he build a FJ60 front end and used a FJ80 rear and is wondering why the manufacturer of his front axle recommends up to 39 inch tire and not 40s. As for his question, I've no experience either direct or by others on those axles - so no opinion.
 
Why not .. it's all about your right foot ..

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got one front ARB locker on my resume .. ( old model )
 
No six shooter knuckles yet. Not sure they will work on a fj60 front axle. Thought I'd wait until something broke. Hasn't happened yet, at least axle wise. Probably going to need hydro assist steering to turn these in the rocks. Longfield shafts inner and outer, ifs front hubs with chromo parts, Knuckle braces. Just trying to feel out who still runs yota axles with 40" tires and how they get along.
 
Behemoth60 ran 40s on his BJ74 for a few years. Both housings are bent now. I would make sure everything is well trussed.
 
I'm going to be moving in the same direction. 60 front trussed and braced with Longfields and hub gears. I don't have 6 shooters, but ARP knuckle studs and Marlin high steer. I figure if I check torque on the important things before riding I should be good. I will be installing a FF 80 rear and it will be trussed. I will not go above 36s until I have my TPI 350, TH350 and dual mini cases in.

I will be watching this thread to see what the general consensus is.
 
I run a built FJ60 axle in the front but gave up a long time ago on the rear and went with a narrowed/shaved 14 bolt. Older 39" Red Labels - have a few friends who run the same tire or the 40" blue labels without having done as much to the front axle and they've been fine in moderate wheeling.

The front is similar to what others posted above: FJ60 housing, widened with a sleeve on the pssgr. side, cut and turned/SOA with knuckle gussets, 6 shooter knuckles with FJ60 studs/hardware, 4x4 labs high steer with tie rod behind the axle, 30 spline Longs, chroyo'd 4.56's, chromo hub gears, modified hubs for 6 pins, etc. Only ongoing issues are in the bearing hubs (even with 6 dowels will still eventually wallow out the dowel holes - think drilling out the OEM studs and running larger bolts would help), deformed the ASCO hub body, and broke a few of the ASCO guts, forget which - but certain it wasn't the chromo drive parts).

Only problem with the rear has been running a High Angle Toyota flange on the 14 bolt - the Toyota mini-truck bolts aren't big enough. Don't break them, but do replace them on occasion.
 
P.S. Linking the rear or dropping a bit of weight would make a huge difference.
 
I run 42 inch pitbulls on my samurai buggy, I run fj80 axles but ran fj60 axles before that. I never broke an axle but that's on a very light rig with a 1.6 4 cyl (although turboed and dual cases at ~11:1)

I think you can get away with a lot of you are gentle with the gas. However it gets really hard to restrain when you know you just need a little more throttle or some momentum to clear an obstacle and that when you either break something or thank yourself for using beefier parts!
 

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